Originally Posted by Stoersender

The ESC runs serperatly...
But the brush-to-brushless converter uses the original tail motor's jack on the pcb.
The converter is used to "translate" the brushed signal for a brushless motor.


Then the ESC is plugged into the converter.

Tumppi T is using the exact same converter as I do. And he had to change the FET.
Maybe the converter needs more amps than the original FET can supply... or something.

But I'm no expert, too

Hi,

It's the smaller one close to the tail-motor plug (installed horisontal). I don't understand either why it doesn't work with the original FET, but i fried accidentaly the original FET......replaced it with the DH9104:s FET...and now its running

The FET is: CEP73A3G

It was very easy to install. Just cut the original FET:s connectors and then solder the FET away (It's soldered to the board from it's back). Solder 2 cm wires to the original FETs connection points (2) and one 2cm wire to the area where the original FET was fixed to the board. Solder two wires to the new FET in same order as the original. The third wire goes to the center connector. Then put some sticky tape behind the new FET and attach it in some good place. I put mine just onto the main circuit

Originally Posted by Tumppi T

Hi,

It's the smaller one close to the tail-motor plug (installed horisontal). I don't understand either why it doesn't work with the original FET, but i fried accidentaly the original FET......replaced it with the DH9104:s FET...and now its running

The FET is: CEP73A3G

It was very easy to install. Just cut the original FET:s connectors and then solder the FET away (It's soldered to the board from it's back). Solder 2 cm wires to the original FETs connection points (2) and one 2cm wire to the area where the original FET was fixed to the board. Solder two wires to the new FET in same order as the original. The third wire goes to the center connector. Then put some sticky tape behind the new FET and attach it in some good place. I put mine just onto the main circuit

Thanks this helps a lot!
Can I use almost any FET (N-channel), as long as it can handle more than 16A?
Does the voltage matter?
How I understand it, both voltage and amps are maximum values. So I won't have a problem if they run with lower voltage

Originally Posted by Stoersender

The ESC runs serperatly...
But the brush-to-brushless converter uses the original tail motor's jack on the pcb.
The converter is used to "translate" the brushed signal for a brushless motor.


Then the ESC is plugged into the converter.

Tumppi T is using the exact same converter as I do. And he had to change the FET.
Maybe the converter needs more amps than the original FET can supply... or something.

But I'm no expert, too

One thing that would be interesting to try, concerning the problem with the original FET is putting a resistor between + and - on the input of the brushed to brushless converter. The brushed motor is driven by a pulse width modulated voltage, maybe the input impedance of the brushed to brushless converter is too high to permit the voltage to drop enough between each pulse.
I think a resistor of 47 ohms and 1 watt could do the trick.

Roland

I just my F45 two days ago. I ordered it from Germany (parts-for-cars24.de) to Denmark.
I have been flying co-axial heli (xieda 9998 <- super stable and resilient btw) and the new quad-copter wltoys v929. I actually got my wltoys v911 in the same day as the F45.

This heli is ton of fun. I made the servo arm trick to give it more aileron because it had trouble handling the wind. That made it much more live.

It was in need of a lot of mechanical trimming before it was hovering with minimal stick movements.

It's also one tough machine. I crashed it HARD because i reached high altitudes and i could not control it. When i saw that it had its nose pointing down and was picking up speed, i just cut the throttle and hoped for the best. After 10 min of search-and-rescue i managed to find it by giving it a little of throttle and listen for the engine trying to move. It was high up in a tree totally tangled. It must have felt like 40-50 meters straight down. Got hold of it, removed some leafs and was flying again with no problems. I was so impressed :0)

Can i use a Turnigy 9x with this beast ?
I have a collection of helis in shipment and i should received them within a week or so.. It's a couple of v911, xieda 9958, v939 and a BenMa helios 100... They all connect to a Turnigy 9x and i'm considering buying one!

BTW, helipal have a solo pro 100 (CP) for around 110$.. Is it not a good deal ?
http://www.helipal.com/nine-eagles-s...z-edition.html

Originally Posted by mumilove

BTW, helipal have a solo pro 100 (CP) for around 110$.. Is it not a good deal ?
http://www.helipal.com/nine-eagles-s...z-edition.html

Looks good for a fair price... only way to know is to try and let us know

Originally Posted by mumilove

I just my F45 two days ago. I ordered it from Germany (parts-for-cars24.de) to Denmark.
I have been flying co-axial heli (xieda 9998 <- super stable and resilient btw) and the new quad-copter wltoys v929. I actually got my wltoys v911 in the same day as the F45.

This heli is ton of fun. I made the servo arm trick to give it more aileron because it had trouble handling the wind. That made it much more live.

It was in need of a lot of mechanical trimming before it was hovering with minimal stick movements.

It's also one tough machine. I crashed it HARD because i reached high altitudes and i could not control it. When i saw that it had its nose pointing down and was picking up speed, i just cut the throttle and hoped for the best. After 10 min of search-and-rescue i managed to find it by giving it a little of throttle and listen for the engine trying to move. It was high up in a tree totally tangled. It must have felt like 40-50 meters straight down. Got hold of it, removed some leafs and was flying again with no problems. I was so impressed :0)

Can i use a Turnigy 9x with this beast ?
I have a collection of helis in shipment and i should received them within a week or so.. It's a couple of v911, xieda 9958, v939 and a BenMa helios 100... They all connect to a Turnigy 9x and i'm considering buying one!

BTW, helipal have a solo pro 100 (CP) for around 110$.. Is it not a good deal ?
http://www.helipal.com/nine-eagles-s...z-edition.html

Turnigy 9x won't bind with this one.
The solo pro 100 is also available from Hobby king as a clone. All I can say is beware. It has the same crappy servos as the 9958 which I just gave away. The V911 is a much better heli than the 9958 in my opinion.

Oh my. I just received my 3s battery for the brushless EH200 so I plugged it in and gave it a spin while holding it in my hand. With the stock blades she wanted to take off at around 28% throttle!

Now it's time to mount the battery and switch the blades and see what happens.

Hi All,
Thanks to all of the reviews and information here I ordered a Red F45.
I ordered it form Banggood for $86.59 US with Free Shipping on
9-21 and it arrived in New Jersey, US, yesterday 10-9, only
18 days later from China. After reading all of the posts
here, yes all, here is a description of my Red F45.

The box reads "for sale in mainland china only" and "Model F45".
The gyro is vertical on the board with no heat shrink tubing on it.
The manual is in Chinese. (I downloaded the English version)
The Elev servo arm is "cut off" just after the fourth hole.
The left landing skid has the "bumps" on the bottom.
The connector links are straight not "sevens".
The Ail servo arm is full size with six holes
The transmitter has the "old style" decals.

Mods I will do:

Hot glue the Gyro in place.

Make a camera mount for
my 808 #18 HD camera.

Foam on tail boom. (blade
strike protection)

Heat sinks, both motors.

Switch the servo arms.

Shim the main blades.

Cut out the battery stops.

Modify the PCB connector.
(attach 4.0 banana plug)

I will use the 2 Gens ace 2200mah 2S1P 7.4V 25C Lipo battery packs
I used with my Coax Heli. I bought them from HobbyPartz
and they slide right in to the battery tray.

I have been able to hover in the garage right out of the box.
I am waiting for the weather to cooperate so I can
take it down to the ball field and actually fly.

Thanks again to all here for the wealth of information
and great videos included in the previous 241 pages.
Jay

Has anyone thought about trying one of these on the tail? Someone mounted as a direct drive on a Honey Bee and really likes it. It appears to be the same diameter as the stock motor so should bolt right on.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=5229

Originally Posted by arrowshooter

Has anyone thought about trying one of these on the tail? Someone mounted as a direct drive on a Honey Bee and really likes it. It appears to be the same diameter as the stock motor so should bolt right on.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=5229

It might work just fine.

Originally Posted by Tumppi T

Hi,

It's the smaller one close to the tail-motor plug (installed horisontal). I don't understand either why it doesn't work with the original FET, but i fried accidentaly the original FET......replaced it with the DH9104:s FET...and now its running

The FET is: CEP73A3G

It was very easy to install. Just cut the original FET:s connectors and then solder the FET away (It's soldered to the board from it's back). Solder 2 cm wires to the original FETs connection points (2) and one 2cm wire to the area where the original FET was fixed to the board. Solder two wires to the new FET in same order as the original. The third wire goes to the center connector. Then put some sticky tape behind the new FET and attach it in some good place. I put mine just onto the main circuit

Do you think maybe it would have something to do with the ESC red wire to the converter still being hooked up and supplying power. If the BEC supplies power to the converter, is this power supplied to the input side as well?
I read several discussions on using a converter to power a tail motor and they both said DO NOT HOOK UP the BLACK or RED Wire.
On the V400D02 thread, they said just do not hook up the red wire.

Well after over 30 days waiting for the slow boat from China to arrive, my 1000mah 3s battery arrived today. So, I soldered an adapter together and hooked it up to my the ESC for my EH200 - mounted the Walkera #4 blades and did some tests. First test - spinning up to about 75% throttle was fine. The power was amazing but something strange happened after 75% - the blades lost their strength and started to twist and flap resulting in a massive drop in thrust. So I figured with me sitting there holding down the helicopter sure but what about outside flying? It's dark so I took it out front of my house and flew around a bit over the pavement. Again, things seemed pretty smooth up to about 75% throttle. When I climbed much past that (had to do it quick due to a small space) the blades had destabilized and the F45 came flying at my head. I ducked and it smashed nicely into a rock wall. The blades shattered and the flybar was bent a little but otherwise no damage. Since the blades couldn't handle the motor and the flybar bent back easily I would say it was no big deal but a great lesson. Mostly it was hilarious!

So now I'll have to fly stock blades until I try the ones Brent suggested in the first place.

Originally Posted by arrowshooter

Has anyone thought about trying one of these on the tail? Someone mounted as a direct drive on a Honey Bee and really likes it. It appears to be the same diameter as the stock motor so should bolt right on.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=5229

Hello i look for use that BL motor. But i don't know how to connect ESC circuit. May be someone show the circuit connection and BL motor install picture?

Originally Posted by JayRayRC

Hi All,

The Elev servo arm is "cut off" just after the fourth hole.

Jay

Having just decided to do the aileron-elevator 'switch', I find that my elevator servo arm has 5 holes before the cut. So I guess that all I need is to do is to shift the wire to the next slot. Anyway, I think I need more aileron throw, so I moved it to the 5th hole. I had to use pliers to get the wire out, and I also removed the servo arm off its pinion. I would like to know if I could have done it otherwise? (Meaning not using the pliers on the wire end and unscrewing the arm). After moving to the 5th hole, I moved the servo connecting bar by screwing it anti-clockwise till the swash-plate was level (I did this with the transmitter on and aileron adjustment tab in neutral setting. I have not tested with a flight as yet. Please let me know if I missed out anything, otherwise I will repeat this with the elevator tomorrow. I think I will need to pull out the servo to reach the servo arm maybe?

Originally Posted by BThirsk

Do you think maybe it would have something to do with the ESC red wire to the converter still being hooked up and supplying power. If the BEC supplies power to the converter, is this power supplied to the input side as well?
I read several discussions on using a converter to power a tail motor and they both said DO NOT HOOK UP the BLACK or RED Wire.
On the V400D02 thread, they said just do not hook up the red wire.

Give me a minute and I'll test it for you

if it's not true I'll just have to resolder the cut wire...

edit:

so I just tested your theory, but nothing happend.
The ESC just beeped the "no signal" beep.
I tested both wires, red and black.

Haven't had to cut anything... I remembered that the pins can be pushed out of the plug



now I'm soldering a new FET to the board...