Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Yesterday, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by storm chaser View Post
Here's some pics of the LEDs I've fitted to the quad.

I was also wondering if there's a way to deactivate the flip command once it's been activated. For example if the pilot presses the flip button, but before then moving the cyclic control in the direction of the desired flip, reconsiders and decides not to flip. I've tried pressing the flip button again but this didn't seem to cancel the flip mode.
Yup, those already have a resistor and I bet they will work great straight off the battery. You will lose the switch function, but over the course of a 8 min or so flight they won't draw enough to worry about, you may even like the orientation aid as I bet they'll be bright enough to see in all but direct sunlight. Try a string hooked up to your 2S cell and see if they aren't much brighter. Side note, that's an awesome LED location idea that I just may have to steal!

As to the flip thingy, I fly with a Devo 7E Tx and can't help you unfortunately.
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Old Yesterday, 03:49 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Kent
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Thanks for the idea-I will try them directly off an exhausted battery to see if they still light brightly. Although, looking at the specs of the strips on the Banggood site, the voltage tolerance is stated to be 7.4 - 15 so they may still have issues.

As you say, mounting them where I have really helps with orientation. They look great at night-well for about 3min! I guess there's no such thing as a tiny and light transformer that could be used to step up the voltage of the feed to the strips?
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Old Yesterday, 04:19 AM
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Looks like a transformer isn't what I would need. If I did need to go down that route, the device to step up the voltage could be a "boost converter". They seem to be fairly small. If much prefer to just find some LEDs designed to work at the available voltage though!
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Old Yesterday, 04:39 PM
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Pretty much all LEDs work at very small voltages, usually around 2-3vdc. This is achieved by installing a resistor in the circuit such as the one on the LED strips between every third LED. That will drop 12v to the level required. The range given by BG is roughly correct in that LEDs don't need an exact power supply, they have a range. Higher will burn them out sooner, lower will be dimmer. Using the spare plugs on the V262 board already set up LEDs means there is also a resistor in that circuit...so now you have a resistor designed to drop ~8v down to 2 or 3v, then that's going into the LED strips with another resistor designed to be fed 12v and reduce it down...thus the extremely low power to the strip LEDs.

One thing you can do is use a Pololu 12v step up v-reg wired to one of the plugs and then wire up the strip LEDs...but I suspect this may draw enough current to possibly reduce flight times a bit. (I have a quad using a similar lighting setup that draws 0.35A just to power v-reg, 3 LED strips of 3 LEDs each, and the FC.) This will only work if the power at the FC plug is at least 2.5vdc.

Another option is to use SMD LEDs and install the proper resistors to allow them to light fully. Check the vdc at the FC plug pin, then you can build your own from there. I did something similar and blogged it here. Parts are cheap, but tiny. Using the home-brew option you can get exactly what you want and still have the switch capability
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Old Yesterday, 05:17 PM
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I ran LED lights on the arms of mine and soldered directly to the board and it worked fine.




Quote:
Originally Posted by storm chaser View Post
OK so an update.

I purchased some 28 AWG wire from eBay (item 161252885170). It's even thinner than the OEM wires for LEDs and motors on the V262. I soldered it directly to the 4 pairs of outputs on the PCB labelled "lights1", "lights2" etc. Ran the wires through the same route as the existing motor/LED wires and soldered them to strip LEDs mounted to the upper circle of the landing gear/gear protector. These are the LEDs I used (3 on each corner) Tatot Night Lights Aeromodelling Dedicated LED Lights For RC Models SKU: SKU093006 from Banggood. Red LEDs at the rear and white at the front. Rears work fine and are fairly bright. The fronts start off a bit on the dim side but usable. Once the battery pack voltage drops the white LEDs get increasingly dim and will turn off completely if the battery pack runs low enough for the low voltage warning to flash.
I guess the specs of the components must be slightly different for the red and white strips - they do look physically different. The LED strips remain switchable with the standard Tx lights On/Off button. I'm researching other options to replace the white LED strips. Here's some pics:
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Old Yesterday, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Rook62 View Post
I ran LED lights on the arms of mine and soldered directly to the board and it worked fine.
I believe that if you are wiring a single LED and connecting it to the jack marked LED, the limiting resistor is built in and the voltage correct.

If you are just wiring your LEDs to a regulated 3.3V (or any other regulated voltage source) somewhere on the PCB then unless you are wiring a 3.3V LED then you will need a current limiting resistor.

Use this link to determine the right value of resistor to use. I inserted a sample problem for a standard 5mm red LED 2V, 20ma.
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