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Old Mar 06, 2016, 05:18 PM
Apollomark is offline
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Help!
More Dag 60 questions.

Hello

Can anyone advise me what type of dowels I can pin the head hinges on my Dag 60 with please? I've read somewhere on RC Groups that bamboo skewers are strong enough, has anyone tried these? Also could anyone tell me wether the head control rods are two pieces of threaded rod glued into each end of the carbon outer rod or is it one piece of rod throughout the carbon outer rod.

Thanks to anyone who can help me

Mark.
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Old Mar 06, 2016, 10:00 PM
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I am sure bamboo skewers would be strong enough. I have been using them for years as push rods on my planes. Everything up to the gassers. On my gyro heads I am using round tooth picks. None are as big as the DAG 60, but when I build on that is what I will use.

Jimmy
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Old Mar 07, 2016, 01:05 AM
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Thanks for that Jimmy

Any idea how the left/right pushrods to the head are made up?

Thanks

Mark.
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Old Mar 07, 2016, 02:18 AM
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I have made all my autogyro pushrods from one full length of 4-40 rod epoxied into a carbon tube with just enough threaded rod protruding for ball links screwed onto each end. So far these have survived several crashes.

These are on a DAG R1 and an RPG. Keep in mind that on the DAG R1, one pushrod controls the fore/aft tilt and one controls the side to side tilt. Although the DAG 60 is larger, both pushrods support just the roll axis so I would think (and hope!) these would work here as I have built the same for my DAG 60 that is also still under construction.

Bryan
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Old Mar 07, 2016, 12:42 PM
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Hello Bryan

I'm a bit confused still, one length of threaded bar right through the length of the carbon rod or one threaded rod in each end? Just wondering how you stop the glue getting onto the threads if it is one complete threaded rod right through the carbon rod. Hope this makes sense!

Thanks

Mark.
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Old Mar 07, 2016, 03:47 PM
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So far I've used one threaded rod the entire length of the pushrod. I put the epoxy on the rod, leaving about 3/4" of the far end (the end you would slide into the carbon rod first) un-glued to keep the threads clean. As you slide the rod in, the epoxy will bunch up. I twist the rod a little as I insert it. Watch it and wipe the excess glue before you slide the last bit of rod in so you don't bugger up the exposed threads where your ball link will go on that end. When competed, I have 1/2 to 3/4" of threads protruding from each end.

Remember to clean the threaded rod with acetone or similar before gluing. I have used both 5 minute epoxy and JB weld. Both have seemed to hold up, with the time advantage going to the 5 minute. If the carbon rod is a good fit over the threaded rod I would think the type of epoxy wouldn't matter much.

Looking more closely at my RPG, I was unable to get a fully threaded rod that was long enough. I used a Dubro pushrod wire - smooth rod with just the end threaded. On the non-threaded end I soldered on a threaded end for the ball link on that end.

Hope this helps.

Bryan
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Old Mar 07, 2016, 04:24 PM
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Bryan

Thank you very much your explanation has cleared up my confusion. I appreciate your reply

Mark.
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