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Old Jul 25, 2012, 09:00 PM
UMs & parkflyers... for now.
davidterrell80's Avatar
United States, VA, Herndon
Joined Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeamondo View Post
Anyone know where there might be pics and or instructions for replacing the tail feathers? but I cant find a guide on here for a newbie trying to replace them! Thanks!
I cut my own from a Hefty foam dinner plate. Use a single strip of double-stick Scotch tape to hold the stab to the fuse. Then I made a tab to fit into a slit in fuse and two more small pieces of Scotch gift tape at each side of the fin-stab intersection. I made control horns from 1/64 ply, cutting them out with sharp scissors.

Note also that the upper fuselage block is a home made replacement carved from EPP.
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Old Jul 26, 2012, 12:06 AM
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DeBary, FL
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeamondo View Post
Anyone know where there might be pics and or instructions for replacing the tail feathers? After many glorious hours flying my Champ, she is need of new ones... Only took one time hanging in the trees! New ones are on the way, but I cant find a guide on here for a newbie trying to replace them! Thanks!
No I haven't don't this but I found a good pic of the replacement parts that explain themselves. http://www.gravesrc.com/HOBBY_ZONE_C..._p/hbz4931.htm

davidterrell80's post is fine for folks with a little more scratchbuilding skills. The factory replacement are better in that they'll give you an -exact- fit with no work, and the right color already applied. BTW pay no attention to that man behind the rudder.

When you get the new ones, first make a *template* from the factory parts. Draw around them on paper with a pencil, and if you need to again later you can make another set. Maybe scan them, and you can print a template.

The h-stab sets directly on a flat surface after you peel off the old stab.

The v-stab/rudder however has two tabs that fit into mating slots in the fuse, one at the front of the stab and another at the bottom of the rudder. You'll need to dig/cut out the old stab material for the new

You'll need to untape the wheel/axle and remount on the new rudder. Actually I suggest saving the remount until the very last step so it's not in the way while you're mounting the new v-stab/rudder assembly.

According to the -picture- you'll need to unmount three parts from the old assembly becaues they're not included in the kit. There're two control horns, and a part that 'plugs' into the h-stab to hold it down, and then supports the v-stab. In the pic see those 4 holes in the h-stab, that's where that part plugs into.

Each horn has 3 parts, the long horn that goes through the surface, and two small square plates with a slot through them, one for each side of the surface that it's mounted to.

Those parts are nylon and you should have no problem digging them out of the old foam and scraping old material off them with thumbnail because it's very difficult to get -any- adhesive to stick reliably to nylon.

Mount the horns onto the rudder and elevator before assembling them onto the fuse, because it's easier to work on those tiny parts without the fuse in the way.

I'm not 100% sure if you can mount the h-stab first, and then the v-stab, or if they need to fit together 'all at once.' Do dry fits to find out about that. Things like this, I've done 20 dry fits to make *sure* it's gonna go right because very often you have only *one* chance to get it right.

Be as *stingy* as possible with the CA because it's very heavy!! I use a toothpick to transfer tiny-minute amounts of CA from the tip of the bottle to whatever joint I'm repairing. 'A drop' is waaaaay too much for any of these assembly points. For example after a horn/plates is fitted to a surface, I'd use one speckle-drop on each side where the horn goes onto the plate, and let it soak in, then another speckle-drop at a couple of spots where the plate mates to the surface, and let it wick under the plate. If you're seeing fillets of glue afterward -- that's too much glue. Fillets don't make any joint any stronger just heavier.

You'll need to adjust and center the throws on the rudder/elevator:
-- Hook up the control rods.
-- Turn on the transmitter, and plug a battery into the plane.
-- Set the transmitter trims to center.
-- If you've got subtrims zero them out too.
-- Eyeball the surfaces, and pinch/spread the 'U' shaped sections in the control rods till the rudder lines up *exactly* with the v-stab, and the elevator with the h-stab. Use something like a piece of 3x5 card or other thin cardboard, under good light, to get that alignment as *exact* as possible. Look at both sides of the rudder and top/bottom of the elevator very closely, look for light under the edges of the card. I'm gonna say it again: get this alignment as *exact* as possible because the more time you spend on this the more likely you'll have a more successful flight test with as little further trim as possible.

For completeness, triple check CG.

Triple check that the LG strut fairings are pointed as straight as possible.

Then, have a maiden-V2.0.
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Old Jul 26, 2012, 12:08 AM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
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I think Mike wants to know how to do the stock replacement... since I have spare tail feathers I'd like to know myself. I thought that assembly was just taped on, but, now that I have my fuse apart to work on my LED mod, it looks to me like that might be the only part of this plane that's actually glued on (EDIT: I think it's actually double-sided tape like the main wing). I want to know how to get it off and what to use to glue the new one on, I don't want a permanent CA bond if that's not what HZ did either. If they DID glue it permanently, I'd like to know their own recommended procedure for getting the tail off.

EDIT
I posted at the same time as jbarchuk

I'd still like to know the official HZ recommended procedure though... it's possible HH has a video like they do for most stuff. Will have to look tomorrow.

EDIT
Most of what I wanted to know is in the videos in my next post
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Last edited by North_of_49; Jul 26, 2012 at 01:33 AM.
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Old Jul 26, 2012, 01:29 AM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
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Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
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Part 1 How to repair the tail section on a Hobbie Zone Champ RTF (2 min 30 sec)


Part 2 How to repair the tail section on a Hobbie Zone Champ RTF (3 min 41 sec)
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Old Jul 26, 2012, 05:23 AM
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Wow! Jbarchuk... Thanks for the incredibly detailed instructions! With that and the vid from north of 49, I am confident I can get her flying again. I also fully plan on making a template from them as well....cause if you can make your own from hefty plates.... Well thats pretty cool! She still flies right now with my scotch taped jury rigged job....must mainly to the left. . Thanks folks!
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 05:49 AM
I am GBLynden
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United States, WA, Lynden
Joined Mar 2011
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What battery upgrade does everyone recommend for the Champ?
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 10:19 AM
Segelfliegen bedeutet Freiheit
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined May 2010
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I recently built a BL champ from parts, and had to obviously place my tail on as well. What I did is to use CA on the body where the horizontal stab sits (not too much, but enough to cover most of that area when the pieces are pressed together). I also "dry fit" it first, including the vertical stab mount that is used to hold the rudder.

Once test fitted, I glued the horizontal stab as above, checking to ensure a good fit and alignment with the body. Let dry for about 20 minutes, then cut a slot for the bottom rudder hinge, and test fit that first too. I then added CA on the vertical stab front tab, plus a bit in the "slot" space up front. I CA'd the region where the mounting tongs/brace or piece will hold the vertical stab (already glued when I mounted the horizontal one), which is indented in the rudder section/vertical stabilizer, and some CA on the leading edge front of the bottom hinge.

I slid the rudder assembly into this carefully, ensuring a good alignment of the parts and no CA excursion into any hinges used for movement of the flight controls. Again, after about 20 minutes, it was done! Not actually very difficult, but easier to do in stages to ensure good alignment.

I also added a small drop of 5-minute epoxy where the control horns will have their control rods (at the base of that assembly at the surface of the flight control where the tabs are holding the horn) to secure it from breaking as I twist the horn to secure the rod. This totally avoids risking breakage of the delicate horn, and adds very little weight. The horn can easily twist up to 90 degrees for attaching the pushrods, and allows repeated twisting when aligning the rods to control-neutral.

Darren/SkyCadet
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 10:23 AM
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I use Turnigy NanoTech 160mAh batteries in mine - they work really well. (Hobby-King).

Way better than the stock batteries. (and cheaper too!)

Darren/SkyCadet
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 10:43 AM
I am GBLynden
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United States, WA, Lynden
Joined Mar 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyCadet View Post
I use Turnigy NanoTech 160mAh batteries in mine - they work really well. (Hobby-King).

Way better than the stock batteries. (and cheaper too!)

Darren/SkyCadet
Thank you! I have some of those on their way, so they should work out well for me then.
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 11:59 AM
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
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Yes they will!

I find they give at least 10-15% or more flight times and can handle longer WOT times as well.

SC
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 12:24 PM
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Southlake, TX
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+1 on the Nanotech 160's for the Champ. It really doesn't need better batteries.

When i put tail surfaces on, I don't use CA, which dries hard & Brittle, but instead use a good foam glue like UHU por that remain flexible.

I also reinforce the areas where the tail wheel, control horns mount and the strip of foam that connects the elevator halves together with clear, Blisterpack plastic. This doesn't add much weight, but really ups the strength.

And I for the lower hinge on the rudder, I slot in a piece of Floppy disk, to replace the foam hinge.

Doing this makes the control surfaces much stronger than stock.
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 06:10 PM
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Another good way to firm up the tail is using dilute Weldbond white glue. ~50% dilute, or 1:1 with water, and flow over the surfaces with a soft acrylic paint type nylon brush. After about 10 mins, I usually gently flow over th esurfaces without glue on the brush again to assist better coverage. Let dry for at least 1-2h and its much more solid.

Darren
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 06:30 PM
Chris
Canada, NS, Queensland
Joined May 2012
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I've been using the NanoTechs as well and really like them. They fit everything I have; the Ember, Champ, and T-28. I've just ordered the Mini Aviation 190s after Doug Sipprell's always good advice.

I've also found there are two other good ways to look after the tail feathers; don't fly the plane and if you do, don't hit anything
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 07:39 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
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Firming up the tail...

I thought I posted this here but it may have been in the other main Champ thread... or I didn't look back far enough... so, at the risk of being redundant (doesn't help the rudder in any way though)...

like the real Champ...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1683386


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Old Jul 27, 2012, 07:44 PM
UMs & parkflyers... for now.
davidterrell80's Avatar
United States, VA, Herndon
Joined Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNGN View Post
And I for the lower hinge on the rudder, I slot in a piece of Floppy disk, to replace the foam hinge.
A brilliant idea! Thanks for sharing.

I cut up the static-free bag that my last receiver arrived in... it's good material but yours is better, I think.
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