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Old Oct 09, 2012, 03:06 PM
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I agree that the statemant was incorrect I guess when I used Castle I just got use to not having a switch to fool with plus no need to pay for something I don't want or need
Ken
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 06:21 PM
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United States, SC, Greenville
Joined Jun 2011
253 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by krazyman View Post
I also use Detrum ESC's, but the one that comes with the plane went bad after 3 flights. I use the program card and found the setting for the timing was set to high out of the box. I tried resetting to medium but had the same problem of the motor cutting out at more than half throttle. I ended up putting a 50 amp FMS ESC in and have not had any more problems.

Terry
Just started putting mine together tonight and hooked everything up to check the gear before putting it together. My program card shows the esc came set to high timing as well. I ran the motor up without the prop on both medium and high settings and it seems fine on either one. Should I leave it on high or change it to medium?

Norm
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 09:10 PM
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United States, AZ, Camp Verde
Joined Jan 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm62 View Post
Just started putting mine together tonight and hooked everything up to check the gear before putting it together. My program card shows the esc came set to high timing as well. I ran the motor up without the prop on both medium and high settings and it seems fine on either one. Should I leave it on high or change it to medium?

Norm
Just leave it on High. Be sure to run it up with a prop on and see if it starts cutting out above 1/2 throttle. Mine did that after the third flight. That is why I replaced the ESC.

Terry
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 12:50 PM
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United States, SC, Greenville
Joined Jun 2011
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A few assembly tips...

Got mine put together last evening and hope to maiden friday. Just figured I'd mention a few tips from my experience that might help someone...

- I cut out the spaces in between the engine cylinders at the bottom of the cowl to get more airflow in the ESC channel. I used a black marker to blackout the white foam behind it. It looks fine and should help with cooling.
- Electric tape the connections between ESC and motor and double check motor mount screws for snugness.
- I'm wondering about the problems some are having with their ESC's... After I bound the receivers to the radio, and checked everything, all seemed fine. However, when I went to turn it back on later, I got nothing. I found that when I messed with the connection between the ESC and the battery, that the power would come on and shut down intermittently. It feels like the deans style plug that they put on the ESC fits very loosely into my battery plugs. The solder joints are fine, so I adjusted the springs (?) on the blades of the plug to tighten them up and that seems to have worked, but I don't trust it. I'm going to change that plug before maiden. I wonder if the problems others are having might be related to the same thing. Anyway, it's something everyone should check on before flying.
- Don't put on the bottom wing until you connect and adjust the elevator and rudder with the power on and servos centered. My linkages were way off. I had to disconnect the servo arms and pull the rods forward to get to the collar that holds the elevator rods together. That got them close, then I tweaked them on the tail end. Also, the clevis on the rod for the rudder horn was completely stripped out. I had another on hand, so no real biggie, but I suggest giving them a good tug to make sure they're holding tight on the threaded ends of the push rods.
-Definitely do as someone else in this thread suggested and attach the supports to the top wing first (before trying to attach to lower wing and fuse). If you have fat fingers, installing those tiny nuts on those tiny screws is going to drive you mad! In hindsight, laying them flat on one of those little telescoping magnets for picking up dropped screws would have helped to at least get them started on the screw. I put them on a finger tip and put a drop of loctite on each one before tightening them. A real pain, but done. Hopefully, they stay put.
- BTW, loctite the set screw in the collar that holds the 2 elevator rods together while you have access to it and also loctite the one on the collar that holds in the rear wheel.

It looks great and I'm looking forward to the maiden!

Norm
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Last edited by Norm62; Oct 10, 2012 at 06:38 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 08:42 PM
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Thanks for the info should be helpful
Ken
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 10:50 PM
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United States, NC, Charlotte
Joined Jan 2007
1,217 Posts
Lights

Supplied led's are not very bright and need resistors in series to work.
Also red landing lights are just wrong.
If you do not mind a bit of work there are better led's that do not need resistors and they can operate directly off 14 volts.
The LEd's have small resistors inside the LED. The ones I used are rated at 12 volts, I ran the volts up to 16 volts and they were fine. However if you put 2 of them in series they work fine and are still very bright. I used white for landing lights, red and green for wing tips and I have some blue for stab if I decide to run the wires.
Do a search for resistor LED's you can find 5 volt or 12 volt ones easily. I ordered mine from All Electronics.

Tim
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 08:41 AM
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United States, NM, Espanola
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm62 View Post
Got mine put together last evening and hope to maiden friday. Just figured I'd mention a few tips from my experience that might help someone...

- I cut out the spaces in between the engine cylinders at the bottom of the cowl to get more airflow in the ESC channel. I used a black marker to blackout the white foam behind it. It looks fine and should help with cooling.
- Electric tape the connections between ESC and motor and double check motor mount screws for snugness.
- I'm wondering about the problems some are having with their ESC's... After I bound the receivers to the radio, and checked everything, all seemed fine. However, when I went to turn it back on later, I got nothing. I found that when I messed with the connection between the ESC and the battery, that the power would come on and shut down intermittently. It feels like the deans style plug that they put on the ESC fits very loosely into my battery plugs. The solder joints are fine, so I adjusted the springs (?) on the blades of the plug to tighten them up and that seems to have worked, but I don't trust it. I'm going to change that plug before maiden. I wonder if the problems others are having might be related to the same thing. Anyway, it's something everyone should check on before flying.
- Don't put on the bottom wing until you connect and adjust the elevator and rudder with the power on and servos centered. My linkages were way off. I had to disconnect the servo arms and pull the rods forward to get to the collar that holds the elevator rods together. That got them close, then I tweaked them on the tail end. Also, the clevis on the rod for the rudder horn was completely stripped out. I had another on hand, so no real biggie, but I suggest giving them a good tug to make sure they're holding tight on the threaded ends of the push rods.
-Definitely do as someone else in this thread suggested and attach the supports to the top wing first (before trying to attach to lower wing and fuse). If you have fat fingers, installing those tiny nuts on those tiny screws is going to drive you mad! In hindsight, laying them flat on one of those little telescoping magnets for picking up dropped screws would have helped to at least get them started on the screw. I put them on a finger tip and put a drop of loctite on each one before tightening them. A real pain, but done. Hopefully, they stay put.
- BTW, loctite the set screw in the collar that holds the 2 elevator rods together while you have access to it and also loctite the one on the collar that holds in the rear wheel.

It looks great and I'm looking forward to the maiden!

Norm
I changed all those little screws and nuts to 3mm!
Dan
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 08:53 AM
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United States, TX, Johnson City
Joined Mar 2005
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Dan I have not receive my plane yet but I plan tp be close to a Hobby Store tomorrow, they are far and few in central TX, what size did you use? I have some on hand but you can be sure what I need I don't have

Thanks Ken
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 09:01 AM
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United States, NC, Charlotte
Joined Jan 2007
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Noticed same with Deans connector when binding, seemed to clear up after a few insertions, maybe flux from soldering at factory??
What battery is recommended? I have bothe 2200's and 3300's , both fit 3300 seems like maybe a bit much weight wise.
Tim

Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm62 View Post
Got mine put together last evening and hope to maiden friday. Just figured I'd mention a few tips from my experience that might help someone...

- I cut out the spaces in between the engine cylinders at the bottom of the cowl to get more airflow in the ESC channel. I used a black marker to blackout the white foam behind it. It looks fine and should help with cooling.
- Electric tape the connections between ESC and motor and double check motor mount screws for snugness.
- I'm wondering about the problems some are having with their ESC's... After I bound the receivers to the radio, and checked everything, all seemed fine. However, when I went to turn it back on later, I got nothing. I found that when I messed with the connection between the ESC and the battery, that the power would come on and shut down intermittently. It feels like the deans style plug that they put on the ESC fits very loosely into my battery plugs. The solder joints are fine, so I adjusted the springs (?) on the blades of the plug to tighten them up and that seems to have worked, but I don't trust it. I'm going to change that plug before maiden. I wonder if the problems others are having might be related to the same thing. Anyway, it's something everyone should check on before flying.
- Don't put on the bottom wing until you connect and adjust the elevator and rudder with the power on and servos centered. My linkages were way off. I had to disconnect the servo arms and pull the rods forward to get to the collar that holds the elevator rods together. That got them close, then I tweaked them on the tail end. Also, the clevis on the rod for the rudder horn was completely stripped out. I had another on hand, so no real biggie, but I suggest giving them a good tug to make sure they're holding tight on the threaded ends of the push rods.
-Definitely do as someone else in this thread suggested and attach the supports to the top wing first (before trying to attach to lower wing and fuse). If you have fat fingers, installing those tiny nuts on those tiny screws is going to drive you mad! In hindsight, laying them flat on one of those little telescoping magnets for picking up dropped screws would have helped to at least get them started on the screw. I put them on a finger tip and put a drop of loctite on each one before tightening them. A real pain, but done. Hopefully, they stay put.
- BTW, loctite the set screw in the collar that holds the 2 elevator rods together while you have access to it and also loctite the one on the collar that holds in the rear wheel.

It looks great and I'm looking forward to the maiden!

Norm
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Smith View Post
Dan I have not receive my plane yet but I plan tp be close to a Hobby Store tomorrow, they are far and few in central TX, what size did you use? I have some on hand but you can be sure what I need I don't have

Thanks Ken
Hey Ken,
I get all my screws at a hardware store! Just go to the metric drawers. They have the button heads with allen key slots or your phillips. The 3mm are usually only one length and just right! They're a quarter a piece but well worth it when you have to remove the wing or struts compared to dickin around with the stock ones
Dan
PS. the closest HS to me is in Albuquerque at 88 miles
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 12:21 PM
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United States, SC, Greenville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w4yn View Post
Noticed same with Deans connector when binding, seemed to clear up after a few insertions, maybe flux from soldering at factory??
What battery is recommended? I have bothe 2200's and 3300's , both fit 3300 seems like maybe a bit much weight wise.
Tim
I'm going to maiden her this evening. I have 4S - 2200, 2650 and 3300 batteries, The 3300 is a very tight fit without cutting, so I think I'll start with the 2650s and balance around 73mm and see how it goes. Also going to maiden with stock prop but have an APC 12x8e on hand to try after. There are folks flying it all the way up to 5S-4000 (w/ bigger ESC), so it seems it will handle anything in between. I'm sure its just a matter of what you like the feel of.

Dynam, however "recommends" 4s-2200 25c in the manual.

Norm
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 12:57 PM
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United States, NC, Charlotte
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poziovahim View Post
I changed all those little screws and nuts to 3mm!
Dan
I am going to try and "tap" the carbon piece in wing and use SS SHCS, problem will be tapping with the holes close to wing. I may make a very long extension for the tap. I have done similar before and just put a dab of canopy glue on theads that protrude, makes it easy to take screws out but keeps them from backing out.

Tim
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 02:43 PM
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United States, IL, Champaign
Joined Aug 2012
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You can add me to the growing Dynam Waco Army. I plan to maiden it this weekend if the fall winds cooperate. My cabane mounting screw philips heads kept stripping out so I changed them out to a bit longer button heads and nylon insert 2-56 lock nuts. I also put longer screws and lock nuts on all control horns.

I did have a problem with one of the bottom wing cabane mounting points. On one side of the wing the embedded plastic piece disintegrated at both mounting holes. I had used blue locktite with the original nuts and either it was bad plastic to begin with or the locktite made it brittle. But, it just crumbled into a hundred pieces. So, I made new mounting points, cut a small slot next to the original mounts and epoxied them in.

This is my first electric plane, first biplane and first foam plane. I'm starting out with stock motor/ESC and 2650 4cell batteries.

Where did you mount your receiver, in the lower cavity above the lower wing or in the square hole leading to the lower cavity accessible through the hatch?

It would be appreciated if somebody with a good flying one measured the upper/lower wing and horizontal stab AOA's relative to the thrust line. If several of us did that then we should be able to predict why some of them need a lot of up elevator. If we find the right incidences we should be able to get the trims to neutral.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 08:12 PM
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United States, TX, Johnson City
Joined Mar 2005
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Thanks Dan for the info, I plan to use Button Head Sockets sorry you have to go so far, I was complaining for having to go 25 miles to a HD but 88 miles I will shut up.
Count me in as a new owner of a Waco, this is a very impressive bird and my first Dynam model and so far I am very happy, didn’t realizes that is was as large as it is. I now understand why everyone is saying this is my go to bird.
I read about the problems with the deans connectors and after looking at the ESC I plan to change the deans out, I use another type and give it a go. Everything I see here looks to be top flight quality and as others have said they have up to 9 planes with this ESC and have no problems. I can save the ESC I bought for another project maybe the E-Flite Albatross although I have planned to go the Pro Series it is a very expensive model.
I ordered the FMS PT-17 today that will be my 5th bi-plane
Ken Smith
Be Safe
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:45 PM
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United States, NC, Charlotte
Joined Jan 2007
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Try these guys, cheaper than gas and price is right:
Bolt Depot - Fastener shopping made easy
http://www.boltdepot.com
1-866-337-9888

Tim
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Smith View Post
Thanks Dan for the info, I plan to use Button Head Sockets sorry you have to go so far, I was complaining for having to go 25 miles to a HD but 88 miles I will shut up.
Count me in as a new owner of a Waco, this is a very impressive bird and my first Dynam model and so far I am very happy, didnít realizes that is was as large as it is. I now understand why everyone is saying this is my go to bird.
I read about the problems with the deans connectors and after looking at the ESC I plan to change the deans out, I use another type and give it a go. Everything I see here looks to be top flight quality and as others have said they have up to 9 planes with this ESC and have no problems. I can save the ESC I bought for another project maybe the E-Flite Albatross although I have planned to go the Pro Series it is a very expensive model.
I ordered the FMS PT-17 today that will be my 5th bi-plane
Ken Smith
Be Safe
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