|Jun 25, 2013, 05:00 PM|
so far they have served me well.... so I'll continue to use them (screws)
small wood-type screws for motors
I plan to occasionally use this model over water so I will seal everything with permanently elastic kit
motors are sealed, mounted and ready...
|Jun 25, 2013, 05:41 PM|
now I need to merge motor holders and tubes
I don't like to glue them together because later is a big problem to clean the glue if you need to replace the tube...
so I'll use the tape....
I wanted to use transparent tape...
but the adhesive on that tape was very weak
so I took a plain brown packing tape which has good adhesive for this purpose
I have put so much tape that tube barely fits on...
and again some permanently elastic kit so that water definitely does not enter
I have pressed the tube on the motor holder with all my weight and there is no way to remove the tube after that unless I split it on the side with a scalpel...
also I have used a soft wood for back support the tube because on a hard surface tube can be damaged on the edge
excess of elastic kit will come out at the junction of motor holder and the tube
|Jun 26, 2013, 10:09 AM|
The next thing is ESC's cooling....
cooling has to look good and it would be nice if it was effective at the same time
in the electronics shop I have found appropriate looking coolers
but first they needed a little modification...
these heatsinks are for "TO-220", there are several shapes and sizes
and I chose the most appropriate (by appearance again ) ones
size is more than sufficient for cooling the two ESC's at once
weight of one modified heatsink is 10g and that's lightweight enough for me
and the size is just right not to disturb the model form
at the end it should look something like this
more to follow...
|Jun 26, 2013, 05:17 PM|
hole for heatsink
I've glued heatsinks with fast epoxy
heatsinks done... but they changed the color from full black to dark red-ish....
I could say that it was intentional because black is best heated by the sun... but again....I tried to complicate things more than necessary
(I've tried to warmed up the heatsinks up on 400 degrees Celsius because I wanted to add something with Durafix rods but the color will not withstand the process )
I do not want to re-do heatsinks from scratch so we will pretend that red-ish color is better for cooling in the sun
|Jun 28, 2013, 07:54 AM|
after flashind and changing the wires I've also put a new transparent heat shrink tubes on all ESC's
then it was necessary to remove heat shrink tube from the aluminum ESC heatsink...
so that the heatsink will have good thermal conductivity....
and to achieve the best thermal conductivity I have used thermal silicone from old ESC
It was enough to cover just a half of ESC with thermal silicone because when attached only half of the ESC heatsink will touch the main heatsink
before gluing the main heatsink I've made some holes for zip ties on it...
ESC's fits perfectly..... even though only half of the ESC's is touching the main heatsink.... It will be enough for perfect thermal conductivity
I only need to connect the wires to finish this chapter with cooling
|Jun 29, 2013, 08:14 AM|
well, this is how the build log was supposed to go on....
and then I connected the battery to check if everything is OK.. and it wasn't
I have burned 2 ESC's
I didn't have the red wire for ESC's so I've put all black instead (I was too lazy to go to the store to get the red wire...)
or maybe I wasn't careful enough... OK, or I was just too lazy.... but it all depends on how you look at it
either way I'm missing some electronics at the moment and I have to find the quickest way again
maybe I've soldered incorrectly but in my defense joints were good quality
|Jul 02, 2013, 11:20 AM|
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