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Old Oct 20, 2011, 09:37 PM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
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Originally Posted by 2500GENE View Post
Not yet.



Actually it doesn't. It's air speed load remains the same up wind or down. The only thing that may change the is YOU backing off the throttle thinking you are going too fast downwind. (you are judging it as ground speed as you see it)..and then try to turn and tip stall.

Get ground speed out of your head.
Yeah... the thing to resist is making the crosswind portion of your turn not go sideways with the wind. If you fly across the wind and correct for the wind so you are flying straight relative to the ground, you may well end up with very little airspeed when completing the turn in the wind's direction.

I guess in summary, realize that if you don't let the wind sweep you sideways when turning, YOU are causing the aircraft to crab sideways and that is felt when you straighten out to the wind's direction. Clear as mud?
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 12:35 AM
Serge
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Россия, Калужская область, город Калуга
Joined Jun 2011
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Originally Posted by 2500GENE View Post
will still eventually kill the motor.
I think I am missing something!
Correct me if I am wrong. What kills the ESC (and the motor for that matter) is the current which means overheating. Right? (We do not take into consideration the case of voltage because in our range it will still bring us down to current, unless you plug your ESC or a motor into the mains).
1. The motor is rated 30A and we take 100A ESC with normal 3S battery. Will that kill the motor? My answer is NO. Even though ESC is capable of 100A with 3S which is suitable for the motor itíll pass through itself only those 30A which the motor asks under full load. Is this correct?
2. Now we take the ESC listed 25A and connect it to the same motor. At full load it can deliver to the motor asked 30 A Ö but not for a long time. It can do that until it overheats and burn. Right? What we do now is get additional cooling to the ESC Ö say get it outside and fly only in below zero temperature so any moment the temp of the ESC is the one at the beginning of getting 30A out of it. Will it last longer? How long? My answer is until the battery goes flat. If so, can I load it a bit more (hypothetically)? I say yes but not for a long time, until it overheats and burn.
3. I might be totally wrong and I eventually got my ESC in the post and do not take my chances any more, but since I am just about to start new more powerful project I would like to understand the way it works.
Oh! And by the way here is my ESC which actually proves partly what I said by the sticker on it and the specs.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6460
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 12:57 AM
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post deleted - Skys rock, YAY!
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 03:20 AM
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United States, NC, Richlands
Joined Jun 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2500GENE View Post
There's a guy on the EZ* thread who used a cheap auto dashboard "ball in water" compass for a while. He flew FPV and he could see it via camera while flying. Very effective, then he went GPS and OSD......and that's no BS you BMF.....
There's a video I saw yesterday on EagleTree's site on their OSD system (for FPV) that was just the awesomest thing I've seen yet (and I loathe the overuse of 'awesome'....but this one truly was). He was testing the Return-To-Home features at various altitudes, had 'head tracking - when he looked left, right, up or down the camera followed, AND 360* camera panning, and of course full HUD on the screen. The Works! He was flying it thru a power-generation Wind Mill farm (flew in behind one to test turbulence in its vortex)....and for the cherry on top there was a sunset in the background. Ahhhhh-SUMMM!! And all in a cheap li'l foamie pusher plane.
Oh crap....lemme look it up - gotta share it with you guys.
Here ya go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=LRy3XntxGx4
(You WILL enjoy!)

Quote:
If it's not too much trouble.....you think you guys could take it a bit easy on my card for a while... I need a few bucks to finish my pool.
Sure, ol' pal....no problem a'tall. One small thing - when I got it from AJ, he'd worn the raised numbers slap off of it & it couldn't be read. Please send them to me by PM -- (wouldn't want others abusing it, y'know.) (Which I'd NEVER do).

PS - your new PayPal password would be a big help, too....prolly just a technical glitch but the other'n doesn't seem to work any more. (Per Oz).
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by healthyfatboy View Post
Do you have the link to this? I would search through the last pages but I'm feeling lazy right now.
Yes. Yes, I do.
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 04:06 AM
Earthbound Skyhound
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United States, NC, Richlands
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
... Well doody! -- they didn't give me [a buddy code] on the logger! Whassup with that???

Did get a couple on the sensors however -- FWIW, here ya go: ..."
^^^^^^^^

So....what IS up with that?? Does anyone know the criteria for getting a buddy code on a purchase? Have no earthly idea why they didn't; it was a comparatively expensive item, they (routinely?) give 'em to other buyers of this item, obviously......plus, buddy codes generate freakin' business for them!!

So, whazzup, indeed?!?
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 04:13 AM
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aeronka, ozair thanks for advice.

Yes, I use velcro forhold wings. When I fly, was too much windy so I lost control and crashed.
Are have any other store where possyble buy bixler replacement parts?
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 05:02 AM
The figure "9" Specialist
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A Barrier Island in New Jersey, USA
Joined Oct 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by healthyfatboy View Post
Do you have the link to this? I would search through the last pages but I'm feeling lazy right now.
This is the one I got:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120772377528

Aeronca
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 05:43 AM
Row 0, Seat A
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Savannah, GA
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Yo Teddie...
Not sure I follow ya there, bud. Upwind puts a heavier load on the plane for the prop/motor to pull. &c.
No, it doesn't.

Ted
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 05:56 AM
Me a long time ago
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London N.E. UK
Joined Jan 2007
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Originally Posted by G550Ted View Post
No, it doesn't.

Ted
It just makes the model or airplane go slower. But the ASI would show the same speed if going up or down wind.
But a GPS would show the ground speed.
That right Ted?
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 05:58 AM
Me a long time ago
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Can we get off this 666 page as it is scary.
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 06:45 AM
Earthbound Skyhound
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United States, NC, Richlands
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Originally Posted by G550Ted View Post
No, it doesn't.

Ted
Look, I don't wanta go to war or nothin' over this but, this, and "get ground speed out of your head" ..... I don't intend to launch an airplane and just have it hover there in front of me until the battery wears down. I want to fly it thru the sky, and that means moving it over the ground, and that means ground speed is involved. And you can't sit there and tell me when there's wind involved - maybe I should say enough wind - that you don't have to increase power to the motor to overcome the wind. Well, you can tell me that, but I ain't gonna believe it! And when I say 'overcome', YES, you can actually fly it without increasing the motor speed to overcome the wind and just let the wind blow it further & further away but there's gonna be a helluva lot of walking involved to recover it. Me, I don't walk so good & I want to fly the plane back to me.

The bottom line is, flying into the wind (enough wind) WILL require increasing the power to the motor to get the plane back to me, and that will show on the log as increased consumption of power.
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Flypoppa View Post
Can we get off this 666 page as it is scary.
Change your posts-per-page setting. I'm just on page 400.
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Flypoppa View Post
Can we get off this 666 page as it is scary.
999 page too
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 07:04 AM
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Joined Jan 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ua3xds View Post
I think I am missing something!
Correct me if I am wrong. What kills the ESC (and the motor for that matter) is the current which means overheating. Right? (We do not take into consideration the case of voltage because in our range it will still bring us down to current, unless you plug your ESC or a motor into the mains).
1. The motor is rated 30A and we take 100A ESC with normal 3S battery. Will that kill the motor? My answer is NO. Even though ESC is capable of 100A with 3S which is suitable for the motor itíll pass through itself only those 30A which the motor asks under full load. Is this correct?
2. Now we take the ESC listed 25A and connect it to the same motor. At full load it can deliver to the motor asked 30 A Ö but not for a long time. It can do that until it overheats and burn. Right? What we do now is get additional cooling to the ESC Ö say get it outside and fly only in below zero temperature so any moment the temp of the ESC is the one at the beginning of getting 30A out of it. Will it last longer? How long? My answer is until the battery goes flat. If so, can I load it a bit more (hypothetically)? I say yes but not for a long time, until it overheats and burn.
3. I might be totally wrong and I eventually got my ESC in the post and do not take my chances any more, but since I am just about to start new more powerful project I would like to understand the way it works.
Oh! And by the way here is my ESC which actually proves partly what I said by the sticker on it and the specs.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6460
1. Yes
2. Yes you are right about the heat being the eventual killer but for FETs, it's not just some cooling problem. Once you reach a break point, it goes into a thermal avalanche and you can't really stop it once it gets there no matter how much you cool it. The FET just breaks down and you're toast. Sure, you can push it by flying only when it's below freezing but why take the chance? Run everything near absolute zero and you can run your 100A motor on a 1A ESC. You can run your car at red line in the winter all day hypothetically without any issues right? We can talk hypothetically all day but why when it's not good practice? You're free to do these tests yourself but don't clutter the thread with potential confusion points that someone skimming through the thread looking for information might find and run with. I prefer to take it safe and run the right equipment.
3. If you're working on a high power system, get an ESC that fits the motor. You want your motor spec to be around 75-80% of the ESC steady state spec. i.e., motor pulls 20A continuous so use at least a 25A ESC or higher, no lower.
As for the link, sure, if you run everything on the spec edge, it'll technically work but they even say not to do it. That's why there's a burst rating on batteries, ESC's, and motors. Continuously, it'll do xxA, burst (for a few seconds), it'll do a little more. Spec wise, it'll do even more but that's where it blows up.

Back to my ignore list.
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