HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:11 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
3,135 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by alumina View Post
please see posts# 7246 7262

I'm in the dominican republic and I guess I own the only 2 KK2 in the whole country jaja
I wasn't planning on throing it away, I thought on keeping it for spare parts if ever needed.
If you know how to fix please tell me, shipping to the states is more expensive than a new one.
Post a picture of the problem for more comments.

First, you need a small soldering iron with a clean small fine tip. A good light and a magnifying glass too.

If the problem is globs of extra solder, they can usually be removed starting with holding the board upside down and heating and adding solder and shaking the extra solder off. Solder wick or compressed air (even blowing with lips) to get what is left. Compressed air will spread strands and pieces of solder in hard to see places so you must carefully examine it and remove them with a pin BEFORE POWERING UP.

If the problem is burned or damaged traces, you just get a single strand of multi-strand wire and rebuild / reconnect.

If you have destroyed components with heat, it is not worth the effort.
theothercliff is offline Find More Posts by theothercliff
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:37 PM
HeliHarry
harrym's Avatar
United States, OK, Tulsa
Joined Dec 2006
338 Posts
What does the message mean "Throttle pass-through" when I try to cal. the esc's?
harrym is offline Find More Posts by harrym
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2012, 11:10 PM
Registered User
Joined Oct 2012
133 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
Post a picture of the problem for more comments.

First, you need a small soldering iron with a clean small fine tip. A good light and a magnifying glass too.

If the problem is globs of extra solder, they can usually be removed starting with holding the board upside down and heating and adding solder and shaking the extra solder off. Solder wick or compressed air (even blowing with lips) to get what is left. Compressed air will spread strands and pieces of solder in hard to see places so you must carefully examine it and remove them with a pin BEFORE POWERING UP.

If the problem is burned or damaged traces, you just get a single strand of multi-strand wire and rebuild / reconnect.

If you have destroyed components with heat, it is not worth the effort.
Thanks for the help, but my problem was different:



Quote:
Originally Posted by alumina View Post
well my soldering....I havent solder in the past 5 years or so.....
I think I know what went wrong: the wire I used was to thick for the hole in the board so I cut a few strands so it passes through the hole. I passed the wire from top to bottom and soldered in the bottom of the board. now one of the remains of the cutted strands was touching the little thing, I have no idea what its called, that is just aft of the hole in the top of the board, I pulled it right away. could that be the problem? is there any life after this or I have to get a new FC?
I can't seem to be able to find my multimeter to test what you mention.


answer from

Ok next time solder the wire from the *bottom* and cut the top flush so no strands are loose.

Now, looking at the circuit, if the wire had touched Q2, there should be no ill effect as one side is grounded, the other has a 3k3 resistor on it and the collector is too far away...
If it was R11 or C38 that was touched, you probably killed U8 which has a max input voltage of 6V. U8 provides the reference voltage I mentioned before.
Touching R17 and R16 is fine but if you'd managed to touch the junction of R12 and 13, U8 would be toast.

So, basically unless you can repair U8 and possibly more, you might need a new KK2.
HappySundays is offline Send a private message to HappySundays Find More Posts by HappySundays


I definetly touched C38
alumina is offline Find More Posts by alumina
Last edited by alumina; Dec 03, 2012 at 11:26 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2012, 11:16 PM
Registered User
Joined Oct 2012
133 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by nordwest View Post
Nice video!

I personally try to lower the PI values as much as possible with the result that the quad is smooth to fly (but does not have a really fast snap-lock in autolevel mode). It is easier for me to fly in this "smooth mode" - but my quads are 550, 600 and 650 size (air photography). I usually set I value to around half P value and do not touch the limits.

I have my P values around 30-40, I values around 15-25. (checked on the 550 X8 copter) - FW 1.5


But again - that is my personal preference.

Like to see more vids ;-)



thanks northwest, you were the only one that gave me a feedback on my video.
from what you see on the video can you say if the quad is stable or not? or that is something that you only can feel while flying it?
alumina is offline Find More Posts by alumina
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2012, 11:17 PM
It's Just a Hobby!
Sudsy's Avatar
Joined May 2012
927 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by alumina View Post
Thanks for the help, but my problem was different:



Quote:
Originally Posted by alumina View Post
well my soldering....I havent solder in the past 5 years or so.....
I think I know what went wrong: the wire I used was to thick for the hole in the board so I cut a few strands so it passes through the hole. I passed the wire from top to bottom and soldered in the bottom of the board. now one of the remains of the cutted strands was touching the little thing, I have no idea what its called, that is just aft of the hole in the top of the board, I pulled it right away. could that be the problem? is there any life after this or I have to get a new FC?
I can't seem to be able to find my multimeter to test what you mention.


answer from

Ok next time solder the wire from the *bottom* and cut the top flush so no strands are loose.

Now, looking at the circuit, if the wire had touched Q2, there should be no ill effect as one side is grounded, the other has a 3k3 resistor on it and the collector is too far away...
If it was R11 or C38 that was touched, you probably killed U8 which has a max input voltage of 6V. U8 provides the reference voltage I mentioned before.
Touching R17 and R16 is fine but if you'd managed to touch the junction of R12 and 13, U8 would be toast.

So, basically unless you can repair U8 and possibly more, you might need a new KK2.
HappySundays is offline Send a private message to HappySundays Find More Posts by HappySundays


I definetly touched U8
This wire does not have to be very large gauge. Not much current at all.

Sudsy
Sudsy is offline Find More Posts by Sudsy
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2012, 11:22 PM
Registered User
Joined Oct 2012
133 Posts
yes I know now, too late tho
alumina is offline Find More Posts by alumina
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2012, 11:24 PM
Registered User
Joined Oct 2012
133 Posts
But I wasn't the only one doing the same mistake, that made me feel a little bit better



Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt-Torpedo View Post
Happy, having done the same thing I still think that top soldering has some potential hazards (solder balls) and personally went with a single pin header on the top side of the board for my second go around.

You've obviously got some info on these components if you know the breakdown voltage - can you give us a part number for U8?

I'm thinking that the Hunter V-Tail might be a nice home for this board if I can get it fixed.

alumina is offline Find More Posts by alumina
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2012, 11:41 PM
Registered User
rcroadtrain's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Marsfield
Joined Feb 2012
354 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by harrym View Post
What does the message mean "Throttle pass-through" when I try to cal. the esc's?
I means the throttle input to the KK2.0 is passed straight through, without any changes, to all the escs, so you can calibrate all of them at once.

it is the right thing to see when you attempt to calibrate the throttle.
rcroadtrain is offline Find More Posts by rcroadtrain
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2012, 11:47 PM
HeliHarry
harrym's Avatar
United States, OK, Tulsa
Joined Dec 2006
338 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcroadtrain View Post
I means the throttle input to the KK2.0 is passed straight through, without any changes, to all the escs, so you can calibrate all of them at once.

it is the right thing to see when you attempt to calibrate the throttle.
I thought that to be the case.
I just don't remember seeing it before.

Thanks!
harrym is offline Find More Posts by harrym
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 04, 2012, 01:26 AM
Registered User
Son, Norway
Joined Sep 2004
3,416 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoRaLeSD View Post
If you don't give power to 2 or 3 the servo on the tail will NOT work. So powering the KK from M1 is correct but will not work the Servo, So I had to power the M2 too to make it work.
Yes, that's what the manual said.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcroadtrain View Post
I means the throttle input to the KK2.0 is passed straight through, without any changes, to all the escs, so you can calibrate all of them at once.
KK said that upper and lower ends were moved a bit, making the range slightly broader than the on from the receiver. But maybe that is changed in latest versions.

Fred
flarssen is online now Find More Posts by flarssen
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 04, 2012, 03:06 AM
Registered User
rcroadtrain's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Marsfield
Joined Feb 2012
354 Posts
Quote:
KK said that upper and lower ends were moved a bit, making the range slightly broader than the on from the receiver. But maybe that is changed in latest versions.

Fred
would that be because in working (armed) mode, the idle is at 10, and stick scaling on throttle is 90?
rcroadtrain is offline Find More Posts by rcroadtrain
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 04, 2012, 03:28 AM
Registered User
Son, Norway
Joined Sep 2004
3,416 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcroadtrain View Post
would that be because in working (armed) mode, the idle is at 10, and stick scaling on throttle is 90?
Here is what he wrote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
Also note that the ESC calibration amplifies the throttle signal a bit to make sure the ESC receive the full range of 1 to 2 ms. (in all versions)
This why it it is best to do the ESC calibration though the KK2.
Fred
flarssen is online now Find More Posts by flarssen
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 04, 2012, 05:08 AM
***** on a stick
seibernator's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Solihull
Joined Sep 2011
70 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by crezzee View Post
I agree seibernator, i now have 1.5 on my kk2 and self level just makes it so easy although it's harder to fly fast as you are kind of fighting the self level.

Hey seib i'm only a stones throw from you, where do you fly?
Yes, especially with a little cross wind and you are 200 feet up and can't tell if you are going forward. The 170 degree FOV GoPro doesn't make it any easier either.

I live on the edge of Solihull next to a Xmas tree farm and there are plenty of fields I can walk to from my house which is handy. Here's my first effort at video editing.

Tricopter FPV GoPro HD (4 min 36 sec)
seibernator is offline Find More Posts by seibernator
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 04, 2012, 05:31 AM
Registered User
zagi450t's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Dunstable
Joined Sep 2012
14 Posts
I have just put the 1.4 firmware on my kk2 X quad, had been flying quite well on 1.2 now it seems to have a problem calibrating the ESCs tries to flip on take off but if you take off in normal mode and then switch to auto level it seems very stable, well it did till last Sunday when it was in auto level it did 3 or 4 quarter rolls and then crashed do you think it is the board or a bad motor solder joint.
zagi450t is offline Find More Posts by zagi450t
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 04, 2012, 05:57 AM
Seafax ROV
WalneyCol's Avatar
United Kingdom, Barrow-in-Furness
Joined Feb 2011
371 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by harrym View Post
Ok! Take it one step further and make the gimbal work with no receiver.
I want to use the KK2 only for gimbal with no receiver attached.
+1 on that if anyone knows how to do it, I've been looking for a way to self level a camera on an rc boat using parts I've already got for quite a while.

Col.
WalneyCol is offline Find More Posts by WalneyCol
Reply With Quote