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Old Mar 11, 2014, 11:36 PM
Is it suppose to do that?
moscow580's Avatar
USA, CT, Waterbury
Joined Sep 2006
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Build Log
1/6 Fokker Dr1 - Peter Rake

I had lots of excuses of why I did not post my build, and they were really good ones until WWI Flying Ace proved they pointed to one thing...I was a chicken. Well the chicken is out of the coop and I have decided to post my DR1 build.

I actually wanted a DR1 for quite some time. I actually asked Peter Rake back in 2006 whether he designed one, but he never replied, so I figured I better not asked that question again. Nevertheless when I saw that Hammerd was building a 1/6 DR1 from Peter Rake and Manzano was carrying the short kit - I bought that bad boy and quick.

The build has been going on since December and I only have been sharing it with a couple of friends WWI Flying Ace, and my friend Owlsabie. I appreciate their accolades and support.

Most of the frame is already built and I am up to some final minor items. The last item I build was a battery box. I used a similar box on my AerodromeRC Pup so I just repeated process again. This time I am going to glue the box to the firewall to get the best amount of help in weight for the CG.
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Old Mar 11, 2014, 11:48 PM
Is it suppose to do that?
moscow580's Avatar
USA, CT, Waterbury
Joined Sep 2006
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What I did not tell the community is that this is my first DR1. When I started building I did not realize the complexity of it all. I finished 2 Aerodrome RC planes and one Peter Rake and I thought what can be so hard . Well after taking everything just one step at a time it came together almost magically.

The next level of punishment was to create a pull pull system for the control surfaces. The plans are set up for the pull pull system and very easy to follow (great job Peter). Even for a beginner in the pull pull area I was able to follow the process. (also lots of internet research).

At first I was unsure how I was going to anchor the exit tubes to the wing spars. I thought and thought and and thought again. I then took a piece of extra wing spar and cut it to about 1/2 inch and drilled a 5/32 hole through the middle lengthwise. I then inserted the brass tubing into the hole. I made a corresponding block for the second exit point. I then Titebonded the blocks to each other and to the wing spar.
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 12:26 AM
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S/E Michigan
Joined Jun 2010
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Yeah man, with you on this!
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 02:06 AM
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South Africa
Joined Feb 2009
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Awesome Sean

Al
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 04:39 AM
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Norfolk, England
Joined Sep 2001
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I'm really sorry I didn't reply, can't think why that should have happened. Although, since I hadn't drawn one at that stage you didn't really miss much.
This one is, as you say, fairly complex. Just bear in mind who built the prototype, and how close to scale he requested it be. I'm glad you were able to work through that and your model is coming along rather nicely. I take it you won't be doing any panel-beating like Darrin did?

Just one point, are you really thinking of just using 6lb fishing line for the closed loop cables? I wouldn't advise anything less than nylon coated beading wire of around 15-20 lb strain. Because of the convoluted route the aileron cables take there's just too much risk of something stretching or going wrong with anything less. Sloppy aileron linkages are the last thing you need. Even on my smaller models I use 12 lb monofilament line and they're only lightweight 3 channel models.

Pete
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 06:23 AM
Is it suppose to do that?
moscow580's Avatar
USA, CT, Waterbury
Joined Sep 2006
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Thanks everyone.

Thanks for the input Pete. You know I asked the same question to John and he thought 6lb was okay. But if your are telling me to go heavier it is a short ride to the sporting goods store. I wish I was more technically inclined to these issues, but this is how I learn.

Also please no apologies I felt I was the one who stepped over the line. Thanks for helping me with my build. And yes I think I will be Off Off Off Scale compared to Darrin's plane.

Sean
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 07:32 AM
AKA Jon Rider
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United States, MA, Holliston
Joined May 2004
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Fantastic build! - Watching and learning - I misdirected you on the wire - Sorry - Peter is spot on - to go through all of those twists and turns, make sure what you get is strong wire, not nylon cable, as any stretching will add "slop" in the ailerons - some great advice I once received is to take a length of the wire, support it from the ceiling and add a weight to the bottom for a day or two to "pre-stretch the cable before installing, will help with keeping everything tight -
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 09:12 AM
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This looks great and I really like the build logs. You learn so much, if you are like me just starting out, from watching others. I already had your input about the aileron pull pull system - thanks again by the way - but it is cool to see your progress and it helps understand the method behind it. Keep up the good work!
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 09:43 AM
Is it suppose to do that?
moscow580's Avatar
USA, CT, Waterbury
Joined Sep 2006
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Hi Jon. Thanks for the tips on the wire. I will try that. Do you think it will work for fishing line as well?

Hi Mike. Thanks for signing on. You are so correct. Having your own build thread creates a great vehicle for learning. I look forward to seeing how you do your pull pull maybe I can employ it on my next model.

I realized that I have other stronger fishing line that I inherited from my Dad (Rip 2008). I could use these as the control wires. Please take a look and tell me what you think?



Sean
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 09:53 AM
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I am in the mix of working on the pull pull at the moment. Would appreciate your advice. I'm thinking of running my lines through plastic tubes the length of the run. The idea being that I can better run things, if something later becomes detached, if I have the tube to run it through. I was thinking of using plastic rather than metal for the weight. Do you see any downside to that?
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 10:02 AM
Is it suppose to do that?
moscow580's Avatar
USA, CT, Waterbury
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeSawicki View Post
I am in the mix of working on the pull pull at the moment. Would appreciate your advice. I'm thinking of running my lines through plastic tubes the length of the run. The idea being that I can better run things, if something later becomes detached, if I have the tube to run it through. I was thinking of using plastic rather than metal for the weight. Do you see any downside to that?
I think running tubes is a great idea wish I would have thought of it when I first constructed the wings, however, and I am no expert, would running through the tubes create a stronger environment for twisting? The use of plastic is good idea for saving weight and I don't see any downside at all. When you say detached where is your concern? If the tubing became detached and I do see how the wire being inside the tubing could then be compromised and get wobbly - but that is probably never gonna happen.

My concern on my airplane is the wires cutting through the ribs, but maybe I am just paranoid.

Just thinking out loud and would rather the more expert builders confirm this idea, how about drilling a second hole through the rib below the first and run a second tube. Since you are using plastic the weight is probably negligible. I am just not sure if the ribs integrity would be compromised.

Sean
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 10:13 AM
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I was also concerned about cutting holes into the ribs. The system I'm thinking about would use separate tubes for each run, i. e. two for each wing side - one for upper and one for lower aileron connection. I'd thought to glue the tubes into the servo wire run. I had not thought about twisting of the wires. Would that be a problem with just one wire in each tube?
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 10:17 AM
Is it suppose to do that?
moscow580's Avatar
USA, CT, Waterbury
Joined Sep 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeSawicki View Post
I was also concerned about cutting holes into the ribs. The system I'm thinking about would use separate tubes for each run, i. e. two for each wing side - one for upper and one for lower aileron connection. I'd thought to glue the tubes into the servo wire run. I had not thought about twisting of the wires. Would that be a problem with just one wire in each tube?

The twisting I learned about was in Pat Lynch's Peter Rake 1/6 DVII. But if you are running two tubes the only place to be careful is when they exit the tube to travel to the servos. Seems there could be an issue of the twisting there as well. But then again no matter how you build the system that will always be a possible concern.

Sean
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 10:25 AM
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United States, NY, Dobbs Ferry
Joined Oct 2008
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Sean, looking great, thanks for sharing your build with us! Always something new to learn.

Stephen
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 12:19 PM
Is it suppose to do that?
moscow580's Avatar
USA, CT, Waterbury
Joined Sep 2006
1,009 Posts
Hi Stephen. Thanks for stopping in. I was looking at your tissue work it is beautiful. I love your desire to innovate.

Sean
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