Do to time constraints this is a quick pictorial of my brushless conversion..

FLITE Video:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showa...mentid=1199646

That's a nice clean install you've done there c/f

A couple of Q's..

How are the servo's attached? glue, tape?

Do you find the lipo is a bit vulnerable positioned in the nose? It looks like it could be easliy punctured if it caught a stone or other sharp object.

Nice work!

Si.

Servos are attached with this SUPER SERVO tape, I preffer it over foam type tapes.
It's also removable somewhat difficult with foam on other side.

http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro...=PAR8044/137.0

I actually have no choice in battery location because of c/g. Even a 2 cell will not allow it to balance on OEM marks. My motor and mounts of a lite weght c/f design have the props closer to leading edge which improves elevon performance, that I had no other choice.

You can see a layer of C/f sandwich inbetween the foam nose layers that should absorb some shock. I could also add more foam underneath to totally capture the battery as well in future. Consider that I still am flying the original set of OEM props from 8/23/06, as well as the spares. I'm a pretty conservative pilot so to speak

This model has been stranded 60' up in a tree for past 6 weeks, it has seen 10" of rain and snow and finally 30mph winds which broke it free. most these pix are taken yesterday before I fly it again, everything in it is still working except battery, and looks like the day it got stuck.

I will get it cleaned up from dirt, a easy way to clean a SL is to first wash it up with soap/water for dirt layer, then any stains and stuff come off by overlaying some good quality tape and lifting back off stains and all.......

What are the skids made from?

I sell a self adhesaive tape, Rhino Skins, that normally goes right over sponsons on all my hydros. The soft EPP kept working on the edges with the abnormaly soft flexing of the EPP and lift tape.

I finally solved the issue by attaching a piece of 2mm X 10mm c/f skid material to the bottom of sponson using Sumo glue, this raises it up enough to not contact other non covered area of sponsons, then putting my Rhino tape on top of that, Its been holding on perfectly now since all my flying is done from pavement surfaces. Rhino tape in rear has been on since day one.

I've not tried it yet but I'm hoping the inside rail effect from this skid material could improve water handling as a strake underwater. We'll see.......

Originally Posted by c/f

I actually have no choice in battery location because of c/g. Even a 2 cell will not allow it to balance on OEM marks. My motor and mounts of a lite weght c/f design have the props closer to leading edge which improves elevon performance, that I had no other choice.

What is the distance of your props from the leading edge? Mine currently are set at 1 1/2".

Nice flying at E-Fest last weekend! I always enjoy your vids.

Barnyard,

Thanx for the comps,

ITs hard to get exact measurement as you because I dont have the stock plastic leading edge anymore. I can only get a measurement from the foam leading edge with plastic removed.

The back of the 4X4 prop hub is aprox 1" from the LE, the tip of the prop is 1 1/8" to 1 3/16" depnding on tip center or rear.

Originally Posted by c/f

I'm a pretty conservative pilot so to speak
.

Skills, Baby!
There is no substitute!
Nice build and nice flying!

Very Nice! Thanks for sharing the info and pics. I hope mine ends up looking and performing half as good,heck a quarter as good I just figured out my electronics and am now tackeling the fitting of parts to the SL. Have you or anyone else flown their StrongLauncher from the water yet? Any suggestions for someone who intends to? Thanks, V

What props are you using, and where can we get them?

Thanks,

Tom

The red ones are OEM props, older pix,

I dont use them in favor of a GWS 4X4.

I mount them in a very unique way. they are amlost 5mm in center so I finish the job with a 5mm reamer. Then I push one of my surplus heli motor pinion gears thru prop to get some internal teeth type grips in the soft plastic.

Then I install some Prather brand silicone, small nitro tubing on motor shaft leaving it extend past shaft tip a good bit. then install prop by pulling on tubing and push on prop till it goes on shaft, then trim tubing flush, prefect shock absorbing design never slips. Easily replaced with new prepared prop and tubing.

c/f, I've seen you make reference to "Rino Skins" a few times ( FunJet Light and here) I see its a tape, where do you purchase it?

c/f,
Nice to learn you brushless Storm Launcher is back in service. Thanks for posting the great pictures and info. Oh yeah, nice flying too. I have just expect that from you, but is always amazing to see.

That is the most stable slow flight SL I have seen. I suspect it is partly pilot skill and partly your efforts to keep weight down. What is the flying weight?

Don

Don,

This one is a tad over 9oz, with the 3cell onboard,

As you can see the power of the 3s 2500KV motor package is really perfect.

It does everything in that video all the way to LVC. I really like this setup as its a nice balance of power to weight for vertical and slow speeds so as not to inflict excess damages in crashes.

C/F I know there are many many posts on brushless conversion,but a few questions, I have just purchased a futaba 4ex-fm transmitter , will this be sufficient to run a brushless S/L, Wht about reciever ,I have no experience of building/modding stuff and could do with an in depth thick idiots guide to converting an S/L to brushless I know the info is there but a complete link to it would be cool,ie cost,bits,how too etc basically a "how too" guide without scrolling through 500+ pages and from someonbe like yourself who has done it,The only thing I'm sure of is that my tail fins would survive, thankyou :-))
Sean