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Old Nov 30, 2006, 03:57 PM
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Bulk Solder?

Where's the best place to buy Solder 60/40 rosin core in bulk? I'm running out and dont want to pay through the nose.

figured the battery section is the best place to ask
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Old Nov 30, 2006, 04:08 PM
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Solder just doubled in prices. I get mine $11 a roll for 1# of 0.062
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Old Nov 30, 2006, 04:47 PM
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solder

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcharles13
Where's the best place to buy Solder 60/40 rosin core in bulk? I'm running out and dont want to pay through the nose.

figured the battery section is the best place to ask
Here's some good quality Rosin Core .040 solder.
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...09&pid=racc030
Bob
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Old Nov 30, 2006, 04:58 PM
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I like Mouser Electronics

Wherever you buy it, buy double. I don't know if it will be a year or 3 years, but someday you won't be able to get lead solder without a waiver.
The lead free stuff that we're forced to use due to ROHS (reduction of hasardous substances) is nothing but trouble.
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Old Nov 30, 2006, 05:04 PM
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Any solder experts out there that can speak to the benefits of using Deans Racing Solder versus a no-name solder? I've used it and regular solder, and personally I think the Deans is nicer to work with, but I'm definitely not an expert.

-Adam
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Old Nov 30, 2006, 05:21 PM
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Without seeing the Deans MSDS sheet, I can't see if it's a special formula. It states 2% silver and a "special" flux.
Silver content is generally stronger, has a higher melting temp, and a couple percent better conductivity. The "special flux" I'll dismiss as a marketing word.
I'm sure it quality stuff.

A tip for soldering gold connectors:
The gold is put on the connector for tarnish resistance. Beleive it or not, copper is has less resistance than gold. There is also a reaction called leeching. The melted solder migrates beneath the gold coating and over time, displaces and loosens the gold molocules. When soldering to a gold connector, tin the gold with solder and wick it off with solderwick or copper braid. Do this twice. You've now remover most of the gold plating and you'll have a stronger, more conductive joint.
As always, make sure there is a solid conductor to conductor joint before soldering. Don't rely on bridging the joint with a glob of solder.
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Old Nov 30, 2006, 05:37 PM
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Tom, thanks. What's the proper way to solder two bare 13ga high strand count wires together? I was told that laying them side-by-side was better than end to end. Side to side is tricky, though. I tried squeezing the two against each other with a hemostat, then applying heat (pre-tinned). It worked OK, but because the wires become flexible once the pre-tin melts, the wires move when I heated them up. Should this be done with an alligator clamp holding one wire, the other wire held in hand with pliers, and then other hand soldering iron?

-Adam
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Old Nov 30, 2006, 05:41 PM
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Deans racing solder I believe is the Kester brand. I don't remember where I heard or read that but they both seem to solder the same and are very good quality.
-dave
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Old Nov 30, 2006, 06:01 PM
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The best way isn't always possible unless you have a couple spare inches of wire. Strip about 1.5" of each end, and twist them together tightly (in-line axially). Solder the center of the joint, but don't let it flow all the way. Now you can trim the ends, twist them flush, and dress them so there will be no sharp points sticking up. Now resolder the entire joint, but try not to let the solder wick under the insulation too much (not at all is ideal). When it's done your total bare wire joint should be about 1/2" to 3/4". Hopefully you remembered the heat shrink and it was as far away as possible. If you have any sharp solder points sticking up, don't re-melt them. Use a small file to smooth them down. You'll probably have some glazed flux on the joint too. Wipe it with alcohol/acetone on a rag.

Don't solder end to end. It's asking for trouble. Less surface area is low conductivity and it will only bend 2 times till it breaks. Side by side is better, providing there's not a "bridge" of solder.
Use whatever holding tools you can find for securing the wires while soldering. A small vise, pliers with a rubberband around the handle, hemostats, alagator clips on a coat hanger, duct tape on board, closepins.... Once they don't move, half the job is done.
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Old Nov 30, 2006, 07:13 PM
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the best solder is 63/37 eutectic solder, it melts a little sooner (361 deg F I think) than standard 60/40 solder.. an even lower temperature solder is 62.5% tin, 36.1% lead and 1.4% silver, it melts at 354F.. very hard to get a cold solder joint with either of these two.

http://www.kester.com/en-us/products...il.aspx?pid=43

the last item here may be the deans racing solder, w 2% silver.. anyone knows the composition?.. BTW, it is a pleasure soldering with the kester 63/37, you will know it is special instantly.

here is 63/37 specs
http://www.kester.com/en-us/products...il.aspx?pid=41

60/40
http://www.kester.com/en-us/products...il.aspx?pid=42

here is a link to buy a 1lb spool of 63/37 , 1/16 thick with 44 flux, $11

http://www.mouser.com/search/Product...533-24-6337-61

someone gave me a big spool of Radio Shack solder and I am cursed with it until it runs out.
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Last edited by hermperez; Nov 30, 2006 at 07:40 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2006, 07:21 PM
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I'll second the 63/37 - try it, you'll like it.

For side-by-side splices, try a little fixture made with two wooden spring clothes pins glued to a piece of scrap wood.

Bill
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Last edited by ebill3; Nov 30, 2006 at 07:21 PM. Reason: whoops
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Old Nov 30, 2006, 07:21 PM
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thoughts

Kester is the brand....

Quote:
Originally Posted by dalbert02
Deans racing solder I believe is the Kester brand. I don't remember where I heard or read that but they both seem to solder the same and are very good quality.
-dave
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Old Nov 30, 2006, 07:23 PM
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Ohh I like it!, and cheap!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ebill3
For side-by-side splices, try a little fixture made with two wooden spring clothes pins glued to a piece of scrap wood.

Bill
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Old Nov 30, 2006, 09:07 PM
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Some solder tips. The NASA site is is a good reference.

http://workmanship.nasa.gov/guidadv_recmeth.jsp


http://www.elexp.com/t_solder.htm


http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm
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Old Nov 30, 2006, 09:16 PM
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Forgot about these.


http://www.calcentron.com/Pages/fusi...at_shrink.html

There's plenty of guys who don't trust their soldering yet. These solder splices are just the thing. About 90 cents each. Tin your wires, insert them in the HIGH TEMP heat shrink tube, hit it with a heat gun, the fluxed solder ring melts, and the heat shrink seals the joint. The 3M brand is used extensivly in military and aerospace, even for high current applications.
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