|Jul 26, 2014, 04:24 AM|
A side paddlewheeler within a week?
The first time I was on this ship was in 1972 - when I was only 11 years old.
Last year it was "restored" - as they call it - but I definitely prefer the view that I was familiar with...
So this isnīt going to be a real scale build, only loosely probably - much more some look alike...
And there even seems to be something like a third version...
Iīm not joking - this is allways the same ship.
The "white" - version is the one that Iīve been aboard myself.
The "black"-version is the "socalled" restored version - what it looked like in 1908 when we still had an Emperor...he has even been aboard himself, as this was the first Austrian side paddlewheeler ever! - Quite a technical revolution at itīs time.!
The "green"-version may be - or maybe not - seems to be something like an in-between-version,
if you like to compare the details...Maybe this green color is just the primer for the black paint???
Really donīt know...yet..
On the first b/w picture from 1940 you can see a deckhouse, which was removed later on. On the last pic - b/w again and from 1960 - it is not there anymore.
One detail - or maybe just an optical illusion - is the location of the paddlewheels on this ship. On several pics they seem to be well forward of admidships - whilest on several others it looks like they are right admidships.
Iīm also asking myself why they canīt be in the middle of the ship -
I mean, whatīs the benefit of this? - Any idea?
Here are some technical datas I found online:
LOA: 33.10 m
Width: 8.52 m
Height: 5.50 m
Draft: 0.77 m - first problem - at 1/20 this would mean only 38.5 mm!
Displ: 21.6 to
Speed: 10.5 kn
So my first idea was to do it 165 cm (65") long - scale 1/20.
Weīll see... more to come...
|Jul 26, 2014, 08:23 AM|
First step done.
The forward 99 cm made out of 3mm Balsa, 10 cm high.
65 cm for the bow (13 cm x 5) + 34 cm for the midship section.
As this ship has vertical hull sides, this is fairly simple to build.
The aftward 66 cm will be done with 10 cm styrodur foam.
Then a second layer of 10 cm styrofoam will go on top to build
and shape the underwater part of this hull.
|Jul 26, 2014, 03:13 PM|
Recheck draft numbers
0.77M= 770mm/ 20=38.5mm for your draft numbers. That shouldn't be too bad. Are you going to use electric drive? That will mean a lighter build. I think you'll be OK with this draft. I've built a 1575mm long paddle wheeler with a draft of 37.5mm. It weighs 16.8 Kg and is propelled by a heavy two cylinder steam engine and includes a 1.2 liter feed water tank. It appears that the design of this beautiful boat will not be a heavy build. You may even end up having to add ballast.
What a great vessel to model. I'll be following your build log with great interest.
Enjoy the build.
Mike in Edmonds
|Jul 27, 2014, 06:07 AM|
Youtube videos of Lake Wolfgang and the īKaiser Franz Josefī:
Starting from the village St.Wolfgang heading towards St.Gilgen.
At 1:20 you can even see the ship appearing in the dry dock during refurbish -
- at the left side.
At about 3:20 you can see the holyday resort, where I spent 6 weeks each in 1972, ī73 and 74.
(And several more holyday as an adult later on.)
Unfortunately the sailboats they have there are not in the water in this video.
They have several liveboats from WW I - Austrian K & K Navy still in use!
Thatīs where I learned to sail.
Then - 3 years later - in 1977 I started my apprenticeship as a shipwright.
At 5:40 - St.Gilgen approaching.
Another point of view:
From the ships station at St.Gilgen - the side paddlewheeler is docking.
Onboard camera and onboard sound (!) of the īKaiser Jranz Josefī:
I love that steady padpadpad sound of such a ship!
At 2:45 you can see the ship in the condition I had been used to.
If you want to learn more about that region, check this out:
51:31 min -Video in English:
And here is a last, very good one without any blabla:
Let the pics speak for themselves!
And NO, I am not working for the tourist branch.
I just love my country.
|Jul 28, 2014, 04:03 AM|
Maybe the proper surveillance regarding that,
but I am/was more concered about the proper CG,
not the proper CE...
And why should it be less effort, if the paddles are more forward?
|Jul 29, 2014, 08:05 AM|
Ok - I was a little bit insecured, īcause Iīd never used that UHU-Por before.
It is used to glue foam to foam or foam to wood, etc. -
It has to be applied to both sides, then dry a while, then press together.
So far so good - it took two times longer than the discription says to dry down enough - 20 min. instead of 10 min. but maybe I applied too much...
Anyway - it seems to hold very well.
So on with the next part(s).
In the pic you cannot only see the 10 cm thick foampiece glued to the balsa hull walls + the used glue, but also my new 1/16 Heng Long full metal gear upgrade set I just received.
Bought for 43.80 Euro incl. shipping
2 motors of the 380-size sound small and too weak for a model ship of 65", but I have tested it allready - 7.2 V - and it seems to have enough power and rpms to drive my paddlewheeler along. And the 1/16 Heng Long tanks are about 4 kgs heavy and run more than walking speed - 5 kmh + - fair enough for my first paddlewheeler test bed.
(And yes - of course I also have a 1/16 Heng Long tank. - sometimes Iīm really as kittenish as a kitten. )
Next is to cut the remaining foam pieces to size and glue everything together.
I had all the stuff Iīm using here standing around for some time - remaining stuff from other projects. Even fibreglass, carbon, peelply and epoxy resin is here.
So the only stuff I actually needed to buy for this ship where the drive units.
|Jul 29, 2014, 11:16 AM|
Think of the ship like a weather vane.
The flow of the water and the longer length of boat to the stern will
allows the hull to naturally follow the paddle wheels.
If you you center the wheels mid ship, you get a more maneuverable or unstable ship in yaw.
Stern wheelers and other ships, even propeller driven, are essentially balancing the bow,
like a rocket, on the point of thrust.
The CG of a boat is almost always going to be the same regardless of where the wheels or
propellers are placed. That is just a matter of ballast. The steam engines and other mechanical will
all be placed, balanced and trimmed as required. The boat will still rotate around a moment dictated by
the placement of rudders or thrust.
I think that is what I want to say...
|Jul 30, 2014, 09:13 AM|
thank you very much for your interest!
Mike, I know! - that was just a typing error...
The main difference to your beautiful build is ->
yours is a wide barge hull,
while mine has not only a shallow draft, but is also a quite slim hull!
Length to width ratio about 7/1.
And at a scale of 1/20 it turns out like this:
21.6 to - or 21.600 kg displacement : (20 x 20 x20) =
21.600 : 8.000 = 2.7 kg
- thatīs really not much for a 165 cm (65") model...
The original ship is registered for up to 100 passengers, which could/should add up to 7000 kg -
or 7 to! ... Thatīs a THIRD of the overall displacement!
Empty - the ship would have only about 60 cm draft, but fully loaded it could have up to 80 cm draft...hmmm...
So I have decided to add some more draft and volume.
Three more things:
The original ship doesnīt seem to have an external keel at all,
the paddlewheels seem to reach down as far as the hull bottom itself -
and the rudderblade is quite wide - like it would be on a rivership.
(can be seen in video ONE at 1:38)
(as you can see from the many lines on the foam,
there have been several different thoughts about what I want to build next- and how...)
|Jul 30, 2014, 11:24 AM|
Iīll do my best.
But this should mainly be a fast, simple and cheap build,
as it is "only" supposed to be a testbed for the main project...
Hull sides sanded flush with the balsa sides, hull bottom sanded untill it was completely straight (the foam isnīt 100% straight), most of the old odd lines sanded away as well.
Redrew the keel centerline and the original cross section markings.
Also drew up the aftward upward curve of the hull + began with the orientation lines to round the hull sides towards the hull bottom.
Next will be to cut the upward curve of the stern and sand it smooth.
But I need a shower now!
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