Official Armattan FPV owners thread
This thread is for anyone wishing to share their Armattan FPV experience with everyone else in this thread. Iíd like to see information such as building tips, controller used, setup info, and especially FPV equipment used, etc. Let's see those flight videos as well.
The original Armattan thread can be found here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1843444
So, letís see what you got?
Armattan home page: armattanquads.com
Armattan Mini home page: armattanminis.ca
Updated March 23 2015
Lots of new and exciting things going on at Armattan. They are working on a tilt mount for the FPV Hexa machine. You can see more photos here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...88775&page=115
Please contact Chris via email for purchase. email@example.com
Hexa Tilt Frame $TBD
Frame only $150 + $5.00 shipping worldwide
DIY kit $315 + $5.00 shipping worldwide
RXR $350 + $5.00 shipping worldwide
Extended arms + $5.00 for the set, not each
ImagesView all Images in thread
Some pictures of the frame assembly:
Here are all the parts laid out. I forgot to put in the metal bolts for the landing gear (4 of 'em) and the M2 hardware for the FPV cam.
First assemble the dirty sections together. Push the bobbins into the bottom dirty plate. Use arm hardware to install the 4 arms. Install the tail hardware into, you guessed it, the tail. Install the landing gear.
The regular bolts on the arms need to be tight but loose enough that you can still fold the arms when you loosen the thumbscrews.
Next is to install the dirty plate stiffeners. The thicker tip goes towards the front. If you install them backwards, you'll know when you try to install the clean plate standoffs later on. The only challenging step is next, getting the top clean plate onto the bobbins. I found it easiest to start an edge of the bobbin with a screw driver, and then push the rest up from the bottom (through the bobbin).
Build the GoPro box. Install the rubber balls on the front and back plates, with the bigger balls on the front plate. If you're like me and don't have a newer GoPro, use the longer standoffs. Use the shorter standoffs for GP 3 onwards.
Attach the clean plate standoffs, then press the GoPro box up into the top clean plate. Push the bottom clean plate onto the bottom and screw in the bolts. Attach the FC cover to the top (this can wait until later though, after you've installed the electronics).
And here's my GoPro 960 (worse than the Hero 1 ) mounted up front. No straps or other equipment needed, just loosen the thumbscrews and slide it in or out. When tightened down, that thing isn't going anywhere... Side panel is open to hook up power or live out. A lens protector isn't required, but probably recommended. A press fit ND filter works great.
With Mobius mounted (notice the nicely cracked but still working lens).
Some pictures with power train installed. This is with the upgraded 453 arms for 10" props. Running the following:
-Emax 2216 810kV Motors
-Armattan 30A ESCs with SimonK
-HQ 10" MR props (will be T style Gemfan later on)
-Full Mullet FC running baseflight (will be updating to cleanflight later on)
-EZUHF 8ch lite Rx
-4S 2450mAh to 4000mAh
Thanks for posting this, Jim.
As it has been for the last few releases by Armattan, this design is about 90% that of Armattan's Chief Designer, Maymayday.
A big, big thank you goes out to him for his invaluable help.
For this design, I must say, my collaboration was less than usual. I laid down a list of things I wanted improved on the Rev1 design and I soon noticed that he was trying to save on parts count reusing parts from the first design, like the arms,etc, in an effort to keep production cost low. That's when I made it clear to him that there were no restrictions this time. He had green card to re-design everything from the ground up, he had no restrictions on part counts and this included custom made metal parts and whatever else he needed to take his creative skills on a roll. I would simply have these things fabricated.
Well, it almost broke the bank. Custom milled sunk nuts, custom alumi thumbscrews, custom alumi standoffs, two new arms designs and a total of ten CF parts required to put this bad boy together.
For the first time, once he finished the first draft, I had no suggestions, I had nothing I wanted changed. I simply could not find anything that needed to be improved. This frame is strong, it's super light at only 319 grams, and the design itself is unique. But he found things he wanted to improve and he kept working on for a bit longer until he was satisfied. Andrew really invests a lot of thoughts in his designs and he puts his own integrity and pride on the line for Armattan, and this is something I admire in him.
And it's one thing to look at CADs but it's a complete other thing once you finally get the parts in your hands. This frame is an absolute beauty and as always, every part fell into place as if they were molded. The guy is a genius, period.
Anyway... Here is a rough list of the improvements found on this design over the first version:
1- New arms folding mechanism. No tools needed to fold the arms. We use sunk nuts that anchor into the carbon fiber and we use thumbscrews instead of bolts.
2- New from end to fit a GoPro (hardware is included for both the old and new GoPros). No rubber bands or straps needed to mount the GoPro. We use thumbscrews on that, too. See attached pictures. When the hardware to mount the GoPro is removed, the only plate left, the one behind the GoPro, is cut out to mount a front end gimbals.
3- Landing skids added.
4- Redesigned frame and arms to allow spinning 8 inch props without the propellers spinning above the center section of the frame. This allows for longer flight time and more efficiency.
5- Enlarged hole above flight controller covered with a "manhole" plate on which we are also using the sunk nuts. This allows for easy access to the FC for things like connecting a FTDI, ESCs, receiver, or programming a KK2.
6- Now using anodized black, 5x 45mm standoffs. This makes building the model with the frame fully assembled a breeze. Plenty of room for your fingers to solder the ESCs on a DTB, etc.
7- Improved battery mounting options allowing for a battery to be mounted all the way above the FC. This is a huge improvement as it allows tuning the COG perfectly depending on whether you use a small FPV camera, or a GoPro, or both.
8- Arms options are 258s which is really a 330mm platform (max 8 inch props), or 453 arms which makes for a 453mm platform (max 10 inch props). While the old 258 and 355 arms do fit, they will not fold. The new arms are needed for the new folding mechanism to work.
9- The front end design allows for easy integration of a front mounting gimbals.
Post your fpv settings !!
Lets see your settings for your Armattan FPV ..
My settings at this time / trying to Shave a few grams !!
FPV 258 ( First Edition ) Chris " OLD" quad .
Motors: Armattan Black edition 1800 KV ( First Edition)
Prop: 7x 4.5 or 8x4.5 FC and HQ props
ESC: 30 Amps Armattan
Battery: Nano Teck 3S 2250 Mah - 65-130 C / ZIPPY Compact 2700mAh 3S 35C
FC: Naze 32 Acro / Armattan Mullet .
Receiver: Devo RX802 or Devo RX1002
FPV Camera: SONY Super HAD CCD 600TVL D-WDR DNR Board Camera w/ 2.8mm lens (110 degree FOV)
HD Camera: Mobius wide angle .
Video Transmitter: Immersion 600 Mw - 5.8 Ghz
Antenna: Fatshark Spironet or Blue Beam Whip 5.8 Ghz
OSD: EZ OSD HobbyKing.
AUW: 1080 gr.
Flight Time: Not fully tested as of yet 18/11/14
Power:weight ratio: 2.2 to 1
This is a working project at this time , need to shave some weight somewhere, my ratio should be a little
bit higher IMHO.
Ps... Recommendations are welcome on how to shave a few grams here and there!! Thanks
Hard for me to have an FPV race if I'm the only one with a quad!
Thank you Chris and Andrew for all your hard work on this machine. This will be my first FPV quad. I've had so much success with the Armattan quads in the past that it was a no brainier to buy an Armattan FPV quad when I decided to give it a try. Might as well stick with what works.
My quads will ship within the week, let the waiting begin.
This new frame is so sick it was delivered by a Hazmat team.
10 days total time from Taiwan to here-5 dollar shipping.
I went for the t-motors and mullet fc.
Chris has some great videos on his site with set-up tips etc. Thanks Chris!
This is my parts list so far for this guy. I plan to leave acro flying with my 250-class minis and use this for GoPro video capture with some sport flying.
FC - CC3D
Radio Rx - TFR8SB
Motors - SunnySky X2212 1400KV
ESCs - FreebirdRC 30A
Props - 8"
Battery - 3S 2200mah
Video Tx - IRC 5.8ghz 600mw
Vtx antenna - Fatshark Spironet
OSD - TBD*
FPV Cam - Sony Effio 800tvl
Production Cam - GoPro White3 w/ TL68A10 cable
Video Switcher - r/c controlled GT Power 3ch switcher
Power Reg - Polulu 5v s/d 600ma
PDB - RedRotor PDB w/ lc filter
Lighting - r/c controlled strobe LED
* I normally just go with the Simple OSD for voltage reading but if there's enough clearance for a GPS to work, I'll try a Tiny OSD or Cyclops OSD.
I see oldcougar is coming in at around 1kg auw. Has anyone else put theres together and has an uaw indication?
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