Originally Posted by pabmadi

More tests...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mj2ZtzvIMs

It performs very well calibrated! Stable auto mode is very good and has saved me a couple of crashes. At one point in the video trying to do a 360 on the shaft and I was out of control, and motor give me very up, active stable mode and achieve stably bring back without problems ...

I put a keychain camera (the 808) tied a seal, but the result was horrible, vibrations everywhere, anyone have any good way to mount it without noticeable vibrations?

I used the ivibration mount for the 808 from this guy for mine and it worked pretty well. Instead of using chicken wire, I used a small piece of very thin aluminum to make the cradle. Of course it helps to have the motors/props balanced.

Anti-vibration camera mount for image stabilization - a "how to" guide (8 min 50 sec)

Ok, I got a new board from HK this morning, set it up to try and darned reciever test showed no signal to ail again ...

Took rx and wires (male/male) off to test away from the ESC's, put it all back, then find that the throttle has no signal..I must have swapped cables inadvertantly, so determined that the cause of my ongoing board misery was all due to one dodgy cable connection -I'm certain I tried swapping them before to check whether the cable was faulty, but seems I must have very stupidly overlooked something.

Soldered up a replacement cable from 2 servo extension leads, it all works perfectly now!

I used these settings, does that look ok?

gyro aileron\elevator
p gain 35
p limit 100
i gain 25
i limit 20
gyro rudder
p gain 45
p limit 100
i gain 20
i limit 20

self lev
p gain 65
p limit 65
i gain 0
i limit 0

So now I'm ready to flash the board, can anyone reccomend any newer version I can can use please?

About to balance the props and motor cans, then hopefully ready to actually FLY later this week

Thanks

Matt

Originally Posted by Matt Halton

Ok, I got a new board from HK this morning, set it up to try and darned reciever test showed no signal to ail again ...

Took rx and wires (male/male) off to test away from the ESC's, put it all back, then find that the throttle has no signal..I must have swapped cables inadvertantly, so determined that the cause of my ongoing board misery was all due to one dodgy cable connection -I'm certain I tried swapping them before to check whether the cable was faulty, but seems I must have very stupidly overlooked something.

Soldered up a replacement cable from 2 servo extension leads, it all works perfectly now!

I used these settings, does that look ok?


gyro aileron\elevator
p gain 35
p limit 100
i gain 25
i limit 20
gyro rudder
p gain 45
p limit 100
i gain 20
i limit 20

self lev
p gain 65
p limit 65
i gain 0
i limit 0

So now I'm ready to flash the board, can anyone reccomend any newer version I can can use please?

About to balance the props and motor cans, then hopefully ready to actually FLY later this week

Thanks

Matt

set the rudder P gain to 100 with it at 45 it'll turn so slow you probably won't realise it's turning. I have mine at 150

Low voltage buzzer plugs into the top right two prong connector, but you need to actually feed a positive battery terminal to the unpopulated point on the board to the left of the yellow item.

http://fpvstockholm.se/?p=1569

Originally Posted by brontide

Low voltage buzzer plugs into the top right two prong connector, but you need to actually feed a positive battery terminal to the unpopulated point on the board to the left of the yellow item.

http://fpvstockholm.se/?p=1569

That was very helpful, thanks, I'll get working on that too

Matt

Originally Posted by Rotorhead0207

set the rudder P gain to 100 with it at 45 it'll turn so slow you probably won't realise it's turning. I have mine at 150

Many thanks, will do that!

Matt

That plugs into the Peizo Output on the KK2 board. The red wire is closest to the mounting hole.



It will beep when you arm, and disarm your board. Also in 1.2 the board beeps continually when it is armed and the throttle is at idle. Its a good reminder not to walk up to your Tri when the board is armed.

Thanks again, that clears things up nicely. Should I upgrade the stock firmware for initial flights, or can you reccomend a better version for tri noobs?

Originally Posted by Matt Halton

Thanks again, that clears things up nicely. Should I upgrade the stock firmware for initial flights, or can you reccomend a better version for tri noobs?

firmware v1.2 has some improvements over 1.0 for tricopter yaw setups. There is servo filtering that can help with some servo's.

I didn't have to mess with any of that with my Tricopter. I notice it flys just the same on 1.2 as it did with 1.0.

I would recommend updating to 1.2. There are only 2 versions available... KK's and Shane's. Shane's just activated some code that KK wrote into the firmware, that helps fix auto level. However there are still some bugs. Without auto-level active, both firmwares are identical.

firmware v1.2 has some improvements over 1.0 for tricopter yaw setups. There is servo filtering that can help with some servo's.

I didn't have to mess with any of that with my Tricopter. I notice it flys just the same on 1.2 as it did with 1.0.

I would recommend updating to 1.2. There are only 2 versions available... KK's and Shane's. Shane's just activated some code that KK wrote into the firmware, that helps fix auto level. However there are still some bugs. Without auto-level active, both firmwares are identical.

Thankyou for that information, much appreciated.

Originally Posted by Matt Halton

Thankyou for that information, much appreciated.

as most kk boards don't arm the rudder till throttle is off the bottom what I'd do is plug your rudder servo into the rudder channel on the rx and then go into your tx and adjust the atv or end point adjustment so the servo has about 20 degrees of tilt either way then plug it back into the kk board that will give you lots of rudder when airborne and also give yourself some expo on all three axis so you don't end up in a pio crash right off the bat.

Originally Posted by Rotorhead0207

as most kk boards don't arm the rudder till throttle is off the bottom what I'd do is plug your rudder servo into the rudder channel on the rx and then go into your tx and adjust the atv or end point adjustment so the servo has about 20 degrees of tilt either way then plug it back into the kk board that will give you lots of rudder when airborne and also give yourself some expo on all three axis so you don't end up in a pio crash right off the bat.

Thanks, I'd hate to stuff this in, so that sounds like a plan..I have been flying a Blade mSR and WL V911 micro heli's a lot, and wondering if this experience will help much?

Cheers for the great tips

Matt

Hi Matt I flew my Tri on both original V1 and V1.2, flies the same.

I di alter all the default setting for gains to match those I had on V1, as the V1.2 defaults would be to low with my Flashed ESC's. The defaults from V1 flew fine.

Be aware the first time you lift off, just feed enough power to get it light and see if it want to yaw in one direction.

If it does it means you will need to invert the Gyro rate on Ch4 (yaw) from 100 to -100 or visa versa.

Listed under point 14 on first post Q&A.

I have a question, it's probably down in the thread somewhere but,
I am setting up the quad in X conf. I have 4 HK Blue Series 30a SimonK flashed ESC's. Is best to calibrate all the ESC's together or seperate? Should these be set to medium or high on the board.
Thanks
FE

Originally Posted by FalconEddie

I have a question, it's probably down in the thread somewhere but,
I am setting up the quad in X conf. I have 4 HK Blue Series 30a SimonK flashed ESC's. Is best to calibrate all the ESC's together or seperate? Should these be set to medium or high on the board.
Thanks
FE

They should be set to high and should be calibrated through the kk as well