The Mini Drake is the newest kit offering from Park Scale Models. Modeled after Ken Willard 1950's era .049 powered Drake, the Mini Drake has been redesigned as a laser cut, electric RC kit.

Specifications:

Wingspan: 23.8" (60.5cm)
Length: 17.7" (45cm)
Wing Area: ~117 in² (754 cm²)
Flying Weight: ~4.1oz (116g)
Controls: Rudder, Elevator and Throttle
Power System: 10g brushless outrunner w/5x4.3 prop, 6A esc and a 2S 360mAh LiPo

Product page:
http://www.parkscalemodels.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=73

Park Scale Models - Mini Drake (2 min 26 sec)

Just ordered one! Looks great! Just wondering what size servo's you have for this?

A pair of 3.7g - 5g servos is what I would recommend.

I have its big brother and i had a smaller 25 nitro size and they are one of the best seaplanes i have ever owned . I dont really get into small seaplanes but i just might make a acception in this case . Hats off to Park scale models for thinking about us water flyers ! joe

Originally Posted by cracksmeup

I have its big brother and i had a smaller 25 nitro size and they are one of the best seaplanes i have ever owned . I dont really get into small seaplanes but i just might make a acception in this case . Hats off to Park scale models for thinking about us water flyers ! joe

That is one fine looking plane! I needed a water plane! I live in "Big Bear Lake"....what does that say?

Sure looks close enough with the triple tail.

Mine has a os 61 in itand it can go straight up ,it cant hover that well but neither can i . It was a kit 20 years ago by hanger desighn called a sea cruiser but they are no longer making kits . I bought a kit and have plans for another one cause i have had so much fun with this one for 16 years i had to have a back up.Mine called for a 40 to 60 and iam old but still like the speed. lol A couple friends of mine have taken a drake and took out a little diheadral and added ail and they fly great with a 15 to 20 size nitro motor or elecrtict . The drake plans are free at a couple sites. I know where they are at but iam tired now and will post some plans tomorow for you guys , Here post number 101 has a PDF for the drake and its a build thread . joe http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=467915&page=7 Cyclops this is a clipper.lol

Ordered mine as well. Can't wait for it to arrive!!! I am guessing some WBPU to waterproof the balsa?

Originally Posted by pylot2b

Ordered mine as well. Can't wait for it to arrive!!! I am guessing some WBPU to waterproof the balsa?

I'm not sure if water based Poly would cause any swelling/warping of the balsa while it's drying.

Thanks for the order!

On my prototype, I didn't seal the inside of the fuselage and water would cause the 1/32" sheeting on the bottom to swell and deform a little. Not really a big deal for the prototype, but I will be sealing the interior on the next one I build.

I'm thinking something thin (viscous) would be best to pour in, slosh around and pour out any excess in some of the inaccessible areas like under the battery hatch. Maybe something like Thompson's water seal or even Dope...but I don't know if that would have any effect on covering.

-Zeke

Waterproofing Balsa / Ply: Depending on how much water flying you do with a balsa / ply seaplane waterproofing is a problem. Eventually water WILL get in. If the wood is not properly dried out it will start to mold and then rot. Then moldy, rotten balsa / ply will eventually fail. Also, covering will keep the moistened wood from drying out and covering can develop pin holes, cracks, open seams, etc. How do I know this? I had many, many flights on a Lanier Mariner. Out of the blue the wings folded 200' up and down she went. Total loss! Upon examination of the wing joint, the wood had rotted from moisture. No complaints, the Mariner lasted over 8 years with numerous rebuilds and the cutting out of rotten wood more than once. This is why fiberglass and or plastic seaplanes are preferred amongst serious seaplane pilots, no mold or wood rot to worry about, only mechanical or electrical problems. In the summer I fly seaplanes 3-4 times per week, hardly enough time to dry out a moisture laden balsa / ply seaplane. WBPU on the inside and outside of the model will work, but will raise the grain on the first coat. Thinned sanding sealer will also work w/o raising the grain.

This is my first waterplane so I'm very interested in waterproofing too. I'm planning on using WBPU.

The kit is well cut and the wood is very nice. My wife gave me the evening off from my bathroom remodel and I was able to get the motor pod and wing built.

Marc

Marc,
Looks great! Looks like the wing is almost ready to be waterproofed with WBPU. First coat will raise the grain, let dry thoroughly, sand with 220 or above, apply second coat. If grain raises second time, lightly sand and you're done. Make sure you waterproof all inner pieces as well, not just surfaces that are covered by covering. (If I ever build a balsa / ply seaplane again, I'm thinking of applying WBPU to the pieces / laser cut sheets before they are even removed and assembled. Might be more accurate and less prone to miss something.)

As far as the WBPU. Is everyone using the spray or the brush on? Finished my wings and motor pod. Hope to get the rest finished today.

Originally Posted by Fast Freddy

...First coat will raise the grain, let dry thoroughly, sand with 220 or above, apply second coat. If grain raises second time, lightly sand and you're done. Make sure you waterproof all inner pieces as well, not just surfaces that are covered by covering...

Thanks for the tips Freddy.

Marc

Pilot2B,
I use brush on only because I feel I have more control and can get WBPU right where I want it.