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Old Jan 21, 2012, 11:57 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
1,605 Posts
27MHz, 30Mhz, 35MHz, 49MHz - they are almost alike. I only say 49MHz so someone reading who has something on 2.4GHz stops reading.
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 12:02 AM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
1,605 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeldepeza View Post
Question:wondering if converting 9104 to 9116 4ch is worth it
Answer: No.
Buy a 4 channel when you see something you like. Conversion is a nice dream, but those who have done it will likely tell you not to.
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 12:22 AM
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Trinidad & Tobago, St Andrew, Valencia
Joined Jan 2012
171 Posts
lol...thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribble View Post
michaeldepeza - Well there were several. Do a range check first.

First remove the transmitter antenna and walk away from the helicopter until the red LED under the canopy goes out. About 30 feet (I flew my DH9104 for the first two weeks with no transmitting antenna).

Put the transmitting antenna back in and keep on walking. I'm guessing range was about double. If you can't see the helicopter anymore, then your transmitter should be OK. If not I can help.

Next, wrap the helecopter receiving antenna back on the skid as it came out of the box. If you didn't unwrap it, then skip another range check. I found that the receiver was tuned for the antenna on the skid.

OK, now you have to decide if you really want to do this. The DH9104 receiver antenna is soldered to the Electronic Speed Control (ESC) board. Next to that is an upright coil with melted wax filling the hole. Underneath the wax is a movable ferrite slug that is threaded so turning it with a very small screwdriver moves the slug up and down inside the coil. Ideally it should be a non-metallic tuning wand, but I didn't know what was in there, so I put a jewelers screwdriver in from the bottom and pushed and turned.

If you never tuned a coil before, then I advise not doing it because you will likely damage the slug, the coil, or the ESC board itself. And the best way is to do it with the ESC connected to the battery and turned on.

However, since you will nuts it up anyway (I did), best to keep the battery disconnected (the switch only turns ON/OFF the +5 volts and the ESC board itself is hot at battery voltage).

So, you have to get the wax out of the coil somehow and after that you have to be able to adjust the slug. That done, you can tune the receiver.

TUNING THE RECEIVER
Remove the antenna from the transmitter and set it flat. Walk away with the helicopter until the red LED goes out. Adjust the slug until the red LED comes back on. Walk farther and repeat. Etc.

Getting that far, try unwrapping the receiving antenna from the skid and tie it to the tail plastic part. Repeat the walk and adjust.

Again, if all this is Greek to you, then better not done. Good luck.

honestly in my country its 225am and i've been online all night after dealing with my new baby and her excited grandma(my mother) so i'm a bit tired but i'll read better tomorrow and try it...me and older coworker got two of theses helis at ebay new from co. "everbella"...had i known more and maybe joined forums before buying then i would've gotten a 4ch instead but its great learning all of this hands on 9which is method that works best for me0 instead of buying some professional 3D heli and crashing the hell outta it......i'm eventually gonna upgrade to a 6ch transmitter and maybe if i aquire enough knowledge in next few months,build a 6ch heli also fromTrexkit or used heli online9providing that's more cost effective than buying a 300us toy...........
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 12:42 AM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
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And I am a bit uneasy telling you how to burn your house down. So at least understand the dangers of shorting a Li-Ion or LiPo battery pack. This can very easily happen with metal objects around a hot ESC board. Or you break the board in half and all hell breaks loose.

http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html
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Last edited by Ribble; Jan 22, 2012 at 12:53 AM.
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 03:14 AM
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Joined Jul 2011
111 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeldepeza View Post
link on amazon for 9116 swashplate

http://www.amazon.com/Double-Horse-H...sim_01_04_t_lh

link for 9116 swashplate buckles and blades(most likely too small to power 9104)

http://www.amazon.com/Double-Horse-H...ref=pd_sim_t_2

link to site selling parts inclusive of PCB for 9116

http://www.feala.com/double-horse-91...-and-parts.htm


Question:wondering if converting 9104 to 9116 4ch is worth it............hmmmmmm
Thanks for the links

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Old Jan 22, 2012, 12:22 PM
Always, against the wind
Thetis's Avatar
United States, IL
Joined Oct 2011
1,005 Posts
Problems solved

I think. The dog bone screws were too tight!! Couple of turns and the heli on lazy susan is steady. I am charging the battery now and give an outdoor spin when the wind drops to calm this evening
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Last edited by Thetis; Jan 22, 2012 at 02:58 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 01:54 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
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Yea, those two fixed forward links were bending aft when my servo pushed up. I was amazed to see the servo fighting the two links. Too many pivot points, so I just gave up and removed the two forward links.

Loosen the screws and watch them bend. Especially if you added more forward pitch.

I guess you saw that the forward links are keyed on the bottom. Turning them so the keys face outward didn't work for some reason.

Like a rocker arm. The servo pushes up from the back, making the front move down. Except the front can't move down because of the fixed links. So the swashplate moves up which decreases the distance between the rotor mast and the two forward links, except the distance is fixed because of the two fixed forward links. Either the rotor mast is going to bend or the two fixed links are going to bend. The rotor mast won't bend, so the fixed links have to.
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 02:06 PM
Always, against the wind
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United States, IL
Joined Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribble View Post
Yea, those two fixed forward links were bending aft when my servo pushed up. I was amazed to see the servo fighting the two links. Too many pivot points, so I just gave up and removed the two forward links.

Loosen the screws and watch them bend. Especially if you added more forward pitch.

I guess you saw that the forward links are keyed on the bottom. Turning them so the keys face outward didn't work for some reason.
You are right, I had added forward pitch. I am really impressed how sturdy this heli is after so many crashes form 20-30 ft high. The only brake is the left landing skid which I repaired with CG.
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 03:04 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thetis View Post
I am really impressed how sturdy this heli is after so many crashes form 20-30 ft high
My last after midnight flight ended with a 100 foot drop. My fingers were frozen so I picked up the pieces and walked home. A 100 foot drop and no damage. Amazing.

When I was cleaning up at bedtime, I picked up the canopy and found the nose was pushed in and a glob of frozen mud stuck in the hole. The canopy is destroyed. I didn't see the 100 foot drop, I only saw the forward blue LED 100 feet up and heard a loud "whack". Hit a tree, throttle off (likely would have recovered if I had kept the throttle on).

It appears that the helicopter did a nose dive and the canopy took the hit, saving the rest of the helicopter.
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Last edited by Ribble; Jan 22, 2012 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 08:27 PM
LearningFast
United States, LA, Denham Springs
Joined Jan 2012
410 Posts
New Swashplate! Was really bored today!

Ok, I was looking over the old design and knew I had to move the pivot points up to equal (or real close) to the pivot ball on the swashplate. So, I cut off the servo end of the broken swash and wasted a new one (oh well, $2.50 toward the project). Here are the results. I am very close to the pivot ball height and it works pretty well. This can be done on either the 9100 or 9104. As you can see, I wanted to sure up the entire structure as I was using epoxy on all the pieces. I got a 1/8 thick plastic washer to center on the bottom, drill out the hole as need so it will not touch the shaft at full pitch either forward or reverse. Then it was just aligning all the pieces and bonding. If I had a little more rise on the old pieces, I could have been on the same plane as the pivot ball. Oh well, I am close as you can see. Also, if it does not work, I can return it to stock. One side is fixed, as you can see, and one is adjustable. Just to make sure the fixed stays put, I bonded that triangle support on the outside. I will eventually get a little black spray paint and take care of it. I picked up a pack of small screws (varying lengths) and matching nuts at the local radio shack. I may try to find some plastic spacers later instead of the stacked nuts. It should work, but I have yet to fly as I am waiting a new tail motor. In testing, it seems to react faster as it is not lifting, just pivoting. I have a vid, but I have not reduced the size enough. Maybe later. Let me know what you think!
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 09:14 PM
LearningFast
United States, LA, Denham Springs
Joined Jan 2012
410 Posts
Video

The swashplate is in the video forum. It does show it works rather well.
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Last edited by Ken59; Jan 22, 2012 at 09:29 PM. Reason: video in video forums
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 09:29 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
1,605 Posts
Ken - Now that is downright ugly! Looks like you re-invented the 90 degree swashplate.

Your prior version looked so pretty and would have won a Chinese beauty pageant. Better not let the Chinese see this monster.

Yet you win on functionality. That looks about perfect. Now why didn't they do that in the first place.

Watch that anti-rotation pin when pitching back - it is running out of topside.
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 09:38 PM
LearningFast
United States, LA, Denham Springs
Joined Jan 2012
410 Posts
Yeah, I have some testing to do once parts arrive. I might have to move the servo link back a notch, or two, so it does not react as fast. I just want to have it move just to where the shaft does not strike the rotator. I know it is ugleeeeee, but once I slap a little paint on, it should look better. I did make another adjustable link which looks like it belongs (waiting for epoxy to dry good and it is a backup). It you noticed, it is not flexing. This should work, heh? Hmmmm.
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 10:01 PM
Crash and learn
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
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Flexing? I can't figure out how to play your video.

Ugly? I work with duct tape. Everyone likes duct tape.
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Old Jan 22, 2012, 10:06 PM
LearningFast
United States, LA, Denham Springs
Joined Jan 2012
410 Posts
I just checked it and you just click on it and it should ask you what you want to do. Just open with windows media player or download it and play it back with something similar.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1579600
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