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Old Nov 14, 2012, 01:49 PM
Bladerex700
Joined Jul 2007
422 Posts
Whoops!
Getting rid of this smell,

Today I decided to charge my lipos so i can go to fly, and this is what happends
Thanks to this little AMO case nothing happens.
One cell triger the rest of the lipos,


Cooking some lipos,
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 02:34 PM
Redacted per NSA "suggestion"
dedStik's Avatar
United States, VA, Virginia Beach
Joined Feb 2012
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MMMmmm lipo stew, just like mom used to make.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 04:13 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
17,138 Posts
Two ammo cases would be a better way. Cheaper too. One to charge in and the second for storing the ones that don't burn up during charging in.

You have my sympathy. If you can identify a cause and want to report it, there is a thread on LiPO fire examples, reports, and suggestions here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719116

Jack
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 07:56 PM
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tacx's Avatar
United States, MI, Macomb
Joined Apr 2009
2,645 Posts
You can use all the "ammo boxes" you want. They will not stop the gases and fumes expelled by a burning lipo. They WILL stop the flames from spreading to other things, but not the fumes.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 08:10 PM
Thanks Wilber and Orville !.
sonic liner's Avatar
San Jose Cally
Joined Jan 2004
1,043 Posts
Good move investing in the " AMO " case. Try opening the windows.....employing some fans....cooking up a bunch of Garlic marinated fish....then spray some Fabreeze in the LHS scent. I am glad everyone and everything is OK. Hmmmm reminds me of a Trex 250 I just purchased, one of the three lipo's has a slight swell.....drawing a saltwater bath now. Peace out.



Pete
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Last edited by sonic liner; Nov 14, 2012 at 08:16 PM.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 08:50 PM
Registered User
USA, VA, Alexandria
Joined Oct 2004
372 Posts
One more time...... Salt water is not the correct way to dispose of lipos. They are still charged but the tabs are corroded off.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 09:31 PM
Bladerex700
Joined Jul 2007
422 Posts
I had 5 lipos charging, and again one lipo trigger the other ones, I keep separate my lipos,
My other question is, if salt water can't diacharge them how can you disposes them the? I have leave my lipo connected to a lightbulb (Christmas lights) and then I dispos t them on my recicleing program that we have here in California!!!
But I rather know the right way .
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 09:34 PM
Bladerex700
Joined Jul 2007
422 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
Two ammo cases would be a better way. Cheaper too. One to charge in and the second for storing the ones that don't burn up during charging in.

You have my sympathy. If you can identify a cause and want to report it, there is a thread on LiPO fire examples, reports, and suggestions here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719116

Jack
So I can to you that Roballoba is been my friend for years, and the guy that burned that house we know him, but I can't tell you what trigger it.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 02:39 AM
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Joensuu, Finland
Joined Mar 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BladeRex View Post
...I have leave my lipo connected to a lightbulb (Christmas lights) and then I dispos t them on my recicleing program that we have here in California!!!
But I rather know the right way .
That is the right way.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 08:50 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
17,138 Posts
If it is not clear to anyone, the deal on rendering a LiPO pack to a totally discharged state is to place a small load on it (like the Christmas tree light bulb, a 120V 7W bulb typically) so as to drain the pack slowly and safely. Then it can be thrown away.

If you just short the battery connectors to each other to drain the pack you create a grossly high current draw situation and that is what makes a LiPO pack overheat and burst into flame.

If you use a 12V automotive stop light bulb (like a #1147) to drain the battery when the light is out and cool to the touch the battery is drained...

The typical #1147 bulb is rated at 12.8V, 1.35A, and 17W so it is a good choice for discharging 2S and 3S LiPO packs. On 4S and higher the higher voltage might burn them out so you can use a pair of them connected in series (not parallel as I said originally) as a load.

Every electric RC person need to have a small "dummy load" handy so that you can discharge packs and load test packs with it. It is almost as essential as owning a watt meter...

Jack
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 09:10 AM
Registered User
Joensuu, Finland
Joined Mar 2002
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Sorry Jack, I must suggest a slight correction:
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
...The typical #1147 bulb is rated at 12.8V, 1.35A, and 17W so it is a good choice for discharging 2S and 3S LiPO packs. On 4S and higher the higher voltage might burn them out so you can use a pair of them connected in parallel series as a load...
In parallel, you would have the whole 15V across both bulbs. In series, the 15V is across both bulbs = 7.5V per bulb.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 09:22 AM
Bladerex700
Joined Jul 2007
422 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
If it is not clear to anyone, the deal on rendering a LiPO pack to a totally discharged state is to place a small load on it (like the Christmas tree light bulb, a 120V 7W bulb typically) so as to drain the pack slowly and safely. Then it can be thrown away.

If you just short the battery connectors to each other to drain the pack you create a grossly high current draw situation and that is what makes a LiPO pack overheat and burst into flame.

If you use a 12V automotive stop light bulb (like a #1147) to drain the battery when the light is out and cool to the touch the battery is drained...

The typical #1147 bulb is rated at 12.8V, 1.35A, and 17W so it is a good choice for discharging 2S and 3S LiPO packs. On 4S and higher the higher voltage might burn them out so you can use a pair of them connected in parallel as a load.

Every electric RC person need to have a small "dummy load" handy so that you can discharge packs and load test packs with it. It is almost as essential as owning a watt meter...

Jack
I am going to have to be agree with Jack, we all should have something like this, that will help us drain the Batery slowly and safe.
I am wondering if any of the big Rc stores are working on producing something like this, since they are the ones that sell the lipos, why not have sell a "safe discharge lipo"


Ari
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 09:48 AM
WAA-08 THANK FRANK!
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Las Cruces, New Mexico, United States
Joined Jun 2002
7,317 Posts
An esc will do the same discharge duties over a day or two....
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 11:05 AM
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Doug Bartley's Avatar
Canada, ON, Owen Sound
Joined Oct 2008
2,840 Posts
The idea of carrying a bunch of lipos around in a steel can has never appealed to me. My fear is that somehow connectors will find a way to touch each other. I know a lot of people who use ammo cans, and my brain keeps telling me they are asking for potential trouble.
I use a tool bag with multiple pockets, only carry the batteries I intend to use that day. I do not charge at the field.
In 6 yrs of flying, 1000's of batteries charged, never had a problem. I've only seen 2 batteries catch fire, both in planes flying, likely the results of exposed wires touching.
I'm amazed at what I see out there, connections and joints covered with scotch, electrical, masking tape, glue etc instead of proper shrink tubing installed correctly. When I see the potential hazard, I say something, but usually get "its all I had at the time". I then stay away.
Multiple battery charging is another area where potential hazard exists, it really easy to misconnect on some boards. I use harnesses that separate the +- from the balance cables and only charge in parallel on similar or same sized batteries. fwiw Doug B
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 01:54 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
17,138 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkettu View Post
Sorry Jack, I must suggest a slight correction:

In parallel, you would have the whole 15V across both bulbs. In series, the 15V is across both bulbs = 7.5V per bulb.
Right you are. I had forgotten about that recent change to Ohm's law. I wish they would leave that alone...

Jack
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