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Old May 01, 2015, 10:56 AM
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Well in EU warehouse the Zeta Extreme is way to expensive, if I was to get something bigger than the MX2 but still "boxed" I would look at the Extra_330LX: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

You have to chose a "zone" where you want to fly in the next period: a 1200mm wingspan goes with 2200mAh and 13g servo and 3542, 1100 is in the middle with ~1800mAh 3536, 900mm can fly with a 1300mAh and 9g servo 3530 (that's with the cheap-light Turnigy motors and ZC batteries, with sk3 or better you can go lighter).

Look at what you have around and see what you want to stock as spares.

BTW: I usually strength up the motor mount of my EPP planes in the motor mount with some extra wood, expo and some fiberglass. I had the belly and the leading edges of my MX2 laminated with 18g glass cloth, for aesthetic mostly: easier to clean up.
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Old May 01, 2015, 11:02 AM
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Description: That's the hardened motor mount of my Sbach, with 5mm shaft you can dig holes in the ground with it!
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Old May 01, 2015, 11:34 AM
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Maybe you are thinking of EPS instead of EPP?

EPP is vastly more resilient than EPO, EPP take a heck of a lot more to "break" than any other foam. Yes you can break it, but it take a lot more than any form of EPO

That large benefit to EPO is it's lighter and more form-able with molds, something EPP cannot do easily. EPO is stronger "in a sense" that it's more rigid when molded and holds structural form easier (not related to damage).



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Originally Posted by chop stiX View Post
Daniirwin
EPO is actually stronger in a sense and takes more to break.
So can take more abuse and badgering
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Old May 01, 2015, 11:37 AM
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Also, it's difficult to compare EPP and EPO planes when using this plane as an example since it's a hybrid and contains polystyrene sandwich in parts of the plane.
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Old May 01, 2015, 04:12 PM
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I see that on HK there's a special offer for the Yak 54 @37e, it could be a chance to get a spare body for the MX2 which is more expensive .

Somebody knows the differences between the MX2 and the Yak in the way they fly?

I see that the Yak is a little bigger and longer, it has the rudder servo over the elevator (good IMHO) but the tail section is much thinner. That could be good as I find the MX2 tail heavy.

The motor in the Yak is on the horizontal axe with the wing: maybe that could help in knife edge?
I feel like my MX2, with the higher motor placement, has a tendency to nose down in knife edge: does it make sense?
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Old May 02, 2015, 02:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaydayMayday View Post
Maybe you are thinking of EPS instead of EPP?

EPP is vastly more resilient than EPO, EPP take a heck of a lot more to "break" than any other foam. Yes you can break it, but it take a lot more than any form of EPO

That large benefit to EPO is it's lighter and more form-able with molds, something EPP cannot do easily. EPO is stronger "in a sense" that it's more rigid when molded and holds structural form easier (not related to damage).
Mayday i respect your qoute and insight,my opinion is based solely on my own experience.
I take my HK parkjet which is EPO as an example,that poor thing has hit the deck plenty times and taken abuse of noteand its still flying.EPP is more flexible in a sense and therefor also takes alotbof abuse and when it does "break" it's more of a tear.
Both are suoer durable and can take a hammering
So i can't really say for sure one is better than the other.
I think it still comes down to peraonal experience.
There aren't alot of EPO 3d airframes around so it's a little more difficult to make an accurate assumption or comparison imo
But no one's wrong here in what they experience and the opinions they have
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Old May 04, 2015, 11:22 AM
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My fuselage broke in half, any recommendations about how to fix it?
I was thinking about separating the two halves and putting some carbon sticks in the joint point, or maybe just put some glue as far as I can reach without breaking what is still OK and put some glass fiber by the joint point.
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Old May 04, 2015, 01:02 PM
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Low temp hot glue..... or Foam Tac if you have it.



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Attachment 7834289
My fuselage broke in half, any recommendations about how to fix it?
I was thinking about separating the two halves and putting some carbon sticks in the joint point, or maybe just put some glue as far as I can reach without breaking what is still OK and put some glass fiber by the joint point.
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Old May 04, 2015, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eaman View Post
Well in EU warehouse the Zeta Extreme is way to expensive, if I was to get something bigger than the MX2 but still "boxed" I would look at the Extra_330LX: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

You have to chose a "zone" where you want to fly in the next period: a 1200mm wingspan goes with 2200mAh and 13g servo and 3542, 1100 is in the middle with ~1800mAh 3536, 900mm can fly with a 1300mAh and 9g servo 3530 (that's with the cheap-light Turnigy motors and ZC batteries, with sk3 or better you can go lighter).

Look at what you have around and see what you want to stock as spares.

BTW: I usually strength up the motor mount of my EPP planes in the motor mount with some extra wood, expo and some fiberglass. I had the belly and the leading edges of my MX2 laminated with 18g glass cloth, for aesthetic mostly: easier to clean up.
Thanks eaman. Yeah, I think for me either 900mm or 1100mm is the way to go next. Cheaper components FTW Oh and thanks for the tip to strengthen motor mount as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eaman View Post
Attachment 7834289
My fuselage broke in half, any recommendations about how to fix it?
I was thinking about separating the two halves and putting some carbon sticks in the joint point, or maybe just put some glue as far as I can reach without breaking what is still OK and put some glass fiber by the joint point.
Oh no, what happened there eaman?
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Old May 04, 2015, 02:04 PM
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Eaman
Go back a few pages and check what i did on mine.broke in the exact same place.
Even some skewer sticks with some epoxy and you'll be golden,with that add some fibertape and it will not break again
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Old May 04, 2015, 06:38 PM
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I forgot there is still wood there. Chox Stix has a good idea there. Don't use epoxy on the EPP, it won't hurt it but it causes it to tear under stress but with the skewers and epoxy on the wood bits you'll be good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chop stiX View Post
Eaman
Go back a few pages and check what i did on mine.broke in the exact same place.
Even some skewer sticks with some epoxy and you'll be golden,with that add some fibertape and it will not break again
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Old May 04, 2015, 08:32 PM
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Thanks eaman. Yeah, I think for me either 900mm or 1100mm is the way to go next. Cheaper components FTW Oh and thanks for the tip to strengthen motor mount as well.
Go get something that can fly with ZC 1000mAh 3s 25C / 35C : they are like 5euro each. I've bought the lighter Yak (as my MX2 is not proving very lucky) and I'll see if I can manage to fly it with those: 1300 and 1800mAh are way to expensive as I like to have some 4/6 batteries with me. I hope the tail will be lighter than this MX2's.

Quote:
Oh no, what happened there eaman?
An unremarkable pancake in hi grass, dho.
And I have glass fiber all along under the belly to keep it clean with landings, that's probbly what kept it together,

Thanks @chop stiX and @ MaydayMayday,
after further inspection it's not so broken, just the upper part of the fuselage seems broken. Actually I'm not sure about under the wings between the EPP sides...

So I decided to make it light: UHU POR and maybe a small patch of glass fiber on top: this way if it does not hold (...let's say 'till the next pancake ) then it will break for good and I will put a few 2/3mm carbon sticks to join the halves.

But hey, my profile Sbach that is way heavier has taken much more abuse and is nowhere close to break in two: the middle of the fuselage is to fragile if there's nothing sandwiched inside. Pff it would be better to cut it clean and put two 1mm carbon sticks under and over the wings for half the length of it
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Old May 05, 2015, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaydayMayday View Post
I forgot there is still wood there. Chox Stix has a good idea there. Don't use epoxy on the EPP, it won't hurt it but it causes it to tear under stress but with the skewers and epoxy on the wood bits you'll be good.
That's the only place I used epoxy,was on the skewers,the rest of the join I used normal woodglue aka cold glue.
It takes longer to set,but works killer.
(forgot to mention the woodglue)
The epoxy is only to make sure the skewers bind properly.
Then once was all dry(left overnight) I hit it with the fibertape
Will go back in the thread and repost my pics of the repair
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Old May 05, 2015, 01:24 PM
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Can't find the post now and too lazy to look further, but went into the thread attachments and found the pics.
This is what how the join came out aswell as a pic of when I snapped the fuse
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Old May 05, 2015, 03:26 PM
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Thanks Chop stiX, I did mine with UHU POR, one napkin of glass fiber 48g with 30min slow cure epoxy around the fissure, soft glue for the wood part and today it was OK.
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