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Old Nov 28, 2012, 10:40 AM
Scotsman in Germany
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Germany, BY, Schwabach
Joined Oct 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilGerrard View Post
I just received my two V911's from BG after a month and a half. They sent me the old version with the new version charger:/ Good thing my AC680 showed up and saved the day. I can't believe how quick and responsive. I have to set a throttle curve on my DH 9116 tx to keep it off the ceiling. They both got the CF gear. I haven't decided which on will get the fly bar mod.
How have you set your throttle curve? I've tried everything from 25, 50, 75, 100% to 15, 40, 65, 100% to 10, 30 60, 100% and can't get friendly with the response time of the throttle. There always seems to be a bit of a time lag which leaves me having to anticipate too far in advance, whereas with the stock TX it responds more or less immediately.

Cheers
Tigg
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 10:46 AM
Sir Crashalot
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Joined Oct 2011
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Originally Posted by bulesz View Post
Yes my question would be about this too...so hopefully I will be a new member of the VIP club of the V911 owners... Is there anything what I need to replace on the stock heli? (like motor, head..etc...)

?

Many thanks,
Bulesz

EDIT: mkaaay, Im reading the first post now...
If you have the wl toys version, the first thing to go is probably the skids, unless you never crash. Replacing skids, however, does require some wire cutting and/or soldering. Next on the list may be flybar weights, which some have reported to come off easily during a crash.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 10:47 AM
Different fly 4 different guy
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Canada, BC, Salmon Arm
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboSerg View Post
Anyone know if BRAVO SX 320A motor will fit the V911?
Here is the link:
http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/in...oducts_id=8271
When I replaced the stock motor in my Solo Pro 260a with the Bravo SX motor, I had to also use a higher C battery. Only then was there a noticeable power increase.

With my larger Solo Pro 328a, I replaced the stock motor with the Xtreme 120sr motor. Again a battery upgrade was necessary.

More powerful motors draw more power. I think that is why there is so much 'ymmv' going around.

regards . . . g
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 10:53 AM
Scotsman in Germany
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Germany, BY, Schwabach
Joined Oct 2012
1,548 Posts
Bummer!

Got a slip in from the post office yesterday and went down there today thinking I was going to pick up flybars and batteries and could get my e-rix repaired. Turned out it was just a bunch of tail motors which I hopefully won't need for a few weeks yet

On a brighter note, in the past few days an O/B RTF and a yellow BNF have arrived in the country and should be landing at customs soon

Funny how a couple of weeks ago I was just happy to have a heli to fly, and now it's a tragedy only having one operational heli... I can see this getting critical
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilMcCracken View Post
Has anyone replaced the tail fin on their v911?
Mine is taped in place and I am stripping my crashed v911 for parts.
Can you get the tail fin off with out destroying it? What about replacing the tail rotor mount?
It looks like its glued in place.
If it were me, I would just cut off the bad one and cut the other parts fin off so that its still useable and then just glue it on the tail shaft with a soft tacky type glue that has some give like some "amazing goop" (not super glue > too brittle)
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 11:00 AM
Sir Crashalot
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Originally Posted by Dark_Lord View Post
If it were me, I would just cut off the bad one and cut the other parts fin off so that its still useable and then just glue it on the tail shaft with a soft tacky type glue that has some give like some "amazing goop" (not super glue > too brittle)
Or get a spare tail fin made for the yellow or white clones. They snap on the boom w/o cutting or gluing.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 11:09 AM
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Hungary EU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stonecutter View Post
If you have the wl toys version, the first thing to go is probably the skids, unless you never crash. Replacing skids, however, does require some wire cutting and/or soldering. Next on the list may be flybar weights, which some have reposted to come off easily during a crash.
ahh...yes this looks quite fragile...

and what do you mean WL Toys version??

and what about the canopy? due as I remember from my MSR and 120SR period, I was using Xtreme canopies due they are bombproof, and the Blade stock canopies were very fragile...

http://www.xtreme-production.com/xtr...&limitstart=30

Quote:
Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962 View Post

Funny how a couple of weeks ago I was just happy to have a heli to fly, and now it's a tragedy only having one operational heli... I can see this getting critical
yes, this hobby is quite dangerously addicted....
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 11:12 AM
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*** how can I delete my post?? ***
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Thwock View Post
Hello, I'm new.
I have a question eventually. First some background.

Thanks to the information provided here by you fine people, I decided to express my mid-life crisis fairly cheaply (at first, though I've been drooling over a Blade Nano CP) using a Corter.
Welcome to the cheap addiction.
Quote:
I've lubed the bits that need lubing, and I've done manual trim (servo connector adjustment), but the result of this puzzles me. In order to get the closest to a throttle-only hover without applying any Tx trim, the swashplate inclines backwards relative to the main shaft by about 20-25 degrees, while I would expect it to be flatter. None of the linkages appear to be out of shape. The left-right trim is fairly flat.
Did it always do this, or is it new after a crash or the swim?

Check that you haven't dislodged the top/bottom of the swashplate from each other. Early corters had a big problem with this. A bad enough crash could do it to the improved swashes.

The two plastic pieces should be close to each other (0.5mm?) and parallel to each other.

You can snap the two pieces back together. If you decide to glue it, be VERY careful. It's easy to glue the bearing such that it no longer spins... Search the early part of the thread for hints on different ways to glue it without ruining it.

If it's not this, just ignore the crooked swash and enjoy the hands free hover.
You don't want to use TX trim to get the hands free hover because then when you get more members of your fleet, things get confusing.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 12:02 PM
Against Helicopter Cruelty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thwock View Post
Hello, I'm new.
I have a question eventually. First some background.

Thanks to the information provided here by you fine people, I decided to express my mid-life crisis fairly cheaply (at first, though I've been drooling over a Blade Nano CP) using a Corter. I've been happily smacking it into walls and floors for a few days and yesterday it went for a dip in a rain-filled dustbin. It appears undamaged despite my efforts. A yellow sparesmobile is in the post along with a CF mainshaft + swash.

I've lubed the bits that need lubing, and I've done manual trim (servo connector adjustment), but the result of this puzzles me. In order to get the closest to a throttle-only hover without applying any Tx trim, the swashplate inclines backwards relative to the main shaft by about 20-25 degrees, while I would expect it to be flatter. None of the linkages appear to be out of shape. The left-right trim is fairly flat.

Is this something I should be worried about? I seem to have enough throw to move it backwards pretty fast. Is there an easy correction I should apply?
From my experience, you did it right and it is fine. Remember that you are dealing with a fixed pitch helicopter, not a collective pitch. In your case, the swash plate does not need to be level at rest. What really matters is that you are able to hover hands free.

Each helicopter is made a little differently, CG is slightly off. So, after you followed the manual trimming procedure and if you were able to hover it hands free, your helicopter is trimmed, regardless of what the swash might look like at rest. That is your "neutral" position. And as long as you have a good range of control movements, I think it is a dream setup! Happy flying.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 12:27 PM
Sir Crashalot
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Joined Oct 2011
2,203 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bulesz View Post
ahh...yes this looks quite fragile...

and what do you mean WL Toys version??

and what about the canopy? due as I remember from my MSR and 120SR period, I was using Xtreme canopies due they are bombproof, and the Blade stock canopies were very fragile...

http://www.xtreme-production.com/xtr...&limitstart=30



yes, this hobby is quite dangerous addicted....
I wouldn't worry about the canopy, worst that can happen is paint getting scratched. The wl toys versions are the red/white, orange/black, and blue/white ones, they have the wimpy skids. Then there are the yellow and white versions, believed to be made by JiuChon, which have beefy skids and a more precise swash. The only drawback is they have to be rebinded when changing battery, which apparently is a hassle for people who fly w/ the 9x (or similar).
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 02:08 PM
Registered User
United Kingdom
Joined Nov 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
From my experience,..Happy flying.
Thanks to those who replied to my noob question. I've looked at it, and I think the swashplate is fine, but I was still slightly worried about elevator control range, particularly at high rate outside, so I've weighted the tail slightly with a coil of solder to allow a bit more play. No doubt this will have other aerodynamic implications, but my spares machine is turning up soon and there's still lots of tinkerng ahead. My priority is to learn orientation skills, which are not great at the moment.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 04:02 PM
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Joined Sep 2006
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Set lowest setting to 0% - which is basically off.

I had the same problem. Now I don't touch the stock TX.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962 View Post
How have you set your throttle curve? I've tried everything from 25, 50, 75, 100% to 15, 40, 65, 100% to 10, 30 60, 100% and can't get friendly with the response time of the throttle. There always seems to be a bit of a time lag which leaves me having to anticipate too far in advance, whereas with the stock TX it responds more or less immediately.

Cheers
Tigg
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 06:15 PM
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United States, NC, Morganton
Joined Nov 2012
46 Posts
I'm still waiting on the spare parts to get here so I can get flying again. I see talk about flying hands free,is that referring to just giving it throttle and it staying in one general area? If so,mine needs alot of work.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 06:33 PM
Sir Crashalot
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Joined Oct 2011
2,203 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev7274 View Post
I'm still waiting on the spare parts to get here so I can get flying again. I see talk about flying hands free,is that referring to just giving it throttle and it staying in one general area? If so,mine needs alot of work.
Hands free hovering is probably what you're referring to, indoor it's something nice to have, and can be achieved by mechanical trimming. Outside, a little forward bias might be more desirable.
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