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Old May 24, 2011, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helicoblast View Post
Hi M4d_D,

Thanks for your work, I'm really interested by your octo code!

Just a question:
The motors definition at the end of the code lines don't really help to figure out where is which motor...



Could you change them to more "n00b-friendly" definitions, or draw a wiring diagram?

Thanks a lot!

Bastien
here is a picture ,


i think it should be easy to understand what i mean...

now can anyone tell me how to piece the developer code together to programm the flyduino ?`

by the way , did you receive my pm paul ?
without the board it might be difficult to fly

cheers
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Old May 24, 2011, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by kinderkram View Post
Wrong thread guys!
You should ask the coder. Looks like this Octo is set up in X mode.
So looking from the top clockwise front left is the one after left front and right back sits before back right, capiche?

A plus (+) setup with 1 arm pointing to the front would be much clearer...
easy is boring , so we build our stuff ourselves

hope the picture makes it clearer for everyone
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Old May 24, 2011, 05:37 PM
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USA, MO, Smithville
Joined Oct 2008
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Bridge for PPM off D2

Once I figure out if the MultiWii1_7 code will support PPM on my dragonlink reciever I want to make sure I've got the bridging that warthox did to get PPM out of D2. I saw his pictures and it looks like the bridge goes from +vcc-->middle pin of D5---->middle pin of D2. Can someone tell me if this is right?

Respectfully posted,
Scott
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Old May 24, 2011, 06:45 PM
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Hamburg, Germany
Joined Jan 2011
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You dont need the bridge anymore
simply set the jumper for 5V, this will supply your receiver on pin 2, make the changes in the pde according your needs.
If you also want to use the ESC BEC 5V make a bridge from pin 3 to pin2 5V pin, cause your reciever is now on pin2.
Warthox changed pin 2 to 9 and ppm from 19 to 2.
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Old May 24, 2011, 09:37 PM
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Thank you sir. After I do this it'll be back off to the Multiwii thread to figure out how to change pde.

R/P
Scott
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Old May 25, 2011, 05:36 AM
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Hawaii
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What is the best way to power the Flyduino board?

Thank you very much.
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Old May 25, 2011, 06:22 AM
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Joined Aug 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeismicCWave View Post
What is the best way to power the Flyduino board?

Thank you very much.
I believe you can either power it using a 3 or 4-cell LiPo (this could be your flight pack), or you can feed 5V directly into the pad at the bottom, as shown in this diagram:



As to which is the 'best' ... I don't know ... running from an external 5V source will mean the onboard linear 5V regulator won't be running, so won't get warm / hot ... (correct?)

Cheers


David
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Old May 25, 2011, 07:41 AM
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Absolutely correct, but to suplly the cpu and some sensors shouldnt be a problem for the onboard reg.
I still think for a low power device like the flyduino is a lienar regulator is the way to go.
Switching supplys can be troublesome, can, dont have to.
There are quite a lot powering options, easiest is to take a BEC 5V or the onboard regulator, but a external switching supply should work too.
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Old May 25, 2011, 11:20 AM
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We received the Flyduino last week and have since connected WMP+ and Nunchuk. MultiWii uploaded to the board OK but we're still waiting on delivery for ESCs and motors so we can't build the full quad yet.

I'd like to know what we should expect to see on screen with Flyduino connected to the computer via FTDI.

I mean if I move one of the sensors should the change be visible in MultiWii Conf?

Thanks!

Chris
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Old May 25, 2011, 11:42 AM
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Deutschland, Schleswig-Holstein, Kiel
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Originally Posted by chrisez View Post
I mean if I move one of the sensors should the change be visible in MultiWii Conf?

Thanks!

Chris
yes.

dont forget to click "start" in gui
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Old May 25, 2011, 12:29 PM
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Hawaii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogster View Post
I believe you can either power it using a 3 or 4-cell LiPo (this could be your flight pack), or you can feed 5V directly into the pad at the bottom, as shown in this diagram:



As to which is the 'best' ... I don't know ... running from an external 5V source will mean the onboard linear 5V regulator won't be running, so won't get warm / hot ... (correct?)

Cheers


David
Thank you David. I found the the image very helpful.
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Old May 25, 2011, 12:54 PM
HeliAP'er!
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Surrey, UK
Joined Aug 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goofy23 View Post
Absolutely correct, but to suplly the cpu and some sensors shouldnt be a problem for the onboard reg.
I still think for a low power device like the flyduino is a lienar regulator is the way to go.
Switching supplys can be troublesome, can, dont have to.
There are quite a lot powering options, easiest is to take a BEC 5V or the onboard regulator, but a external switching supply should work too.
Fair point Paul I was struggling to find a reason why there might be an advantage to using an external regulator

The current draw will be so low that very little power will have to be dropped across the regulator = very little heat would be produced ...

Cheers


David
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Old May 25, 2011, 01:00 PM
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New Toys in the shop
www.flyduino.com
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Old May 25, 2011, 02:32 PM
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Hawaii
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I got the Flyduino working on the quad finally. It was with the GUI all this time. I just never hooked it up to a real quad because of the sensor mounting issue.

So I just took a WMP board and stuck it to the bottom of the Flyduino board instead of using another sensor BOB.

Test flights shows that it flies like any other controller using the WMP sensor.

What other 3 axis are there that is good for the Flyduino board? Any recommendations? I have tried the ITG3200 on a couple other Wii controller board and I don't like it.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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Old May 25, 2011, 04:36 PM
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Surrey, UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goofy23 View Post
New Toys in the shop
www.flyduino.com
Ohhh I want mine in black now

Looking really great Paul! Well done for all your hard work!


David
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