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Old Mar 27, 2014, 12:15 PM
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Deep cycle battery

I bought 2 Exide 24EV, they were $69 ea. with the Exide $10 rebate which runs to 8/1/14. Exide does not publish specs but these are marked 120 minutes reserve capacity [at 25 amps which is an honest 50 A-H]. They are group 24, about 45 pounds. Exide is a good brand and I suspect they don't want to participate in the spec game. I do plan to limit my draw to 25 - 30A and charging to 10A. The typical trolling fisherman is drawing 15 - 20A. These are a good way to store power but they are not designed for high amps out or in. I need to get a float charger.
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Old Mar 27, 2014, 06:06 PM
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Terminals

Interesting thing, the Pos terminal is 3/8" and neg is 5/16", ended up making 3 trips getting the SS wing nuts. I just ordered a clamp-on DC ammeter from Amazon for $52. It has 40A and 400A ranges, true rms. This thing is going to be handy. Have not figured out what to do about the hydrogen / acid fumes. Van will be wide open for charging the lipos or the deep cycles. I thought AGMs had vents also ?? There must be something to put near the vents to neutralize whatever exactly comes out of the battery.
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Old Mar 27, 2014, 11:45 PM
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My Die Hard Platnium gets a lot of use and goes with me everywhere. I'm using one as a starter battery for my vehicle.
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Old Mar 28, 2014, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBHEND View Post
Interesting thing, the Pos terminal is 3/8" and neg is 5/16", ended up making 3 trips getting the SS wing nuts. I just ordered a clamp-on DC ammeter from Amazon for $52. It has 40A and 400A ranges, true rms. This thing is going to be handy. Have not figured out what to do about the hydrogen / acid fumes. Van will be wide open for charging the lipos or the deep cycles. I thought AGMs had vents also ?? There must be something to put near the vents to neutralize whatever exactly comes out of the battery.
AGM only has pressure relief vents in the event something goes really wrong. Under normal use it does not vent.

As long as you don't over charge it I believe the hydrogen gas is extremely minimal. Guessing as long as the windows are down you would be fine. Best way to neutralize it is probably to disperse it. If you are really concerned run a fan a short distance away from the battery.
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Old Mar 28, 2014, 11:47 PM
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USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBHEND View Post
Interesting thing, the Pos terminal is 3/8" and neg is 5/16", ended up making 3 trips getting the SS wing nuts. I just ordered a clamp-on DC ammeter from Amazon for $52. It has 40A and 400A ranges, true rms. This thing is going to be handy. Have not figured out what to do about the hydrogen / acid fumes. Van will be wide open for charging the lipos or the deep cycles. I thought AGMs had vents also ?? There must be something to put near the vents to neutralize whatever exactly comes out of the battery.
That's the beauty of AGM, they're sealed so they don't leak. Just remember that Hydrogen is flammable. Secure them well so they don't go flying in the event of an sudden stop, etc.
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Old Apr 02, 2014, 01:19 AM
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24 volt system in caravan

I decided to take full advantage of my PL-6 by putting a 24 V system in the van using 2 Exide 24 EV's. I have a series/parallel switch for charging them when I get home. I learned a lot about the care and feeding of these deep cycle marine batteries. I use a Vector digital charger for charging at home. Digital chargers do everything right and are not affected by the voltage of your house power. One of the neat things about the Caravan is I can leave the doors open and Dodge will turn off the lights after 15 minutes. I got a Schumacher XM1-5 digital float charger for off-season, they are not expensive. The one important fact to remember about any lead-acid battery is there is a charging phase called "absorption phase" in which the battery voltage is HIGHER than the final voltage. A fully charged battery is 12.7 volts, if you measure higher, your absorption is not done. Another thing, you can't leave a typical 10 amp charger connected indefinitely , it will cook the water out of it. The Schumacher float charger is dormant most of the time until the battery voltage drops, at which time it puts 1.5 amps on it to bring it back to 12.7 volts. I also got a clamp-on DC amp meter for $52. This way I can check the current going to each 24EV, charging current should be 10 amps or less. If you do all of the above, and don't go below 50% [12.2 volts] they should last a very long time. Even going to 25% [12.0V] once in a while should not shorten their life. Remember, with the $10 rebate, these bats are only $70 each. A lot less than a Honda 2000 and nobody's going to steal them. The switch is Del City item # 73025. It has a DC SWITCHING rating of 21 amps but the "CARRY" rating is much higher; switch manufacturers generally do not publish the carry rating. I never throw the switch when there is current flowing, of course. Schumacher and others make microprocessor-controlled chargers that also provide float charging, such as Schumacher SC1200A.
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Old Apr 03, 2014, 12:09 PM
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Float charge , trickle charge are different: Exide

This chart from Exide provides detailed information on trickle charging and float charging for the different types of lead batteries.
http://www.exide.com/Media/files/Dow...0%205_9_13.pdf

Take a look if you're wondering why some places you see 13.2 V and other places you see 12.7 V as the desired condition for battery maintenance.
You can enlarge your view by holding down Ctrl and rotating the mouse dial. Who knew ??
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Old Apr 03, 2014, 03:44 PM
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Seattle
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Float vs Trickle vs Finishing charge

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2108508
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Old Apr 16, 2014, 07:48 PM
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Joined Apr 2009
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Finished the 24 Volt deep-cycle system ON HOLD !!

I finished my project which is a charging system based on two group 24 Maine deep cycle storage batteries. PM me and I will send you the details to build it. This system meets the needs for many of us but provides nowhere near the daily output of a gasoline generator setup.
The system will provide the charger [in this case a Powerlab 6] with 25 amps at 24 volts. It can be pushed to 40 amps if necessary. Ideally it should be used to 50% of capacity, meaning the open-circuit voltage of the deep-cycles is about 12.2 volt per battery. They can be discharged to 80% or about 12 volts. However each cycle run at 40 amps, or each 80% discharge is equivalent to two cycles. If you did both, it would be equivalent to running 4 cycles at 25A and 50% capacity.
DO NOT BUILD AS SHOWN - THE TWO BATTERIES NEED TO BE IN BATTERY BOXES, DEEP CYCLES HAVE TOO MUCH TENDENCY TO EXPEL ACID. USE BATTERY BOXES OR AGM'S !! I WILL RE-POST WITH REDESIGN SOON.


I re-charge at home using a digital charger on the 10-amp setting, or 5 amps per battery [switch in 'papallel' position]. In the off-season or periods of low use they are on a 1.5 amp "maintainer", the Schumacher XM1-5. Just don't leave them un-attended on an old analog 10 amp charger. PM me and I will send you the details to buy the parts and build it. The parts are: heavy-duty DPDT centter-off toggle, 10 position terminal strip and 10 gauge primary wire and terminals. Note the catch tray ! I already had a brand new Exide 24 EV belch acid on a 1 amp initial charge. The parts dealer replaced it and the replacement is OK but these things CAN for unknown reasons, expel acid. Add a box of baking soda to the parts list. A very useful tool is a DC clamp-on current meter such as the UNI-T #204, $52 on Amazon. I have one EC5 for 24V then two more, each wired directly to the two batteries. The Caravan has a DC power outlet in back and I made a cord so that I can charge both batteries while driving by plugging into one of the 12 V EC5's [switch in 'parallel' position].
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Last edited by BOBHEND; Apr 17, 2014 at 11:38 AM. Reason: NEEDS BATTERY BOXES
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Old Apr 16, 2014, 11:56 PM
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Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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I like it. What is the frame made of? Can you lift the entire setup? Or is something you leave in the vehicle.

I love my generator setup. But there a lot of times I'd just rather take couple Pb batteries. Less setup and noise.
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Old Apr 17, 2014, 12:31 AM
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Joined Apr 2009
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Added details of construction

AS PER ABOVE I AM REVISING THE DESIGN TO USE PLASTIC MARINE BATTERY ENCLOSURES - ordered 2 at Walmart at $8 each. If you see something at Walmart online, order it, the in-store price may well be higher and they won't give you the price. Harbor Freight is same way.

Greg,
I just added the 3 pages of instructions as an attachment in the above. I had a lot of pictures but I accidentally shot them in RAW format [new camera !] I will re-shoot them and add them tomorrow.
After today's acid leak with a brand new battery [the one that is actually going in the boat] I am thinking seriously if I had this to do over again I would bite the bullet and get AGM,s maybe even the 13" "group 31's". That would be really nice. DON'T FORGET TO PUT IN THE CATCH TRAY.
A quick answer is that if I have to move it, I take the top off by removing the nuts from the two threaded rods and lifting the tray off. Then disconnect the wing nuts and lift out the batteries. BTW they don't give you wing nuts, I bought stainless wing nuts and flat washers, and don't forget, the positive is 3/8" and the negative is 5/16". Apparently for less chance of connecting it backwards [or some fisherman sued them when the boat went backwards and plowed into the dock].
Now I am dreaming about those two beautiful size 31 AGMs. Tell the wife it is sooo much safer and they will last longer and they will look so cool she will show her friends.
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Last edited by BOBHEND; Apr 17, 2014 at 12:01 PM. Reason: ADDING BATTERY BOXES
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