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Old Feb 18, 2012, 03:12 PM
member of TheBlindHawks
careyer's Avatar
Joined Feb 2011
143 Posts
No idea,

It was a lot of work designing it and doing numerous iterations to make everything fit like a charm so that the camera would only rest in one position and not wobble inside the mount + it is some(!) work to do the milling.

I think 20$ would be a fair price + shipping (1-3$ depends where you come from).


Cheers!
careyer
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 03:27 PM
Registered User
Brasil, PR, Curitiba
Joined Aug 2011
20 Posts
Hi guys,


An easy and simple way to fit the wide-angle and fish-eye lenses without Permanently glue the metal ring or damage (cut, sand, etc..) the camera case
is fit it with 3M double-sided tape.

I First removed the original adhesive of the ring by sticking it to a strong Adhesive tape and separating them. The double-sided tape is thick
and rubbery and adheres well to the rounded front of the camera, and can be removed easily without leave any residue. This method works well with
the #11 original (and #16 of course) and #11 Jumbo Audi but doesn't work with Jumbo toyota case. I don't have the Jumbo BMW to test.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 07:42 AM
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Giorg's Avatar
Italia, Lombardia, Milano
Joined May 2011
37 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Very exciting news for me

Remember those two cameras of mine where the yellow LED was solid?

One had a truly glued CMOS cable and the larger chips also had brown glue on each corner. On one of the cameras I had previously removed the SPI memory chip and re-programmed the chip with a memory dump.

Well, as of today they both work again . I had ordered 2 CMOS modules 10 days ago. The new lens' have no glue, so I still need to focus them, but both cameras WORK!!

It was not an easy job removing the glued cable, and without the proper equipment I would think one would need a lot of patience. I ended up using a hot air soldering gun and partially melted the cable from the rear so I could peel it away from the copper wires inside. I wasn't careful enough because the microphone also dropped off! Then I used a lot of flux and Chip Quik to make a large cold (240C) solder blob. I could then pull the stripped cable away with a pair of tweezers without lifting any tracks on the board. I cleaned up the mess using lots of acetone. Soldering on the new CMOS modules was an easy job in comparison.

On one of the cameras I had previously already removed the CMOS module and also lifted a track. It was no problem to bridge the broken track.

So, if after turning on your camera you only get a solid yellow LED, i.e. the yellow LED remains on, this is almost certainly due to a defective CMOS module!

When I connected everything up, both cameras didn't react. Nothing! After some time pressing the power button and the reset button I managed to get the yellow LED to blink - which was correct, because I had forgotten to insert the card. When I inserted the card, the camera worked!

Great satisfaction
excellent! so the bad cmos/bad soldering theory is confirmed!

enjoy your hard work !
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 08:51 AM
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Joined Nov 2010
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Originally Posted by Giorg View Post
excellent! so the bad cmos/bad soldering theory is confirmed!

enjoy your hard work !
Absolutely. I'm sure it was a weak CMOS connector cable and one or more cracked wires. Steady yellow LED = replace CMOS module.

While the camera was not working I handled it very roughly indeed to try and find the fault. It got sprayed with freeze spray many times, I forgot it in the freezer, it was prodded and pushed. Normally I do not handle gadgets this badly, but I was certain it could not be repaired. You can imagine my surprise when BOTH cameras worked again after soldering on the new CMOS module.

I now believe the camera is very robust, but the CMOS cable is the weak point.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 09:37 AM
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Prof100's Avatar
Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
15,863 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Absolutely. I'm sure it was a weak CMOS connector cable and one or more cracked wires. Steady yellow LED = replace CMOS module.

While the camera was not working I handled it very roughly indeed to try and find the fault. It got sprayed with freeze spray many times, I forgot it in the freezer, it was prodded and pushed. Normally I do not handle gadgets this badly, but I was certain it could not be repaired. You can imagine my surprise when BOTH cameras worked again after soldering on the new CMOS module.

I now believe the camera is very robust, but the CMOS cable is the weak point.
Yes, I wrecked one of the new lens modules I bought when installing it in a #16. It was the cable that failed. The second lens module worked fine. So, I will fit the new wider AOV lens to my #11.

Bill
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 12:44 PM
Can we lift the embargo?
kenstogie's Avatar
menands flats, NY
Joined Dec 2006
1,539 Posts
Perhaps it's listed here somewhere in the 1000+ postings (lol)


Where can I get a HD keychain for my rc flights??


I know they are on ebay but as I recall there were some bad vendors so I would feel better if it were from a vendor that a fellow RCGROUPS member got his from.

I have the old standard def version which is OK but would LOVE High Def THANKS !!!!
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 12:50 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenstogie View Post
Perhaps it's listed here somewhere in the 1000+ postings (lol)


Where can I get a HD keychain for my rc flights??


I know they are on ebay but as I recall there were some bad vendors so I would feel better if it were from a vendor that a fellow RCGROUPS member got his from.

I have the old standard def version which is OK but would LOVE High Def THANKS !!!!
read the first few posts - esp. #2
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 12:51 PM
Can we lift the embargo?
kenstogie's Avatar
menands flats, NY
Joined Dec 2006
1,539 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
read the first few posts - esp. #2
I did notice those but they were a few month old. Many thanks TOM!
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 05:17 PM
Reap the wild wind
headlessagain's Avatar
Bristol,UK
Joined Feb 2007
3,766 Posts
You can rest assured that Tom will amend any of the information when need be. If it's a few month's old it means that there aren't any changes
You might like to see Tom's other thread for the newer #16 HD version.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1556994&pp=100. Post 2 contains details of ebay sellers.
Andy
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 03:13 PM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2012
4 Posts
Hello dear members,

I'm a newbie, please be gentle with me .
I have a question about my 808. I was wondering how can enable continuous recording? As far as I know I ordered the #11 model, and it has "50 minutes close and continue".

Even though I have it connected to a power source , with a 8 GB micro-sd card onboard, it only records 1 file , 2.6 GB in size, 50 minutes long. It is 1280*720 though.
Then it goes to back to the standby-mode with a yellow led being lit full time.

Obviously, this is not the full capacity of the memory card being used.

I'm hesitant to upgrade the firmware, but how can I force it to record continuously (Make multiple files until the card is full/the battery runs out) ?
Might it be something that is 'just not possible' with my camera? If so, how can I look this up to confirm?

Your help would be much appreciated, since the possibility of recording up to 10 hours (with a 32GB card, which I have yet to buy) was something that greatly attracted me to this cam.
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 03:27 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
16,609 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrainSurgeon View Post
Hello dear members,

I'm a newbie, please be gentle with me .
I have a question about my 808. I was wondering how can enable continuous recording? As far as I know I ordered the #11 model, and it has "50 minutes close and continue".

Even though I have it connected to a power source , with a 8 GB micro-sd card onboard, it only records 1 file , 2.6 GB in size, 50 minutes long. It is 1280*720 though.
Then it goes to back to the standby-mode with a yellow led being lit full time.

Obviously, this is not the full capacity of the memory card being used.

I'm hesitant to upgrade the firmware, but how can I force it to record continuously (Make multiple files until the card is full/the battery runs out) ?
Might it be something that is 'just not possible' with my camera? If so, how can I look this up to confirm?

Your help would be much appreciated, since the possibility of recording up to 10 hours (with a 32GB card, which I have yet to buy) was something that greatly attracted me to this cam.
What are you using for an external power source? You need one with the "special cable" (see FAQs in post #3 about this). If you haven't already done so, read the first 4 posts thoroughly while there.
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 03:52 PM
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Joined Feb 2012
4 Posts
Tom,

I have indeed read the first posts. I believe I do have a 'special' cable. There were 2 cables in the package (as was the car lighter extension) , and I used the short one as recommended.

First I set the camera to record, and only then plugged in the power. The light turned red, as it should happen according to the description. (charging while recording,right?)

The power sources I used are a wall socket with an iPod charger usb port, and a usb battery pack that should work according to several sources.
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 04:23 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
16,609 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrainSurgeon View Post
Tom,

I have indeed read the first posts. I believe I do have a 'special' cable. There were 2 cables in the package (as was the car lighter extension) , and I used the short one as recommended.

First I set the camera to record, and only then plugged in the power. The light turned red, as it should happen according to the description. (charging while recording,right?)

The power sources I used are a wall socket with an iPod charger usb port, and a usb battery pack that should work according to several sources.
It sounds to me like you are not using the special cable. You mentioned you got two cables with a car plug adaptor, like in the attached picture on the left, I assume? If so, the correct "special" one is the flat two wire cable shown plugged into the socket. I don't think it's shorter than the regular, round standard USB cable. The only place the "shorter" cable would be the special cable would be the one that comes with an external lipo power supply from the eBay vendor who sold the camera, like in the second picture, on the left. So maybe you can be clearer on what you have and what you used?
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 05:01 PM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2012
4 Posts
I appear to have the package on the left, but with one detail that's different.
The 2 cables I have are equally thick. When i used a scalpel to carefully slice them open a little I noticed I have 2 of what is in the picture called a USB cable! 1 is a little shorter than the other, so maybe that's where the confusion came from, since I tried both.

I will try to replicate the 'special' cable by following your schematic and picture linked to in the FAQ , leaving only the +5V and Earth wires. I think that will solve my problem.

Thank you for the quick and helpful service by the way! Especially since this is a foreign product troubleshooting can be a bit hard, but this site is very enlightening. Thanks for helping a fellow hobbyist out!
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 05:24 PM
CURIOSITY Has Landed!
Fugitive_Bill's Avatar
Sydney, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
1,097 Posts
What a delightful fellow TrainSurgureon is. I wonder what type of surgery he does on the trains!

I too thank Tom for all his hard work on this thread making the 808 cameras easier to operate, understand and use.
And of course thanks to everyone else who submits their thoughts.
Just thought I'd throw that out there to reinforce how all the work is truly appreciated.
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