Originally Posted by wmw

Hi Candu1,
What kind of "feet" do you have on your drone?

Cheers
Max

7.8" reusable cable ties. It doesn't have to be reusable as long as you select the stiff ones. See http://www.ardrone-flyers.com/forum/...p=13639#p13639

Originally Posted by miru

You might be able to make it work for the control channel up to the drone, but the downlink is definitely too slow (9600 baud) for any original navdata. You can forget video on that link as well.

how fast of a system would be needed for it to communicate both ways ? i have a few programs on my computer that run the ar drone wonderfully but other than adding an onboard wifi booster i cant think of another way to get better range. I would like to keep it as small and light as possible without adding much. though i guess i could just make a mini quad if i cant figure this out

EDIT : would a baud rate of 19200 work ?

Hello,

I have a problem,

When i power up de drone is starting so as it show in the readme.
But by number 6 it is hang, the led is solid green.
The drone is at that moment green motors and green led at the bottom of de drone.

I have a resistor of 5.6 K Ohm and i am shure that the cables are good and on the right place.

Does any one now what i am doing wrong?

Originally Posted by badboy14

how fast of a system would be needed for it to communicate both ways ? i have a few programs on my computer that run the ar drone wonderfully but other than adding an onboard wifi booster i cant think of another way to get better range. I would like to keep it as small and light as possible without adding much. though i guess i could just make a mini quad if i cant figure this out

EDIT : would a baud rate of 19200 work ?

Assuming your programs need Navdata, you will have to intercept the Navdata stream on the drone anyway and then you can pick what your programs need, e.g. make your own Navdata packet, which could be much smaller. The drone software emits Navdata packets at 15 Hz. At 15 Hz and 19200 baud speed you can transfer up to 128 bytes. This goes to 64 bytes when you stick with the 9600 baud of the SparkFun link.
The program on the drone that receives the commands on the serial channel needs to issue a AT*PCMD and AT*REF at 25 Hz minimum to the drone software. Here you would also benefit if you use your own command packet and translate it to an AT command on the drone.

If you transfer binary Navdata and take out tag 16 (120 bytes all 0), you'll have to transfer 172 bytes at 15 Hz which requires a 25800 baud link, your closest choice is 38400 baud, so the answer to your question is: it depends on what you do.

Drone parts you may need....

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1495544

unopened brand new motor, batt, tool set , charger

my programs dont need the nav data at all to function. but i guess making my own quad would be a better option, thanks for your help Miru

Wondering if anybody has experienced this: On start up, mirumod's green LED seems to complete all the right flashes but at the end, instead of flashing ardrone's LEDs it just switches the LEDa to solid red and then switches the bottom LED to red. The arduino's green LED then stop for a short moment and then slow flashes - not the connected fast flash. I can usually get around that that by doing another restart, ie, disconnect and reconnect the battery. Sometimes it comes back at the 2nd or 3rd try. My record was 7 tries. I also tried the reset and/or pair buttons but doesn't seem to help. Eventually, it will start up OK. No problems when connecting to iTouch. I left it on the bench and try a start up once in a while without disturbing it. I tried quick or delayed battery disconnect/reconnect. So far, I was not able to spot any patterns. Here's a video taken with an iPhone showing the LED flash sequence.

mirumod intermittent connection failure (0 min 39 sec)

Originally Posted by mistersatellite

Hello,

I have a problem,

When i power up de drone is starting so as it show in the readme.
But by number 6 it is hang, the led is solid green.
The drone is at that moment green motors and green led at the bottom of de drone.

I have a resistor of 5.6 K Ohm and i am shure that the cables are good and on the right place.

Does any one now what i am doing wrong?

I have made a movie of the startup.

My big question is i have pick a 5.6 K resistor because in the drawing it say 1 - 10K, but in order topics it say 4.7K

http://youtu.be/_piTs2jBWE4

I am a newbie so maybe a I am doing something wrong here.

My Aileron / elevator is not working

All the channels are showing when I test it with a terminal program.

So, it will start (channel 5), it will response on Throttle (channel 3), It Yaw's (channel 4) but no Aileron / elevator (channels 1&2).

//Frank

PS: V0009

Originally Posted by Candu1

Wondering if anybody has experienced this: On start up, mirumod's green LED seems to complete all the right flashes but at the end, instead of flashing ardrone's LEDs it just switches the LEDa to solid red and then switches the bottom LED to red. The arduino's green LED then stop for a short moment and then slow flashes - not the connected fast flash. I can usually get around that that by doing another restart, ie, disconnect and reconnect the battery. Sometimes it comes back at the 2nd or 3rd try. My record was 7 tries. I also tried the reset and/or pair buttons but doesn't seem to help. Eventually, it will start up OK. No problems when connecting to iTouch. I left it on the bench and try a start up once in a while without disturbing it. I tried quick or delayed battery disconnect/reconnect. So far, I was not able to spot any patterns. Here's a video taken with an iPhone showing the LED flash sequence.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trvbkCln_Gk

Hello,
i had the same , at least one kabel of the connector RX was loose, had to resolder it, now the drone is working...

Hello

I am new to the forum here! Hoepfully you can give me some support, cause I have a problem using Miru's software

When I try to use the dsr008 or dsr009, I can see all channels are correctly working (when shorting pin 10). But when I fly the thing, everything works perfectly except the roll and pitch. It doesn't take a single command from my RC transmitter. It also seems the parrot cannot be set into flight mode 2 (unstabilized hover). It will always stabilize, no matter what (i test this by moving the plastic mat above which I am flying, it is following the movements in both FM's).

Any idea where I am going wrong here? Using dsr003 does work on the drone. I tested version 008 on a brand new drone, just out of box, which flies great by phone. Hope you can help, i am getting desperate

Originally Posted by nickname

Hello

I am new to the forum here! Hoepfully you can give me some support, cause I have a problem using Miru's software

When I try to use the dsr008 or dsr009, I can see all channels are correctly working (when shorting pin 10). But when I fly the thing, everything works perfectly except the roll and pitch. It doesn't take a single command from my RC transmitter. It also seems the parrot cannot be set into flight mode 2 (unstabilized hover). It will always stabilize, no matter what (i test this by moving the plastic mat above which I am flying, it is following the movements in both FM's).

Any idea where I am going wrong here? Using dsr003 does work on the drone. I tested version 008 on a brand new drone, just out of box, which flies great by phone. Hope you can help, i am getting desperate

Go through the UFO-DOCTOR tutorials and make sure your switches are working. Especially the SETUP mode, the tutorials have screenshots of what it should look like.

Originally Posted by MathiewH

Hello,
i had the same , at least one kabel of the connector RX was loose, had to resolder it, now the drone is working...

My connection between the arduino and the rx was done using wire wrap technique. I was also thinking about the possibility of a loose connection to one of the channels. I actually plugged in the solder iron yesterday to solder the connections but I didn't do it because when I checked the connections, they're all tight. This afternoon, the problem comes more and more often and after reading your post, I bit the bullet and went ahead and solder all the channel connections. I wasn't surprise that it didn't help since I always promote the tact that a wire wrap connection would be as good and reliable as a soldered connection provided that they're done properly. But I convinced myself to solder them since the connections are exposed to a lot of vibrations.

Since nothing I've so far seems to help, I then restored the sketch to the last working version - ie, pin9 active high and non-flashing. This seems to solved the problem. It has worked consistently for the last 5 power cycles.

Wondering if the issue has something to do with the flashing pin9 or is it just simply a bad sketch load the last time.

Here're pictures of my wire wrap vs soldered connections.

Wire wrap:


Soldered connection:


So now this rx is committed to the mirumod !

@FrankT I had the same problem. It was corrected with the latest firmware upgrade 1.7.4. I had been originally running 1.4.6.

That also solved my problem. Firmware 1.7.4 works, and I can confirm that 1.4.6 definitaly NOT works with dsr008 and dsr009.