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Old Oct 10, 2002, 05:25 PM
Fiberglass dont bounce???
RandyK1's Avatar
Zion, Il.
Joined Sep 2002
2,408 Posts
Use of Locktite on props.?

I am looking at my new 14x9.5 cam folder prop. and I am thinking (if this thing comes apart it could be scary). Should I use Locktite on the prop. parts (on the screws that attach the blades to the hub)and if so what # Locktite should I use (if I want to take it apart at a later date to switch blades)? Should I use Locktite on my motor mount screws also (Axi motor)?

Thanks for your help R
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Last edited by RandyK1; Oct 10, 2002 at 05:33 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2002, 05:36 PM
Electric Airplane Junkie
bhchan's Avatar
United States, CA, San Mateo
Joined Jun 2000
5,597 Posts
Randy,

Yes, it is generally good sidea to loctite the rotating part. You use almost any kind of loctite, even a drop of paint will do.

Brian, an EAJ
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Old Oct 10, 2002, 07:10 PM
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San Francisco CA
Joined Jan 2002
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Randy,
You should use locktite or thread locking compound an any rotating metal to metal fastener you don't want to vibrate apart. Be this a press fit of threaded fastener. Do not use Locktite on plastice parts as it can (and does) damage the plasticizeres in most plastics. This includes the nylon in nylock nuts!
Konrad
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Last edited by Konratz; Oct 10, 2002 at 07:19 PM.
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Old Oct 11, 2002, 07:22 AM
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fledge's Avatar
in front of p c
Joined Aug 2002
151 Posts
removal

i agree that it sounds like a wise choice to use locktite for the safety issue but how the heck do you guys remove the screws after you have used it?? from my experience;allen screws have a bad habit of striping off when trying to remove them,i cant imagine how lucky you would have to be to get them out if they were put in with loctite,,,please explain ;do you add heat to remove the screws?

fledge
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Old Oct 11, 2002, 12:42 PM
Registered User
Brampton, Canada
Joined Jun 2002
18 Posts
I use tamiya locktight on everything. Its meant for the rc car guys But I find in works great on the prop nut of my hotliner. It holds tight but can be taken apart without damaging any important parts.
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Old Oct 11, 2002, 07:53 PM
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San Francisco CA
Joined Jan 2002
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fledge,

Locktite comes in many grades, with strengths that range from that of sugar syrup to bonds that would rival a welded joint. See their web site for what will meet your needs.

To release the bond of some of the higher-strength grades will require heat. I apply heat to the fastener with a "sacrificial tool" ( Allen wrench, screw driver etc). The reason I call it a "sacrificial tool" is that I heat the tip in a flame until it's red (and this will remove the temper from the tool). I then place it in the fastener until most of the heat has been transfered to the fastener. I then wait for the fastener to cool down, as the fastener will have expanded when it was hot, making the joint even tighter. (This cool-down step is not required with fasteners that hold from the inside, such as nuts). Use a tempered tool to remove the fastener.

Good luck,

Konrad
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Last edited by Konratz; Oct 11, 2002 at 08:17 PM.
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Old Oct 12, 2002, 01:02 PM
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Joined Oct 2002
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If they still use the same color scheme, Loctite Red is very high strength, and Loctite Blue is medium strength that holds well but can be taken apart fairly easily. I like Kontratz's technique using heat, seems like a good idea for small set screws.
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Old Oct 12, 2002, 06:44 PM
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Roger P's Avatar
San Diego
Joined Aug 2002
49 Posts
A believer

I just posted a sad report under high speed/javelin. Lost half the prop in flight and vibration led to a crash. I will be a user from now on.
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Old Oct 14, 2002, 01:07 AM
Tragic case
davidleitch's Avatar
Sydney Australia
Joined Feb 2002
5,875 Posts
Yup

I'm a careless builder didn't loctite a prop and ruined a very expensive 10 cell fully molded glider wing as a result.

there are a lot of ways to go wrong in this hobby and prop blades falling off at the end of the runway on a practice landing is one of them. The two useless things in this sport:

The sky above
The runway behind
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