|Wing Area:||354 Sq. In.|
|Weight:||26.4 oz. w/o battery|
|Wing Loading:||12.37 oz/sq. ft. w/ battery|
|Servos:||3 Micro Servos|
|Transmitter:||Tactic TTX404 – 4 Ch. 2.4 Ghz|
|Receiver:||Tactic TR624 – 6 Ch. 2.4 Ghz|
|Battery:||Flightpower 1,300 mah – 3s|
|Motor:||1,144kV brushless motor – Included!|
|ESC:||18 A brushless ESC – Included!|
|Available From:||Fine Hobby Stores Everywhere|
There are very few planes that are more recognizable than the Piper Cub series of planes, including the Super Cubs. From the bright yellow traditional paint schemes to the black bolt down the side, this is undeniably a model of the famous Piper Super Cub! We take a look at the receiver ready version of Flyzone Select Scale model of the Piper Super Cub.
The Kit Includes:
Items required to complete:
Tools Required for Assembly:
The wing comes completely assembled and ready for use with the addition of the functioning struts. The wing is removable for transport to and from the field but I find the plane small enough to travel with the wing still attached. One of the first things that jumped out to me about the model was the attenuation of the ailerons in a stand-off scale manner. A fake control horn is provided on the bottom of the aileron as well as the functional location of the control rod exiting out the top of the wing. Very nice!
The fuselage comes with the motor, ESC, cowl, steerable tail wheel assembly and two micro servos installed. All that is required is the installation of the spring loaded landing gear, tail feathers, and control horn connections.
The landing gear is easily installed with nothing more than a screwdriver. The instruction manual has you attach the landing gear first to the fuselage and then join them together with the center mounting block. While it is possible, I found it much easier to join the gear first at the center mounting block and then complete the installation on the fuselage.
The installation of the horizontal and vertical stabilizer along with the elevators and rudder was surprisingly simple. The model uses plastic tabs and notches to snap the pieces together. I found the alignment with the wing spot on the attachment method very secure. The only place I had an issue was with the elevator control rod catching in the foam. A few seconds with a hobby knife quickly removed any pieces of foam that was binding the controls.
The only thing left was to route the control rods to the proper servos, install the receiver and center the servos. The manual shows the recommended location for the receiver but I elected to install it behind the dash in the cockpit area to allow easier access to the receiver and more room to move the battery around in its compartment.
The last step before completing the assembly of the model is to install the wing. The wing uses an ingenuity locking tab and notches mechanism to easily secure the wing along with the installation of a singular bolt to ensure it stays in place. A very nice scale touch is provided by a nylon antenna that snaps into place over the screw. Be sure you have your aileron servo connected to the right channel!
The wing struts screw into the wing and attach to the rear mounting post of the landing gear. To remove the wing, you would need to remove the rearward mounting screw for the landing gear along with the nylon wing bolt under the antenna every time. I’ve chosen to leave the wing attached each time I’ve gone to the flying field simply because I have the space to transport the plane assembled.
Install one of the two supplied props, push the spinner cone back into place, check the balance, adjust the control throws as needed and you are ready to fly!
I used a Flightpower 3s - 1300mah battery pack for my flights. Tthe battery compartment is fairly small as it is, and I found it impossible to fit the Flightpower battery in place without removing some foam from around the area where the battery goes. This was very easy and only took about 5 minutes to complete. Once done, the battery was easy to install and remove.
The Super Cub is a four channel model with ailerons, elevator, throttle, and rudder. The Super Cub doesn’t have much dihedral, so turns are best done with coordinated rudder input. You could add a mix to your radio or fly with a touch of rudder on the turns. I found the Super Cub could be flown without the rudder in turns but the addition of the rudder allows for tighter turns and a more scale flying manner in the air.
The fully proportional throttle can keep your model in the air flying scale like speeds but there’s enough still left that you can blaze around the sky and pull yourself out of trouble if you need to. I typically fly around at half throttle or less and only use full throttle for take-offs and quick climbs to altitude. All of the recommended control throws were really spot on but some may prefer to back the rudder off a little as it is very effective.
Short takeoff rolls with the tail coming right up and the plane following soon after are the norm. The climb out is straightforward and nothing to worry about. While it takes more runway than the latest 3D models, it flies just like a Cub and can take to the air in short order. The model can be hand launched with a level toss into the wind, but why would one hand launch such a great looking model?!
On the landing approach the Cub didn’t need much speed to maintain control, but I would still come in with a slight amount of throttle just until I was coming out of my last turn. The scalelike landing gear absorbed any rough landings I threw at it, however, it also made it nearly impossible to land the plane without a small bounce.
This is what the Super Cub was designed for. I fly it low and slow in a simple figure-8 pattern trying to make it fly as scale as possible. This plane was meant to put a smile on the face of any Cub fans out there as it flies by gracefully and slowly! Hammer head turns really catch the sun before the tail comes around with the help of the highly effective rudder.
While aerobatic flight is possible, this is a Super Cub! Inverted flights require up elevator, aileron rolls need to start nose up and quickly fall out of them with adequate speed and attitude. You won’t be winning any national championships with this plane but it was designed with that in mind.
Overall, the flying characteristics of the model are very forgiving and make the Super Cub a joy to fly. However, the lack of a pronounced amount of dihedral common with a pure trainer model would keep me from recommending this as an absolute beginner model. The plane is very forgiving in the air and much easier to land and take off than my first plane, and with the proper flight instructor and buddy box setup, this could be a first model. However, I would recommend it more as a stable great aileron trainer or second model.
The Super Cub assembly is straightforward and very quick, only requiring a little over an hour to complete and take pictures. The instruction manual was well written and easy to follow. The parts fit together very well and everything aligned correctly. The model has a great scale look, both on the ground and especially in the air. The working suspension is a nice surprise that complements the flying characteristics of the plane.
I can't say enough about how great looking this plane is in the air. I can almost see myself sitting in the plane flying. The generous wing area and airfoil allowed the plane to slow nicely and perform with the best of them. I couldn't have asked for a more pleasing flight experience. The plane would benefit from being flown with dual rates while landing. The rudder is VERY effective and can create an issue with less experienced pilots. Overall, I have no problems recommending this plane to someone looking for their next scale parkflyer model.
If you are looking for a stand off scale Super Cub – I don’t think you could find a better example on the market at this time. The foam construction keeps the weight down while making repairs much simpler than a comparable balsa model. The larger 48” wingspan makes the model easy to see and maintain orientation in flight, and it also handles a steady breeze surprisingly well.
|Dec 03, 2010, 06:20 PM|
Joined Dec 2009
Super CUB (48 inch wing version) FOAM
NOT so super, mine lasted fine,till i tried to fly it. STALLED on takeoff and destroyed it's self. NOSE broke off,destroyed motor,ripped out wireing from ESC , stab & rudder broke off, and that was a landing on soft grass? THE worst crash damage i have ever seen in 50 years of RC ! The foam is much like egg shells. Sure i have had my share of crashes but never so much damage from a (tommy tip over crash). Also the motor is mounted on a heavy steel plate , glued to foam,so that was bent so bad,i couldn't bend it back,so i just JUNKED the foam night mare. What a waste of money! THE OLD GRUMP
|Dec 04, 2010, 09:13 PM|
Canada, QC, Saint-Laurent
Joined Jan 2002
LOL , I should agree with you something whent wrong for sure!
OLDGROMP, you should have at least post a picture.
I just want to share it with you!
|Dec 04, 2010, 09:44 PM|
In my time with the model - I never crashed it (maybe that should be required part of the review - finish each video with a crash!). However, I never had an issue with lack of power or stalling on lift off, etc.. Do you think it ma have been either a bad motor, esc, or ??? I don't think the airframe itself was the issue... However, at the end of the day - a crash is a crash and it's never good!
|Jan 06, 2011, 07:25 PM|
Joined Dec 2009
Not so super cub.
This "WAS" the worst plane i have ever built,(ARF) in 50 years ! I say "WAS" because it only took one takeoff for it too destroy it's self. The foam they use is pitifull . THE nose broke off bending the metal motor mount ,ripped out the wires from the ESC , bent the motor shaft beyond repair. This was from a stall on first takeoff ,And it didn't hit very hard on soft grass ! I walked over to pick it up "expecting to mayby have to replace the prop" When i saw it torn to pieces i was shocked. I only kept the landing gear,and threw the rest of that piece of crap in the trash. THE OLD GRUMP
|Jan 07, 2011, 12:20 AM|
Stall on takeoff isn't an aircraft design, build, etc issue - it's a pilot error... Unless, you've found something faulty besides blaming the airframe for a stall. ALL airplanes will stall - the problem with a lot of pilots (you seem to have a lot of experience so this shouldn't be a problem) is that they have gotten so used to flying all of their planes with greater thrust to weight ratios than required to fly so they don't "fly" the plane but "beat the air into submission"
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