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Old Apr 28, 2015, 04:36 AM
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C1. Channel 1 (Control 1) Throttle stick. Try out the servo monitor screen, it helps a lot to see what control is moving what channel.

I was a little baffled with some things at first but once you get around the menus a while it gels together.

Servo monitor is your friend.

I don't share you opinion of the display. Even at extreme angles I can see it fine. Try adjusting the contrast or turning the backlight off.
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Old Apr 28, 2015, 09:46 AM
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Hello David ... yeah, I saw that late last night after my previous post. I was in the manual at Programming Examples and it really does not say. Went to page 114 and the manual makes a passing comment about C1 being channel 1. Going to be a steep learning curve I suppose.

The useability of the manual is quite lacking; it has a lot of information but it is not in a flow where someone can sit down with the manual, pick up the TX and actually program a model for the first time. It reminds me a lot of the Multiplex manual that came with my Evo 12; lots of information but you had to go to three places in the manual to understand something. I actually found the Evo 12, from the start, more intuitive to program than the MC-20.

I think a part of the problem is that Graupner thinks everyone of us are familiar with their jargon and way of thinking. Fact is, most nearly none of the potential U.S. customers are familiar with Graupner. A prime example is Graupner uses 'Desolving a Bond' to reference 'unbinding' a RX and TX combination. Maybe that is a loss of translational clarity between written languages and maybe it is just the arrogance of naming a process something different so a product line will stand out?

I did notice that after I 'attached' a switch to Rudder dual rate there were not an obvious way to remove the switch in the menu. If it is not obvious then the user is confused. I am confused. Why would someone make it clearly obvious how to set the switch but then make the user read the manual for an hour to find out how to unset the switch?

So far the Graupner experience ( current buzz word ) is a 2 out of 10. I won't give up on the MC-20 just yet but I also do not have any expectations to have a 2m Sprite programmed for this weekend. Much less a simple 5 channel ALES glider.
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Old Apr 28, 2015, 10:25 AM
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Not a great manual true. The only good manual for RC that I have seen was when I was thinking about an Airtronics SD-10G, it's actually written with good flow. Like just about anything I am going to buy I download a manual and read extensively before hitting the "Buy" button. I found it just about necessary to read the manual front to back about three times then the disconnected info comes together. By that time I was just glossing over the MC-16 references that are interjected.

To remove something like a switch assignment, just highlight it again and touch the UP and DOWN arrows of the right keypad simultaneously. That is used for clearing things.
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Old Apr 28, 2015, 03:16 PM
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SUMD with NAZE32

My son sent me a box full of parts to build a Mini Mamba for my b'day. Then he proceded to build his first. Caught him up yesterday and tested/flew it before him :-) Mine is configured with a GR18 RX, (was going to use the 12 but I needed some external RX controlled switches for head and leg lights and the VTX power source. Don't need headlights when using camera. Don't need camera when flying LOS but I do need lights !!!! :-)


I am pleased to report that the GR18 did just great with SUMD set as the feed wire to the NAZE 32 board. The firmware in the Rx/TX forced me to use ch6 for SUMD and I used ch9 for the LIPO telemetry LIPO sensor. The NAZE board has its own "chirpy"warnings if you are close enough to hear them.I also have, and I have the OSD etc. on my ground station, but I like an early audible voltage reading from my TX on almost everything I fly. I set LIPO low warning value a bit higher than the NAZE. It's like being one step ahead of the problem to come - I also like to hear it close to me!

Eric
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Old Apr 28, 2015, 07:38 PM
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Sigh .... from bad to worse. Apparently holding down the ESC and SET at the same time puts the TX into BRICK mode. Somehow recovered from that after a few power on and offs and pressing the ESC / directional arrows. Then upgraded to latest firmware and the BRICK mode has returned.

In short, the Key Lock icon does not go away.

Is there a procedure to restore to factory default settings?

ETA:: problem cleared after re-flashing the FW.
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Last edited by Lou; Apr 28, 2015 at 08:08 PM. Reason: reflash info
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Old Apr 28, 2015, 09:11 PM
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Brick mode does no exist.

When you press the ESC & SET buttons simultaneously the radio locks the keys. Doing the same again unlocks the keys.

No need for a firmware update.
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Old Apr 28, 2015, 09:47 PM
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BRICK mode do exist. It is what happens with the TX is locked and will not unlock. Well, OK ... the lights were on so maybe it was a soft BRICK mode? Maybe it was a MARSHMELLOW mode?

Reflashing the FW fixed the problem.

Now, BRICK mode is a tongue in cheek way of saying the TX is locked up. None the less, it was also all hosed up; the lock would not remove and the ESC / SET did not work. Even removed the battery and that did not help.
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Old May 01, 2015, 08:32 PM
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I just updated my GR-24 Pro via the manual slow flyer/gyro receiver down loader with a file from tech support.
The process finished but the led's flashed. Does that mean the process was complete?
I then powered down the receiver, and disconnected the data transfer wire. I powered up the receiver while holding in the set button to do a reset to the new firmware.

Is this correct? I know the GR-24 pro requires a different update procedure than other receivers.
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Old May 01, 2015, 10:21 PM
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Just bind it to the TX and see if it works. Blinking light should stop after binding.
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Old May 02, 2015, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Henderson View Post
My son sent me a box full of parts to build a Mini Mamba for my b'day. Then he proceded to build his first. Caught him up yesterday and tested/flew it before him :-) Mine is configured with a GR18 RX, (was going to use the 12 but I needed some external RX controlled switches for head and leg lights and the VTX power source. Don't need headlights when using camera. Don't need camera when flying LOS but I do need lights !!!! :-)


I am pleased to report that the GR18 did just great with SUMD set as the feed wire to the NAZE 32 board. The firmware in the Rx/TX forced me to use ch6 for SUMD and I used ch9 for the LIPO telemetry LIPO sensor. The NAZE board has its own "chirpy"warnings if you are close enough to hear them.I also have, and I have the OSD etc. on my ground station, but I like an early audible voltage reading from my TX on almost everything I fly. I set LIPO low warning value a bit higher than the NAZE. It's like being one step ahead of the problem to come - I also like to hear it close to me!

Eric
Eric,
don't know which firmware you're using with your Naze, but I have coded this warning in Cleanflight recently (already merged and will be in the next v1.9.0). So that no more need of a Lipo sensor, you'll hear the warning beep (or voice alarm) coming from the naze on your TX.
see : https://github.com/cleanflight/cleanflight/issues/702
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Old May 02, 2015, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graupner USA View Post
Just bind it to the TX and see if it works. Blinking light should stop after binding.
Yes it does. I just wanted to be sure before I risked an airplane with the receiver.

Gadget
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Old May 02, 2015, 10:50 AM
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On April 14th Graupner posted that the OPTO ESC were taken of the site due to a minor fix. I then asked if I would have to send my new 80 A Opto in for service. There was no response, I then followed up again with no response.

Thanks
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Old May 02, 2015, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre_A View Post
Eric,
don't know which firmware you're using with your Naze, but I have coded this warning in Cleanflight recently (already merged and will be in the next v1.9.0). So that no more need of a Lipo sensor, you'll hear the warning beep (or voice alarm) coming from the naze on your TX.
see : https://github.com/cleanflight/cleanflight/issues/702
I'll take look at it - Thanx for the info.

Eric.
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Old May 02, 2015, 05:34 PM
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It appears that only the 160A ESC may need that fix. PM me your email used when ordering the 80A OPTO and I will put you on a list just in case.

The 80A OPTO I have been using on my airplanes for over a year now have been working flawlessly. If you are flying helis you will be impressed with the governor response.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pherasi1 View Post
On April 14th Graupner posted that the OPTO ESC were taken of the site due to a minor fix. I then asked if I would have to send my new 80 A Opto in for service. There was no response, I then followed up again with no response.

Thanks
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Old Yesterday, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Henderson View Post
Here is a couple of ways.


On my Mz-24 I use 4A2F (4 ailerons, 2 flaps).


Then go to servo display and I can see channels 2, 5, 11 and 12 when I move tthe aileron stick.


OR


Choose 1A and go to Ch set.
Touch ch-5 and move aileron sticl
Touch ch-6 and move aileron stick
Touch ch-7 and move aileron stick


Either way you can set each channel direction, end point and centering one at a time.
Eric.
Eric,

The second option work if you dont use the exp resource, Only work D/R, and in first option you lost 2 channels for flap functions !

Daniel
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