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Old Jan 13, 2015, 02:06 AM
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kooshking's Avatar
Singapore, Singapore
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Originally Posted by nizzamms View Post
sorry to trouble u , mind u can provide us with close up picture on how to mod the servo
I will try to take more detailed pictures when I get home later today.
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Old Jan 13, 2015, 08:21 AM
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Singapore, Singapore
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See photos attached.

The photos show how the TrackStar servo is mounted. They also show the mounting of my RadioLink Receiver and 45A Trackstar ESC.
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Old Jan 15, 2015, 06:33 PM
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New Zealand, Auckland
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i personaly just kept the stock servo, the only issue i have is that it does not take very tight turns. I would recommend the l969 tyres.
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Old Jan 20, 2015, 11:23 AM
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Hi all,
First post here although I have been following this thread for a while. I just got 2 L959s for myself and my daughter for Christmas. They have been solely used in a car park near the house never for anything rough.

We went out today and something weird is going on with my car. It ran fine for about 30 sec before I lost the ability to control the forward and reverse throttle although I still had control of the servo. Turning the car and transmitter on and off gave me a couple more seconds of throttle and then died again. I tried just running it while holding it and it never died but as soon as it was more than 7-8ft away no motor control. My first thought was the receiver but as I still had servo control I am a bit stumped.

I am a complete noob when it comes to rc so I was hoping someone on here might be able to point me in the right direction in regard to the problem. My daughter's has already started making a less than satisfactory high pitched grindy noise so I am guessing she has already eaten up her reduction gears. As a second question this was my first order from banggood so I was wondering what the likelihood is of them doing something about the problems considering we have had them for less than a month?

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated,
Bailey
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Old Jan 20, 2015, 12:11 PM
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Hi I had the same problem the first time it was the battery,( just charge it again fully) if that doesnt work it may be the esc.(the board with all the cables).
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Old Jan 20, 2015, 12:25 PM
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Cheers for the quick reply,
I didn't even think about it being the battery, I charged it after using it last week so assumed it would be ok now. I will give it a charge and see how it goes. If it is the esc I think it may be warranty time as I doubt my electrical competence and frankly they should last longer than 26 days/ 7-8 15min drives.
Still when they work these things are so much fun!
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Old Jan 21, 2015, 10:56 AM
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Singapore, Singapore
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Originally Posted by JA8231 View Post
i personaly just kept the stock servo, the only issue i have is that it does not take very tight turns. I would recommend the l969 tyres.
The Turnigy servo and servo arm provided longer throws. You can get more steering by drilling out part of the steering knuckle.
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Old Jan 21, 2015, 03:05 PM
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Thanks man
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Old Jan 21, 2015, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Bailsofhay View Post
Cheers for the quick reply,
I didn't even think about it being the battery, I charged it after using it last week so assumed it would be ok now. I will give it a charge and see how it goes. If it is the esc I think it may be warranty time as I doubt my electrical competence and frankly they should last longer than 26 days/ 7-8 15min drives.
Still when they work these things are so much fun!
Yeah because that's what happens with mine when it runs out of battery I turn it off and on again and it goes for a few seconds, I completely agree that they are so much fun. I have the l969 wheels and it performs so much better.
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Old Jan 22, 2015, 02:50 AM
Pysy ilmassa, perkele!
Finland, Köyliö
Joined Jun 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bailsofhay View Post
Cheers for the quick reply,
I didn't even think about it being the battery, I charged it after using it last week so assumed it would be ok now. I will give it a charge and see how it goes. If it is the esc I think it may be warranty time as I doubt my electrical competence and frankly they should last longer than 26 days/ 7-8 15min drives.
Still when they work these things are so much fun!
Yes, the ESC has built-in low voltage protection in it, so it behaves just like this when the battery runs out. The steering servo, however, needs much less power, so it continues to work long after the ESC refuses to feed the motor.

There are a couple of possible reasons:

Yes, the ESC's protection circuit may be dead, in which case BG may or may not agree to replace it. The Chinese viewpoint to warranty length is very different than us westerns' and we are talking about very cheap products after all. It helps if you contact them with simple English, keep your cool and be polite and attach a short video where you show the problem and also provide your order number.

To rule out the problem being the ESC, first check the wires from ESC to motor, the connectors in the motor leads trend to get dirty and if they cause a voltage drop, the ESC will think that the battery is empty. Same goes to the battery connector.

Then try to charge your battery full and if the problem persists, try your daughter's battery to see if it's your battery and not the ESC. Cheap LiPos trend to have some bad ones amount them and if a LiPo battery is even slightly "buffed" (bloated), stop using it immediately and discard it. It has become installed and a 1000mAh LiPo has about the same incendiary power than a liter of gasoline.

If the other car runs without problems, then it probably isn't the charger, but it doesn't hurt to check the voltage of the batteries when the charger says they are fully charged. It should be pretty close to 7.4V and if the voltmeter says 7.3 or lower on both batteries, then the charger is probably to blame. In any case, a good charger is a must at some point of the hobby and an iMax B6 for example is an inexpensive way to speed up charging and maximize your battery life.

As for the gearbox, these cars tend to eat those gears like bread. I order them like 5 at a time, I also have superglued the metal axle to the gearbox housing, because if and when the axle turns in its mounting hole, it gradually largens it creating excessive play in the gear mesh and making the gears strip even easier.

I have both an L959 and an L202 and with the gearbox of the L202 (brushless L959), before I drove it the first time I took the gearbox completely apart, cleansed all the bits and pieces with dish soap and a toothbrush to remove all the grease and then put it back together gluing the chromed metal axle in place and putting some quality PTFE (teflon) grease in the differential and the whole gearbox before assembling it again. Any reasonable thin, (but not liquid) grease will do, you want it to be everywhere but not too much to cause power loss. I also used some silicone to completely seal the 'box from dirt.

The above was less work than it seems written, and I haven't had to open it since, despite my L202 having loads more strain to the gears due to the enormous power of the brushless motor and bigger rear wheels to drive. I also use it a lot more than my L959, but still I have to change the gears in the 959 quite often.

The other parts that I've had to replace/fix/change to both of the cars... Well, that's another story and you can read about it from the previous posts. These cars are tons of fun, but just like the fanius brand cars, they will eventually break when you drive them hard. They are just much cheaper to repair.
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Old Jan 22, 2015, 09:17 AM
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I had a charge of the battery yesterday and it seemed ok but I only ran it for 5min. I could have sworn I gave it a full charge before but it is very possible I had a brain fart moment and only charged my daughters one. I am planning on giving it a good run over the weekend and crack out the multimeter periodically to check the discharge rate to see if the battery is playing up.

It seems I have got the upgrade bug too just received my new metal dogbones and rear wheels as I found like most everyone else the stock ones are rubbish. I may try getting some foam inserts to see If I can get some more life out of the old ones by raising the centre tread so it doesn't ride the edges. Hopefully my new reduction gears and bearings wont be far behind.

Thanks for the warning about the Li-po bloating scenario, for some reason I thought they were a pretty safe alternative to Li-ions which I watch like a hawk when charging so from now on I will only charge when I'm in the room.

The cheap parts are one of the main reasons I chose this model and considering I have already had to rebuild the front end on my daughters one when she caught her front wheel on a parked cars tyre going full speed it seems a wise decision(rare for me).

I did notice that they are not all the same chassis-wise, when I was looking at them in detail I noticed that where the front suspension mount meets the turning platen mine just screws into the platen where my daughter's goes through the platen and into mounts built into the chassis which I think is a much more stable design.

When I rebuild the gearbox will marine grease work? I know some greases are not plastic friendly just not sure about marine and the only other one I have on hand is copperslip which is a big no no with moving parts made of soft materials.

I am starting to get the impression this hobby will be very time/ wallet consuming but fun and well worth it. Now if I can only convince the wife.
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Old Jan 22, 2015, 11:27 AM
Pysy ilmassa, perkele!
Finland, Köyliö
Joined Jun 2013
357 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bailsofhay View Post
I had a charge of the battery yesterday and it seemed ok but I only ran it for 5min. I could have sworn I gave it a full charge before but it is very possible I had a brain fart moment and only charged my daughters one. I am planning on giving it a good run over the weekend and crack out the multimeter periodically to check the discharge rate to see if the battery is playing up.

It seems I have got the upgrade bug too just received my new metal dogbones and rear wheels as I found like most everyone else the stock ones are rubbish. I may try getting some foam inserts to see If I can get some more life out of the old ones by raising the centre tread so it doesn't ride the edges. Hopefully my new reduction gears and bearings wont be far behind.

Thanks for the warning about the Li-po bloating scenario, for some reason I thought they were a pretty safe alternative to Li-ions which I watch like a hawk when charging so from now on I will only charge when I'm in the room.

The cheap parts are one of the main reasons I chose this model and considering I have already had to rebuild the front end on my daughters one when she caught her front wheel on a parked cars tyre going full speed it seems a wise decision(rare for me).

I did notice that they are not all the same chassis-wise, when I was looking at them in detail I noticed that where the front suspension mount meets the turning platen mine just screws into the platen where my daughter's goes through the platen and into mounts built into the chassis which I think is a much more stable design.

When I rebuild the gearbox will marine grease work? I know some greases are not plastic friendly just not sure about marine and the only other one I have on hand is copperslip which is a big no no with moving parts made of soft materials.

I am starting to get the impression this hobby will be very time/ wallet consuming but fun and well worth it. Now if I can only convince the wife.
Cheap LiPos have lemons among them, but I still consider them rare enough that the price makes up for that. Serious racing is another thing, but in backyard bashing the el cheapos are fine as long as one keeps an eye on them. I find that a Lion Power 2200mAh at BG is a perfect choice for my L202 (after cutting off a bit from inside of the battery compartment), but I had to make an adapter cord to use it with my L959.

LiPos are, IMHO, much more dangerous than Li-Ion, because they can be so easily short-circuited, punched or otherwise mechanically damaged and they contain much more flammable material inside. Basically they use hydrocarbons as a catalyst, hence the comparison to gasoline. Personally I always charge them in an old kettle with the lid on. All the same, they are a great power source and I still consider them safer than methanol and nitro...

A tip: if and when you are starting to build up a supply of lipos, the best place to store them is the refrigerator. they will last much longer when stored in a cool place and they only need a few minutes at room temperature to give full power. For long-term storing the ideal is to charge them at about 80% full and then keep them in the fridge.

A second tip: The Wife is quite easy to convince if you absent-mindedly mutter something like "should I start collecting and tasting whiskeys and beers or should I maybe make this RC thing my hobby instead..."

EDIT: As for the marine grase, it should be of relatively low viscosity so it doesn't just gradually collect to the corners of the 'box and also doesn't stuck the differential too tight. It is, however, posible to make a "poor man's limited slip diff" by filling it with thicker grease (because the diff is a separate sealed unit), but the car will also lose some maneuverability in the process.
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Old Yesterday, 07:58 PM
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Malaysia, Johor, Johor Bahru
Joined Oct 2007
135 Posts
some video of my L212 /L969 brushless bashing,

WL Toy L212 Brushless Bashing (1 min 31 sec)


nice... but the metal dogbone is too soft for hard landing , it will be bend, stripped from tyre and missing , quite frustrating
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Old Today, 01:40 AM
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New Zealand, Auckland
Joined Jan 2015
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what battery would you recommend for the l202(T plug I think).
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