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Old Sep 11, 2012, 09:06 PM
Stop me before I build again!
United States, NY, Albany
Joined Sep 2012
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Originally Posted by Ricomon View Post
I bought my V911 BNF, V929 Tx, and spare batteries from BangGood on Sunday, when all were listed as "in stock". Since Monday morning my order status still says "backorder". All items I ordered still show as "in stock" on the site.

Is this just a delay because of the Chinese New Year, or is something really out of stock? I'm not angry, just bummed. Sorry if I sound like a whiner, but I was hoping to take it on Vacation in a month.

Rick
Good luck, I ordered one RTF v911 from the us warehouse and another other from china almost two weeks ago. The v911 is here and the rest of the stuff is somewhere in limbo, says shipped but no status updates on any carrier site.

New years was the end of January, mid-Autumn day and national day are coming up.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 09:40 PM
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USA, SC, Charleston
Joined Oct 2002
421 Posts
Oops, I had no idea when their new year was. So I guess this "backorder" is just because they don't like me. I'll give it another day or two to see if it comes off of backorder.

Thanks,
Rick
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 09:44 PM
KDS450QS(ZYX4),V977,CX-20
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United States, CA, Monterey
Joined Apr 2012
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Mid Autumn Festival Holiday - Sep 30

National Day - Oct 1 to 7
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 10:08 PM
What Do You Drive?
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United States, PA, Folsom
Joined Jan 2012
704 Posts
I've been waiting for a yellow V911 for over a month from Banggood and with some of the bad reviews about it being slower, heavier and with a twitchy servo, I think I threw some good money to bad. Better would have been but a real V911 and do a canopy switch purchased from FireCabbage/Aliexpress.

I was surfing thru TY and I came across a WL 319, infrared, a coaxial heli that squirts water but it seems to me that the heli was just p-e-e-ing on the floor, great way to piss off the wife.

HeliPal.com - WL V319 Water Jetter Helicopter Test (3 min 4 sec)


After a few months, I finally got some leeway, open up a few boxes and run heli's around the office and FINALLY take the V929 outside for a forth battery this weekend.

But the wife apparently has a better idea and that leaves me to abandon my plan and go into an alternate direction.

Further details on my blog.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Ribble View Post
When a tail motor dies, I cut the wires at the tail motor, replace the tail motor, scrape the enamel off the wires. and solder.

When a tail boom breaks, I wrap it with paper towel and superglue the whole mess.

If you put the tail motor wires on the outside of the tail boom, nail polish is good to hold it and protect the wires.

A product called Un-Cure is a debonder that turns the cyanoacrylate (CA) glue into a gel, but you have to keep poking the glued part, wiping, adding more Un-Cure.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8458
I had the wires in the boom shaft but the piece that held the motor seemed like it was tighter than the original. That is where the wires got damaged, pinched between the motor and the plastic housing.

Thanks for the input, will see what it looks like this time (when I get everything) Next time I am not flying into the house at full speed!
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 10:16 PM
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Ricomon's Avatar
USA, SC, Charleston
Joined Oct 2002
421 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pancari View Post
I was surfing thru TY and I came across a WL 319, infrared, a coaxial heli that squirts water but it seems to me that the heli was just p-e-e-ing on the floor, great way to piss off the wife.
That is TOO funny! Their next model will slice, dice, and make mounds and mounds of julienne fries.

Rick
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 11:38 PM
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Joined Sep 2012
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I recently got a Blue/White RTF V911 from Amazon ($43 + $3.99 for one-day prime). I guess I was unlucky, as I got one of the ones that flew pretty bad out of the box. I just couldn't trim the rudder to perfectly straight without a slow drift, and that drift appears to change directions when the battery gets low.

The biggest issue, is that it was sliding left almost full bore. I had it trimmed 100% to the right, and I still had to fight it with constant right cyclic. I checked the entire heli, double checked all screws, and everything was ok. Then, I noticed the left/right cyclic servo horn was angled just below centered, while the other side was angled slightly above centered. Unscrewed the servo horn, and moved it up a few teeth, and that seemed to help. It flies now with only one or 2 notches of right cyclic trim. I just wish I hadn't crashed it so many times figuring that out :P It really shouldn't have left the factory this way, but what can you expect from a cheap heli. I bet the average person buying it from amazon would have returned it, rather than trying to fix it. It was that bad.

It also definitely has some TBE going on. It tends to be worse indoors. This heli is not known for having TBE, which is why I bought it, as my Blade 120SR has severe TBE, and I thought I'd have a backup to fly while I figure it out. My luck is not great with heli's lately. I'm about to just buy a flybarless model, since I can't seem to get rid of TBE on either of my Heli's.

I just wanted to make this post in case anyone had similar problems.

Also, I thought these were supposed to come setup for "stable flight"? I just noticed, mine has the head linkages on the longer balls, and pushrods on the outer servo links.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 12:40 AM
Registered User
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Jun 2012
1,265 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cam94z28 View Post
I recently got a Blue/White RTF V911 from Amazon ($43 + $3.99 for one-day prime). I guess I was unlucky, as I got one of the ones that flew pretty bad out of the box. I just couldn't trim the rudder to perfectly straight without a slow drift, and that drift appears to change directions when the battery gets low.

The biggest issue, is that it was sliding left almost full bore. I had it trimmed 100% to the right, and I still had to fight it with constant right cyclic. I checked the entire heli, double checked all screws, and everything was ok. Then, I noticed the left/right cyclic servo horn was angled just below centered, while the other side was angled slightly above centered. Unscrewed the servo horn, and moved it up a few teeth, and that seemed to help. It flies now with only one or 2 notches of right cyclic trim. I just wish I hadn't crashed it so many times figuring that out :P It really shouldn't have left the factory this way, but what can you expect from a cheap heli. I bet the average person buying it from amazon would have returned it, rather than trying to fix it. It was that bad.

And just FWIW, out of the box it had kind of a TBE effect going on when I had it outside. This heli is not known for having TBE, which is why I bought it as my Blade 120SR has severe TBE, and I'll have a backup to fly while I figure it out. I found a round piece of flashing between the blade and the blade grip that looks like it wasn't removed after the molding process. A few twists and problem solved. I wouldn't think this would cause TBE, but it seems to be gone now.

I just wanted to make this post in case anyone had similar problems.

Also, I thought these were supposed to come setup for "stable flight"? I just noticed, mine has the head linkages on the longer balls, and pushrods on the outer servo links.
Good to hear your got her flying.They always come set on the longer balls,and outer servo links.It make for a much more agil bird..Some need a bit of manual trim.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Jasen40 View Post
Good to hear your got her flying.They always come set on the longer balls,and outer servo links.It make for a much more agil bird..Some need a bit of manual trim.
oops, forgot to update my original post. TBE is still there, but it's not the common TBE I see on the blade micro heli's, where it will do a small circle all in one place. This does large circles, and will keep doing them even with input, And If I'm going forward, for example, and it gets to the point in the TBE where it would have been at the rear, It will stop going forward, even with forward input. My Blade 120SR does this too, and I just can't figure it out. My luck with heli's is not that good lately. I'm thinking about getting a flybarless fixed pitch (msr x), or small size CP heli (nano CP). Are there any good clones of those?
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 02:13 AM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
1,605 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cam94z28 View Post
It also definitely has some TBE going on. It tends to be worse indoors
Most common cause is flybar pivot screw too tight. On mine, I turn the screw tight, then back off 1/2 turn so flybar bounces when tapped.

You may know this already. Doesn't hurt to repeat it.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 03:10 AM
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Italy, Lazio, Rome
Joined Jun 2012
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Hi guys, i need some advice about what resistor i need for adding a 3mm white led (3.0v~3.4v 20mA 100mV) into the canopy of my v911 for night flying. Is it 100ohm right?
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ercapoccia View Post
Hi guys, i need some advice about what resistor i need for adding a 3mm white led (3.0v~3.4v 20mA 100mV) into the canopy of my v911 for night flying. Is it 100ohm right?
I use a 220Ohm resistor with my ultra bright white leds as they draw only 5ma which saves power for flight. For me the white leds are light enough.

But 100Ohms are OK.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 04:35 AM
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Joined Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ercapoccia View Post
Hi guys, i need some advice about what resistor i need for adding a 3mm white led (3.0v~3.4v 20mA 100mV) into the canopy of my v911 for night flying. Is it 100ohm right?
I'm not sure what/where the 100mV comes from.

You could go up to (down to) 50 Ohm for 20mA.

V = I * R
R = V / I

In this case V = the maximum voltage seen by the resistor.
That is 4.2 (maximum of fully charged battery) minus 3.2V (minimum seen across LED) = 1V.

R = 1 / 0.020 = 50 Ohm.

See my blog for some cool (I like to think so) lighting ideas.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mystman View Post
I use a 220Ohm resistor with my ultra bright white leds as they draw only 5ma which saves power for flight. For me the white leds are light enough.

But 100Ohms are OK.
Just to give you an idea of the impact on flight time of adding LED(s),

The batteries are 130mAH (average of what people are using).

They last 6 minutes.
130maH in 1/10th hour = average draw of 1300mA by heli itself.

You might add a bright 20mA LED. (or scale for one or more 5~10mA ones like mystman).

A 20mA LED adds less 2% (1320/1300) to the power draw
That cuts your flight time by less than 7 seconds.

The battery could run the LED alone (no flying, ignoring radio) for about 6 hours.
My 20,000mCD would make a pretty good flashlight!

Just like adding CNC bling. Gotta' decide what you're willing to pay for "coolness".
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 05:21 AM
Doink-not again :)...aka Greg
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United States, MI, Sterling Heights
Joined Jul 2012
1,291 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribble View Post
When a tail motor dies, I cut the wires at the tail motor, replace the tail motor, scrape the enamel off the wires. and solder.

When a tail boom breaks, I wrap it with paper towel and superglue the whole mess.

If you put the tail motor wires on the outside of the tail boom, nail polish is good to hold it and protect the wires.

A product called Un-Cure is a debonder that turns the cyanoacrylate (CA) glue into a gel, but you have to keep poking the glued part, wiping, adding more Un-Cure.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8458
I found using my wife's acetone nail polish remover to work quite well for debonding. Fancy stuff from the nail pro store.
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