OK Gents,

I would like to wire up and power the LED lights to the mighty Dynam 1200 P-51 Mustang. We have the two two wire leads for each wing tip (port and starboard). I have extra channels on my receiver...so I should be able to power on my LED's with a switchable channel.

My question is...how should I splice in the two wires from the LED's to the three wire lead connector for the reciver channel?? I hate to experiment and fry anything...so asking the experts here first before soldering.

Thanks in advance,
TwistedGrin

Originally Posted by Jboy90277

Thanks. I'm running a 4S 2200 mah pack, and I did the rake the gear forward to keep from nosing over.

is one popsicle stick thickness enough or two for the rear portion of gear?thx

Originally Posted by hate2crash

is one popsicle stick thickness enough or two for the rear portion of gear?thx

I used wood shims that I had laying around. They were little less than 2 popsicle sticks, so you may want to try 2 if you can get it to fit. The screws holding the retracts to the wing weren't that long, so I had to stop at that thickness. I then had to do some bending of the gear wire to get more rake (take off the plastic housing first and put back on when you've got your desired rake). At the time, I was flying off of grass, so I needed a lot of forward rake - probably don't need as much now.

After all the bending, I had to cut out more foam from the gear bay to get the wheel to fold into the wing.

I have three popsicle sticks in my P-51, four in one of my Spitfire's.....this modification is a nessesity for operating on grass. Even with the forward raking modifications to the landing gear...carefull placement of each battery for COG must be considered to prevent nose over for take off. I have found that if I try to take of with an aggressive forward COG....I can not even get her to roll without going over.

I have to note / mark where the battery should be in the planes battery tray...and check the COG before heading to the flight line. Simply sliding my 4S battery all the way forward does not work.....If they cut the grass really short...then I can move my COG/battery forward. If the grass has not been cut yet...then I have to move my COG/battery aft.

Having said this.....raking the landing gear is critical for more consistancy...at least for my operations. Three popsicle sticks is minimal for me....I tried two and it just was not enough...three and some additional forward bend is just barely enough. I may install another stick for a four stack later on as our grass field is starting to green up...but for now I am able to get lot's of smooth landings with three sticks and additional bend.

Best Regards,
TwistedGrin

Thax for the great tips!

Gents,
I have been researching about how to power up the LED lights....

E-Flite makes a pre-packaged connector allowing you to plug into the batteries balancing port, only two wires are pinned...so only one cell of the battery is powering the LED. So the LED's should only be pulling a max voltage of 4.2v max....

There are also connectors for 4S as well....

1. E-Flite connector kit to your flight battery balancing plug
2. Use a separate power source all together, make your own connection
3. Use a separate channel from the receiver....find the correct resistor to lower voltages

I have tried in vain to discover what the voltage range is on theses Dynam LED's. If anyone has this information .....please let us know!!

TwistedGrin

I read in this thread that the LEDs are supposed to work off of 3v. Someone just wired the two LEDs in series and then put 5v through it using an open receiver port . Assuming they are equal resistance, that would give you 2.5 to 3v to each LED depending on what your BEC puts out (5v or 6v). I also read that the LEDs were pretty dim and not worth the effort, so I never bothered hooking them up.

Well today was not a good day for the Mustang, I would have thought a power pole would have had a little more give, guess I was wrong



Gonna patch her back together, as too the nose over issue I'm gonna try something I haven't seen anyone suggest before, Im going to lengthen the gear legs so that they almost meet at the middle of the fuse looks like at least 3/4 of an inch maybe more and see if that helps at all I had 2 Popsicle sticks and also a bend to the legs but the plane still nosed over any time it touched grass.

Will post up the results and some pics if it works.

Also will be going with this paint scheme, which I wish I had already done as this would have saved me from the pole I lost orientation and could not see the wings when I banked in for an approach, silver against gray clouds pretty much disappears lol!




The tops of the wings are green so yeah this would have been a plane saver today

Before anyone asks if I know how to use the thread tools, YES. I didn't find any mention of anyone using an E-Flite Power. 10, or E-flite retracts. I'm buying a bare airframe from a club member for $40.

What I have setting in the shop is an E-Flite Power .10, and a Rimfire 35-30-1250kv, hoping one of these will be powerful enough to pull it. I was also curious if anyone had installed E-Flite retracts?

Moonbeam I believe the motor the plane shipped with from Dynam is a .15 size so the E-Flite 10 may get you airborne not sure about performance, As to the retracts Most of these shipped to the US where retract equipped (Change Sun style Chinese electric servoless) have never done E-Flite Retracts but in this hobby anything is Fabricatable (is that even a word?) I personally am running a Tacon BigFoot 25 in mine and the performance is almost 3D plane like.

Good luck with it , this airframe fly's beautifully very stable an none of the nasty warbird draw backs (IE Tip Stall and the like).

P.S. Mine is going back together as I type this took a little break waiting for the gorilla glue to dry :P

P.S.S Oh and Moonbeam I just noticed your location where do fly at? We seem to be not to far from each other.

The E-Flite retracts should work fine as they are about identical in size to the C/Sun units.


The Power10 would be a bit lacking in this one I'd say.

The stock motor on 4s works great. Or something in the 42-40 range (if memory serves) with 800-900Kv works great on 4s and 12x6 2blade.

Originally Posted by Whitey22

Moonbeam I believe the motor the plane shipped with from Dynam is a .15 size so the E-Flite 10 may get you airborne not sure about performance, As to the retracts Most of these shipped to the US where retract equipped (Change Sun style Chinese electric servoless) have never done E-Flite Retracts but in this hobby anything is Fabricatable (is that even a word?) I personally am running a Tacon BigFoot 25 in mine and the performance is almost 3D plane like.

Good luck with it , this airframe fly's beautifully very stable an none of the nasty warbird draw backs (IE Tip Stall and the like).

P.S. Mine is going back together as I type this took a little break waiting for the gorilla glue to dry :P

P.S.S Oh and Moonbeam I just noticed your location where do fly at? We seem to be not to far from each other.

Yeah I'm back on the fence whether to buy this airframe or get the Durafly P-51 which is back in the USA warehouse finally.

I fly with the Stone Mountain RC Flyers (at what used to be the old Stone Mountain airport), but fly pretty much anywhere I can get a plane in the air safely.

Nice I fly at GMA in Cumming love the paved runway especially with this bird!

As to the rebuild got her back in the air Monday but had to give some right rudder and Aileron to achieve level flight (some thing is twisted ) guess I will have to replace the Fuse and Wings since I do not like flying with dirty surfaces!! Or I may just grab the FW190 and put the motor and components from this bird in it not sure which way Im gonna go yet.

Ya know it just figures that this would be the airframe to get hosed not my 182 not my BF109 but this one the first one I actually liked flying!! The other 2 are still fully functional (straight not twisted) and sitting on the shelf UGH! Guess its just time to finish up the Hurri and see how it flys.

Oh and Moonbeam if you decide not to purchase that airframe do you mind putting me in contact with the seller as I obviously need a new airframe :P

Originally Posted by Moonbeam

Yeah I'm back on the fence whether to buy this airframe or get the Durafly P-51 which is back in the USA warehouse finally.

I fly with the Stone Mountain RC Flyers (at what used to be the old Stone Mountain airport), but fly pretty much anywhere I can get a plane in the air safely.

Hi Moonbeam, I just joined SMRCF last week and I was at the field this past Saturday for the warbird day. George is holding my membership till 11/1 'cause I didn't want to pay an extra 1/3 membership fee for just 2 weeks and I'm still waiting for my AMA number. My number from 30 years ago probably won't work any more. I tried flying at several parks and the last take-off I tried had a couple of high school runners go right in front of the plane as I lifted off. Avoiding them caused me to abort and crash so I packed up, went home and immediately sign up with SMRCF. I look forward to meeting you in person.

Anyone know where to find slow rate servos for flaps...thx