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Old Aug 28, 2012, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Bvc View Post
...adding the carbon fiber braces to the main frame eliminates it, among other things...
Do you have a picture of your bracing setup?

I've been having a rash of broken tail booms and haven't figured out if bracing would help or hurt.
Maybe the flex at the mai frame helps absorb things and a rigid bracing would create a new stress point?


If you change a tail boom on an old (or new) heli, definitely get one of the new booms with the installed motor.
You gotta unsolder the old motor anyway, why thread an old motor through a new tailboom. Extra work and you still have an old motor.

I used a short piece of braided thread to tie the little hook thing on the new tailboom to the main frame so I didn't have to glue the new one in.

Oh, and it might have just been my motor, but the red wire had to go to M- for things to go correctly... Spun like a blender the first time I powered up.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by MC808 View Post
Mine sometimes does too, though I attributed it to the wind. Maybe it isn't?
I'm not an aeronautical engineer, but I believe that's the 45 degree flybar self stabilizing action kicking in. You've deflected it, now it tries to get back to normal.
If you examine the linkages, the flybar has more leverage on the pitch of the main blades than the servos.

It is my belief that the paddle "upgrade" works by destabilizing the self stabilization.
It does not work as on a conventional 90 degree setup where you change the pitch of the paddles, which cause a pitch change in the main rotor.

I believe - that since they are kinda close to alignment with the main blade (actually less than 45 degrees), the tilt in the main blade causes a tilt in the paddle, thus causing it to pitch the same way as the blade - contributing to it's tilt, instead of it's normal action of opposing it.

I haven't figured out how it doesn't seem to destroy the hovering stabilization aspect of the 45 degree setup.

Anyone who knows/understands have a better theory?
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 02:13 AM
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Ok. I can't argue with success, but this whole flybar thing really has me puzzled.
It's extra drag and extra rotating mass. Both decreasing battery life and motor acceleration performance. And no one seems to know why it works, just that it does.

Anyone willing to try an experiment for me?

The flybar has a link on each side that goes down to the rocker arm, then there's a link to the swash plate.
Look at the ball joint where that first link goes down from the flybar.
Measure the maximum distance between the flybar joint and main blade and the minimum distance (rocking the flybar).
Construct something - cardboard (anything it's just an experiment) that will block the flybar from traveling more than halfway toward the main rotor. Glue or tape it to the edge of the rotor inside the link arm so when the flybar comes down, it's blocked.
I think you could just tape something to the link arm so it can't go all the way down.

I'd shoot for not letting it push the rocker arm downward past horizontal. As a first try.

If I'm right, This should allow the heli to have normal characteristics when hovering, but not let the flybar overly imped full control motions.


I won't be able to try it for a while, so hopefully some brave soul will take my bet and see what happens.



PS: I was thinking - maybe a piece of plastic drinking straw, half the length of the linkage over the linkage would do it?
Would need something to keep it inboard so it always hits the main blade and doesn't bing the rocker arm.
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Last edited by RicksterRC; Aug 28, 2012 at 02:26 AM.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bvc View Post
I've had this happen to 4 heli's. Bearing swashplate always fixed it.
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...580290309.html
When severe and there's still a little wobble sometimes, adding the carbon fiber braces to the main frame eliminates it, among other things. In my case I think it was stock setup with 'broken in' linkage/buckles and sloppy stock swashplate. Add to that crashes and vibration and wobble, wobble......

BTW; check the buckles and make sure none were pushed in too far in a crash or are too loose/broken (if you haven't already).
Thanks for the heads up will try it when i get my check.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by MWShelton View Post
Many thanks Mag718!!!!! I did exactly what you sugested and it worked. She flies like a dream. So far she's the only heli I have that will lift straight up without right aileron. The gear and the motor sounds more connected and solid than version 1. I own several high dollar heli's and its hard to believe what 19.95 will buy you. I hope WL has future plans for a 6 ch. This is one of the better forums I've ever been on. You guys are friendly and more than willing to help. I'm 57 yo and I'm disabled. I have Lupus and it destoys my short term memory and sometimes I might repeat myself or ask a question that has been answered a page or two back, etc. People have been rude and hateful to me to other furums but you guys are always there with a helping hand. The V911 is a great and so are the pilots. Many, many thanks for helping an old Geezer out with a fun hobby.
I got behind on my reading.... 15 pages and this thread moves fast.

I'm glad I was able to help. You can't imagine how frustrated I was when I got my yellow one.. I was like a 8 year old throwing a temper tantrum. But a whole lot of patience and I sorted it out.

Glad to be of help.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 09:57 AM
Doink-not again :)...aka Greg
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United States, MI, Sterling Heights
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribble View Post
My wind-surfers are all stock. Fly only low rates with transmitter Elevator trim full forward. Four using new version carbon shaft and swashplate.

Once in a while I fly the one with MSR paddles on a stock flybar though it is harder to fly and doesn't do anything for the way I fly.

One has a 9958 main motor which is promising as the bigger pinion gear wants to make the blades spin faster.. Still testing it and slowly trimming the trailing edges of the blades which increases rotor RPM.

Seven Yellow V911's that I am slowly getting used to in the wind. Got these for night flying.

Once you know it is possible to fly a V911 in wind, then there seems no end to learning how to do it. My favorite is soaring like a glider and banking off the oncoming wind. So relaxing. All in my back yard and there are tall bushes that create neat vertices. I can fly in an open field in the wind, but gets boring fast. Macadam tennis courts are fun as the smooth surface causes the wind to stay above the surface.

Do not misunderstand, I consider myself a poor pilot and many/most can out-fly me on a calm day or indoors.
I use stock also. Find I do not get as many flybar strikes as I used too, think my flying is getting better as I very rarely crash anymore. I still fly very agressive but have learned what to do before a crash. Got my grandson to say wohooo a few times yesterday.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 10:12 AM
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United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Jun 2012
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Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
Banggood got the paddle flybar. It was $1.20/piece and then price went up to $2.20 the day it was actually in stock.

Simply search for Helios.

The only question is, what modification is necessary to use the Helios flybar. It's been reported that it's not a "drop in" fit on the v911 head.
The balls look a bit big for the stock links.I ordered two a week ago,waiting to find out .
Thinks for the idea about lubing the helicopter
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 10:23 AM
Safety : practice & promote!
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Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by MWShelton View Post
9X. I couldnt get anywhere with stock transmitter.
Ah...a kindred spirit. I personally can't stand the game-pad controllers that come with the helis. I love expo and having programmable dual/rates and throttle curves. And, don't forget throttle hold!!! I'm still training myself to use that whenever possibles so that when I get my first mCPX won't power it into the ground at maximum negative pitch by shoving the throttle stick to 0...

You have er9x on yours yet? I got a smartieparts board and flashed my firmware. Really cool stuff.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 10:25 AM
Bvc
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined May 2012
330 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksterRC View Post
Do you have a picture of your bracing setup?

I've been having a rash of broken tail booms and haven't figured out if bracing would help or hurt.
Maybe the flex at the mai frame helps absorb things and a rigid bracing would create a new stress point?


If you change a tail boom on an old (or new) heli, definitely get one of the new booms with the installed motor.
You gotta unsolder the old motor anyway, why thread an old motor through a new tailboom. Extra work and you still have an old motor.

I used a short piece of braided thread to tie the little hook thing on the new tailboom to the main frame so I didn't have to glue the new one in.

Oh, and it might have just been my motor, but the red wire had to go to M- for things to go correctly... Spun like a blender the first time I powered up.
No I don't. MOK does on his blog. I used CA and braided thread. The skid I had for 2 months broke immediately after. Because the flex in the main frame was gone? Not sure but I suspect so. I've never busted a tail boom though.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 10:25 AM
Safety : practice & promote!
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Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post

I'm all about the paddles tonight.
[SNIP]
Anyway, here are some pix of my flybar with the CA gel on the outside waiting to cure.


Well, I couldn't wait this morning and put a little 120mAh 14C battery into the V911 (the only thing I had charged) to do an initial flight test. The heli hovered pretty well and I didn't see any immediate instability or excess vibration, so I'm pretty excited that maybe this flybar is going to work out!

I'll charge up my Nanotechs this evening and fly a few to see how it performs indoors. The real test, however, is going to be this weekend (3 day weekend!!!) when I go outdoors and really put this thing through its paces.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MC808 View Post
But you fly your V911 with the TH9x? Just wondering what settings you followed?
None. 0 Dual Rates, 0 Expo I just trimmed it and fly it. I'm still expeimenting with the 9958. I'm flying 50% DR and 50% Expo and it still can be a handfull.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 11:03 AM
Safety : practice & promote!
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Originally Posted by MWShelton View Post
None. 0 Dual Rates, 0 Expo I just trimmed it and fly it. I'm still expeimenting with the 9958. I'm flying 50% DR and 50% Expo and it still can be a handfull.
In my experience the 9958 needs full servo throw (100% DR) because you need to be able to pull back hard if you need to avoid a collision with something. However, the expo is definitely helpful for taming it. That way you can do your small stick motions as needed and it won't translate into big motions on the heli. Also keep 100% on the rudder no matter what you do since it's the slowest turner of all of the helis I have.

(Sorry to keep talking about the 9958 in the V911 thread...)

The V911, on the other hand, is just fine with less expo. Also 100% D/R but I do dial back the rudder a little bit so that piros are a little slower.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 11:14 AM
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I visit the 9958 thread regularly and theres a lot of talk about the V911 LOL. It just seems like they're brother and sister. Both of em are great inexpensive heli's, they have two entirely different personalities.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 11:38 AM
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San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
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Definitely different flyer between the two. The 9958 was the first respectable clone. It sets a good precedent.

When the v911 came out, it was a very attractive package. You got a good charger and two excellent battery.

The durabilities upgrade WLToys made over the Solo Pro, their responsiveness to listening to feedback, and the bnf option all makes for a even more attractive combo. I also think those flybar on top head design makes it easier for those 3ch coaxial pilots looking to step up. If they had taken the extra step to resolve the flybar strike, it would have been practically flawless.

The Helios had the potential to dethrone but without a good upgrade path to a hobby grade TX, it gets left behind with the toys. Here's to hoping it'll be easy to mod for FlySky compatibility.

Btw, regardless of the thread a newbie is in...I'll always recommend the Heli that's the better fit. Or at least make them aware of their options.
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Last edited by Daryoon; Aug 28, 2012 at 11:59 AM.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 12:13 PM
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Joined Nov 2005
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Please help me.

Flight time of my v911 is not normal, so I want to find out what the problem is.

First, I tried to measure my battery status.
I have 2 of turnigy nanotech 160mah and 130mah batteries.
Using turnigy accel-6, the batteries were discharged where the discharging current was set to 1A and cut-off voltage was set to 3.0V.
The amount of discharged mAh was 133mAh and 101mAh, respectively.
It seems that they are normal, right?


Using newly charged batteries, I flew my v911 until it cannot hover.
160mah battery (I just hovered heli.)
- flight time: 2min 30sec
- charged: 70mAh (After flying, I charged it to check how much it used.)
- avg. current: 1.7A

This is very strange. I heard that flight time of stock 120mAh battery is around 6~8mins.
Although I assume that they consume 80% of battery power, the average current of v911 should be 120*0.8/(6/60) = 1A
This is very different from my result.

Do you have any suggestion to find out problem?
When I flew my v911, it is very stable without vibration.
Possibly, motor problem?
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