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Old Apr 03, 2012, 07:59 PM
If it's to be, it's up to me.
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Sydney, Australia
Joined Jan 2007
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Originally Posted by -= GYRO =- View Post
My bipe arrives today!!! Very excited to start building tonight, and hopefully have her ready for first flight this weekend.
You might be a fast builder compared to me, but my build took me weeks. I'm slow and meticulous though, often to a fault. If I had a time pressure like that, it would end in frustration for sure.

Sub
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by demonGti View Post
Remove the circlip and test fit your T40 again before resorting to removing epoxy with a dremel or iron.
done! without removing epoxy, thrust angle would have been off... but thats done, cowl and spinner is mounted, and spinner runs true! so far i dont want to cut open spinner even bigger so im going with vox 13x6.5, but if the motor will not be TOO hot for me, i might try no spinner(i dont want to cut it just yet! ) and vox t40-1
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 01:04 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Aberdeen
Joined Mar 2006
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Originally Posted by rimaarts View Post
done! without removing epoxy, thrust angle would have been off... but thats done, cowl and spinner is mounted, and spinner runs true! so far i dont want to cut open spinner even bigger so im going with vox 13x6.5, but if the motor will not be TOO hot for me, i might try no spinner(i dont want to cut it just yet! ) and vox t40-1
The 14x7 Xoar/Vox seems to be the prop of choice for the AMR, the motor will be fine, it's the recommended set up. I'm sure the 13x6.5 will fly great too but you wont have the same punch. The T40 prop is very fine pitch and I doubt will be ideal, but I've not tried one.

Just trim the spinner, no point restricting prop selection just because the holes in the spinner are too small, that's a clear case of the tail wagging the dog
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 02:35 AM
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
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Originally Posted by subsonic View Post
You might be a fast builder compared to me, but my build took me weeks. I'm slow and meticulous though, often to a fault. If I had a time pressure like that, it would end in frustration for sure.

Sub
Got a lot of work done tonight... happy with my progress. Attached some pics with what I've done:
modified motor mount for my SunnySky 2820-950 (glassed inside, mounted cut-off X mount ouside)
modified landing gear with 3DHS axles and EF wheels
modified cross bar to allow battery access. (dropped the CF crossbar down, added CF rods)
installed rudder/elevator servos (went with opposite sides just to be different)
cut out all openings/slots
installed motor mount
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 03:35 AM
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United Kingdom, London
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Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
The 14x7 Xoar/Vox seems to be the prop of choice for the AMR, the motor will be fine, it's the recommended set up. I'm sure the 13x6.5 will fly great too but you wont have the same punch. The T40 prop is very fine pitch and I doubt will be ideal, but I've not tried one.

Just trim the spinner, no point restricting prop selection just because the holes in the spinner are too small, that's a clear case of the tail wagging the dog
he... i have no tools to cut it... i have to get it to work, take it of the plane, and im too lasy to do it! so...
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 06:52 AM
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soo..im just back from maiden...

one thing really creeps me out about this plane... im using 13x6.5 and even than every time i pulse throttle up, plane really dips left wing (torquing?) on a punch out moment, altough when speed is estabilished, it flies straight and true(nothing i couldnt blame on my fingers or would feel uncomfortable dealing with) only on punchh out moment...

with this prop, motor came down barely warm even after 3 non stop flights so if not the torquing, i would definetely try a 14x7..

somehow i managed to find a sweet spot of cg on a first try, (my gens ace 2200 25c lies with a back precisely in front of back fuse former on the battery tray and it sinks ever so slightly inverted...

actually i find this plane 10x easier to land SMOOTHLY than every 3dhs plane i owned where space might be an issue.. 4 times out of 5 landings i had a smooth touch down...(but on the other hand, i really dont believe that landing gear area would take half of abuse every 3dhs plane can take! ) but landing at least so far was only thing i liked better than my 42"slick...

and now my next 2 complaints/questions...

a) spinner... on the first flight it was okeyish, nice, shiny, much truer than my EF spinner for my 57" but on the second flight i had to take it off because as the screw holes was not properly sized, it started vobbling a lot... so what can i do? glue spinner to back plate? but how do i change propellers than?

and b) landing gear is attached with 2 screws, 1 wood screw and 1 usual screw... as its carbon/carbon and at least wood screw doesnt really grip carbon on one side and already on second landing one of gear legs was moving quite a lot... what can i dot about that? glue it? but if i break the gear? what than?
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 07:14 AM
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Landing gear is not usually a problem, it will knock loose on a heavy arrival but it's intended to do so in order to avoid damage to the airframe. The small wood screw doesnt do much, most of the force goes through the bigger screw. However if the wood screw comes loose and cant be tightenned then remove the gear and run some thin CA into the hole where the wood screw goes (whatever you do dont CA the other hole because there is a blind nut in there). This will harden up the wood and allow the screw to be tightenned up. If you still have trouble use the next size up of wood screw, though this shouldnt really be necassary unless you have ripped out the threads.

I've never had any trouble with my PA spinner. Just make sure that the screws are tight and maybe put a spot of thread lock on them, should be fine. Dont even think about glueing the cone on, that would be a very bad idea.
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by rimaarts View Post
he... i have no tools to cut it... i have to get it to work, take it of the plane, and im too lasy to do it! so...
All you need is a file or a bit of sandpaper wrapped around a stick.
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by -= GYRO =- View Post
Got a lot of work done tonight... happy with my progress. Attached some pics with what I've done:

Nice work, looks like you might have it done for the weekend after all. The pushrods are a bit of a pian to do but dont rush them because if you get the length wrong there is no way to adjust (unless you upgrade to ball links or similar). Best to hold off CA'ing the wire on one end of the pushrods until you have the plane complete and all servos connected up and centred, only then hit it with CA. Also when setting the elevator pushrod length allow for the elevator to be trimmed down a fair bit (maybe 5mm at the TE).. that's another of the AMR's little quirks

Steve
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
Landing gear is not usually a problem, it will knock loose on a heavy arrival but it's intended to do so in order to avoid damage to the airframe. The small wood screw doesnt do much, most of the force goes through the bigger screw. However if the wood screw comes loose and cant be tightenned then remove the gear and run some thin CA into the hole where the wood screw goes (whatever you do dont CA the other hole because there is a blind nut in there). This will harden up the wood and allow the screw to be tightenned up. If you still have trouble use the next size up of wood screw, though this shouldnt really be necassary unless you have ripped out the threads.

I've never had any trouble with my PA spinner. Just make sure that the screws are tight and maybe put a spot of thread lock on them, should be fine. Dont even think about glueing the cone on, that would be a very bad idea.
hee... i have aready expirienced caing blind nuts in, so i wont do that!

but the thing is i cant see any wood there, its a carbon-carbon plates with a wood screw trough them... if it would be wood, it wouldnt come open so easy...

the thing about spinner is than on carbon part, holes are quite bigger than on metal part so even with a tight screws its not helping.. maybe i will try to tighten them harder... i really like the looks of the spinner and would like to keep it on...

and gluing on would be bad idea due to loosing the balance or what? i might try velders (UHU?) it would be easy to remove...
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 07:41 AM
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United States, SC, Pawleys Island
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Originally Posted by rimaarts View Post
hee... i have aready expirienced caing blind nuts in, so i wont do that!

but the thing is i cant see any wood there, its a carbon-carbon plates with a wood screw trough them... if it would be wood, it wouldnt come open so easy...

the thing about spinner is than on carbon part, holes are quite bigger than on metal part so even with a tight screws its not helping.. maybe i will try to tighten them harder... i really like the looks of the spinner and would like to keep it on...

and gluing on would be bad idea due to loosing the balance or what? i might try velders (UHU?) it would be easy to remove...
I had same spinner issue and I used ca and kicker to make the holes smaller and stronger. Works for me...
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 07:46 AM
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Gary,
Your work looks great! The CF rods you used look smaller than what I used. Are they good and stiff? Also you may want to wrap the rod to the cross brace next to the battery tray with some thread and then CA it. Just a little extra insurance.

Also, I altered the front cross brace instead of the back one and it is still fussy to get the lipo plugged and unplugged. You may want to go ahead and do the front brace also....
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by rimaarts View Post
h

but the thing is i cant see any wood there, its a carbon-carbon plates with a wood screw trough them... if it would be wood, it wouldnt come open so easy...

.
CA will attach to the CF and and close up the gap. You may need to do it a couple times to build it up. I would no use kicker cause it becomes brittle
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 02:33 PM
The SteamRoller
USA, CA, Fort Bragg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
"Also when setting the elevator pushrod length allow for the elevator to be trimmed down a fair bit (maybe 5mm at the TE).. that's another of the AMR's little quirks"

Steve
Hi Steve, Can you elaborate on this a little? It sounds to me like you are saying to position the elevator with some down in it, rather than even with the horizontall stab. Is that right?

Thanks.

Doug
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 02:40 PM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Aberdeen
Joined Mar 2006
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Originally Posted by thesteam View Post
Hi Steve, Can you elaborate on this a little? It sounds to me like you are saying to position the elevator with some down in it, rather than even with the horizontall stab. Is that right?

Thanks.

Doug
Doug,

Yes exactly right. the manual even tells you about it, see 'Flight trimming' on page 19:
Quote:
You will find the need to trim down elevator for level flight. this is due to the aerodynamic drag generated by the upper wing
about 5mm down at the TE of the elevator should get you close for the maiden. personally i think that PA should have adjusted the angle of the tail slot to give the required 'down elevator' while having the actual elevator set straight relative to the fixed part of the tail. i actually thought of cutting the tail out and adjusting but then i decided it was too much work. If I was building a new one today that's exactly what i would do though.

Just another AMR quirk, it takes nothing away from the flying performance.

Steve

PS.. and it's nothing to so with the drag of the upper wing
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Last edited by JetPlaneFlyer; Apr 04, 2012 at 02:48 PM.
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