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Old Feb 06, 2016, 07:37 PM
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Cap,

I don't know why they don't just make the mount with the correct angle from the factory, but it's really easy to make your own wedges. You can make clamps like Ed did, but simple wedges work just fine - I have almost 100 flights on mine (see photos) and no issues at all. Just buy some aluminum bar stock from your local hardware store. Assuming you don't have access to a mill, use this method to shape the wedges:

Measure and mark out the holes, length and scribe the intended angle on the both sides. Don't cut it to length yet, leave at least 5 or 10" of bar stock on the back to use as a handle. Drill the two mounting holes (it's easier while its flat). Using the extra length as a handle, use a disk or belt sander to rough out the angle following the scribe lines on the side. Then use a flat file to finish it up to a smooth surface. Once all this is done, cut to length and file the ends smooth. You should be able to make two of them this way in less than an hour.

I've flown it this way with both a K80 and K100.

Greg
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Old Feb 06, 2016, 08:13 PM
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You don't really need Aluminum wedges. Plywood, or my case plastic, would work just as well. The temperature at the mount is pretty low and with all the cooling airflow you won't have any problems. I find wood a lot easier to work with than metal.
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Old Feb 07, 2016, 08:02 AM
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I would agree with Frank and others in that the wedge does not have to be aluminum. I chose aluminum as I had some sitting around and I had a hacksaw and files to make them. You could make the wedges out of anything that does not compress very much (like plywood, nylon, Delrin or plastic).

One other option that I believe others have used is rather than shim the engine up 5 deg., mount the engine to the mount and shim the front of the mount up with aluminum or ply to get the 5 deg.

Ed
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Old Feb 13, 2016, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsm026 View Post
Cap,

........................
I've flown it this way with both a K80 and K100.

Greg
Hello Greg
What was the weight of your NAVYCAT with the K100 (without fuel )..... 19,5lbs or more ??
thank's

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Old Feb 13, 2016, 01:45 PM
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My Navy Cat with a K-100 is right about 17 lbs 12 Oz with a dry tank and full UAT.

Last flight I took off at about 3/4 throttle and flew mostly at just below half and the whole flight was great. In thinking of limiting my k-100 to about 130,000 rpm, which is it's rpm at 3/4 throttle on the ground. Hopefully this will give me more usable throttle resolution, especially for landing. Does this number sound about right? A k-100 is definitely overkill and was meant for another plane, of which I ended up buying a k-120 for.
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Old Feb 13, 2016, 03:54 PM
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My Navy Cat with a K-100 is right about 17 lbs 12 Oz with a dry tank and full UAT.

Last flight I took off at about 3/4 throttle and flew mostly at just below half and the whole flight was great. In thinking of limiting my k-100 to about 130,000 rpm, which is it's rpm at 3/4 throttle on the ground. Hopefully this will give me more usable throttle resolution, especially for landing. Does this number sound about right? A k-100 is definitely overkill and was meant for another plane, of which I ended up buying a k-120 for.
Thank's
I'll be at 19.3lbs with my Falcon 120 strengthened as a NavyCat ( with a dry tank and full UAT)
I hope it will not be too .... landing will be faster
if you decrease the maximum turns, you may consume more and this is not good for the reactor (board of a Kingtech technician )
it is better to play with a switch that will change the throttle curve after your startup ... 100% during the startup and (for exemple) 85/90 % during the flight - this will give you also more usable throttle resolution

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Old Feb 13, 2016, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADISONMaster View Post
I'll be at 19.3lbs with my Falcon 120 strengthened as a NavyCat
I hope it will not be too .... landing will be faster
if you decrease the maximum turns, you may consume more and this is not good for the reactor (board of a Kingtech technician )
it is better to play with a switch that will change the throttle curve after your startup ... 100% during the startup and 90/95 % during the flight (the power curve and exponential)

MADISONMaster
Hmm, I didn't even think of that; using a dual rate switch to limit the throttle curve is a great idea. This way I don't have to remember that I limited the engine when I transfer it to a larger airframe.

Although I'm curious about why it would consume more fuel being limited?

You shouldn't have to worry about your landing speed, my Navy Cat lands very slow; easily as show as a mid sized sport prop plane. Your engine mount is very clever, although I'd worry about the CG. Mine was spot on using the standard engine mount and location.

On a side note: I'm getting about 8 minute flights, not including a little taxiing and I'm still landing with about 1/3 tank of fuel left.
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Old Feb 13, 2016, 11:10 PM
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My dry weight with the K80 was about the same as Frank's - 17lb 11 oz. I didn't weigh it while I had the K100 in it, but the 80 and 100 are almost identical in weight. Not sure I understand the need to limit the thrust on the K100. I didn't fly any faster with the 100 than I do with the 80 - I just used slightly less throttle except in up lines.

To be honest, the difference in speed and thrust did not seem that much to me. The K 80G is underrated - it puts out 19-20 pounds of thrust vs. 22 for the 100. My Navy Cat will climb out of sight with either engine.

Greg
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Old Feb 13, 2016, 11:57 PM
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Is anyone else having trouble with the fly-model retracts included in the combo? I have yet to fly gear up. I'm getting so frustrated with them. I've tried multiple valves including two different mechanical, xicoy and Jet Central electronic valves. I've injected silicone oil into the air cylinders, checked and rechecked the lines, Ts and quick disconnects. The problem seems to be mostly in the nose retract: it's letting a bunch of air blow by the piston. I took the retract cylinder apart and it almost looks like the o-ring is too small. Does anyone know what o-ring I need to replace the stock one? Is there another way I can remedy this problem?

I almost want to replace the whole retract system with the prolink electric retracts, but I can't see installing retracts that cost more than the airframe as practical.

Addendum: the problem is definitely the front retract. I ended up removing the front cylinder's piston and then removed the o-ring. I wrapped the channel on the piston with a few layers of Teflon plumbing tape, to provide a bit of a shimming effect and reinstalled the o-ring; and then installed the piston into the cylinder. I hooked it back up to the air system and now it works perfectly. This is only a temporary solution; the problem is the o-ring being too small. I'll try to find the right size this week.
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Old Feb 14, 2016, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankW View Post
Is anyone else having trouble with the fly-model retracts included in the combo? ...............................
I almost want to replace the whole retract system with the prolink electric retracts, but I can't see installing retracts that cost more than the airframe as practical...................
Hello FrankW
it is not easy to change the mechanical of the landing gear when there is no standard
you been forced to make changes that are sometimes very difficult
But it's the result that counts

On my Falcon 120 strengthened, i am using this electric landing gear LCMER-1B 15 kg (Turnigy)
but you have to make some changes so that they are reliable (electrical insulation with bakelite and some mods on the front wheel control arm (diam 6 mm) )

Some vues of my engine support (192gr) fixed with screws motorcycle (very light and resistant aluminum) and aluminum bars purchased in a large DIY store
CNC supports with an inclination of 5 ░ come from "Dreamworks Model Products"
for the CG calculation is verified throughout my change

MADISONMaster
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Old Feb 14, 2016, 10:10 AM
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Is anyone else having trouble with the fly-model retracts included in the combo? <SNIP>
I have the trailing link gear from Fly Model. They have worked fine from day 1, no issue with air leaks. There is an issue now that the bushings and/or pins have now become worn and the gear are pretty loose and floppy from side to side in the mount. Over the last 19 months of flying they have taken some abuse - bouncy landings at first, ran off the runway when the pull-pull broke, and one or two off-runway landings. Overall though, for $200 they were a great deal.

Greg
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Old Feb 15, 2016, 11:28 AM
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I had the same issue with Blow by on one of the mains, i tried looking into a fix but upon inspection i wasnt able to disassemble the piston, can you please explain or post a pic of this, eventually i was sent a replacement but when i received it in the mail it clearly showed signs of being a used gear set.......Brian
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Old Feb 15, 2016, 11:51 AM
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The rear of the cylinder screws off. You'll notice two indentations on the rear cap. They must use a specialized tool, I was able to use a set of jewelers round jaw needle nose pliers to unscrew the cap.

I wasn't able to find an appropriate o-ring in my assortment box. So I rewrapped the piston channel with Teflon tape (did a better job this time), put in a little silicone adhesive and reinstalled the original o-ring. Then I lubed the whole thing up with some Team Associated Green Slime and put her all back together. Seems to work now. I installed a pressure failsafe as well. Hopefully I can fly gear up next time.
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Old Feb 17, 2016, 06:36 PM
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has anyone used standard size servos in the tail for the rudder or elevator.? how much more nose weight did you need. I have a k100 I was going to use. I don't want the hitech servos most use because don't have any luck with hitec 5245MG or the 5645's bad servo centering or don't last long. want to use futba sbus servos or savox 1258's . any advise would be appreciated thanks

also what about nylon gear servos in the tail. any luck with them.?
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Old Feb 17, 2016, 10:31 PM
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Have you considered using Futaba mini-servos?

Most metal gear servos use a sacrificial nylon gear anyways, which is usually the same gear that strips when you use a nylon gear servo.

I'm currently using Hitec HS-225 servos on the tail (the elevators will soon be replaced by HS-5245s) Originally both elevator servos were metal gear until I had to replace one servo because it was acting up with a plastic gear servo. I have also considered other servo brands. Ultimately I don't know, every servo brand/series has an attrition rate. The best thing about this plane is the redundancy on the elevator.
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