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Old Jul 04, 2012, 09:43 PM
Vintage wood is the best!
SZD16's Avatar
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HS - 645 MG on all movable surfaces......spoilers have their own built in servos and a HS-805 on the tow release. That is what I'm using.
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 09:24 AM
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Mark Anderson's Avatar
United States, WA, Tumwater
Joined May 2010
281 Posts
I am using the same as SZD16 except a 605bb on the release (It was on hand). By far the longest part of the build has been the harness. This thing eats up alot of wire! I am 8 hours in and just have aileron linkage and balancing left to do.
SZD anyy idea how much weight you ended up putting in to balance
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 10:17 AM
Vintage wood is the best!
SZD16's Avatar
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I added 68 oz. of lead shot that I weighed and then just started using whatever lead I had around the shop!
It took a bunch.....so 5 - 6 lbs. finial weight would be my guess. Plane weighs 33lbs. 6 oz. right now. I still have to make the stab shim and re-trim so some of that weight will be coming back out....
I'm also going to redo the stab mount and take the rear most bolt out...the one under the fin...and replace it with a pin so the stab/elevator can be removed without taking the fin/rudder off.
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 10:18 AM
Vintage wood is the best!
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And yes...the harness took a good bit of time.
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 11:16 AM
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Holland
Joined Jan 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SZD16 View Post
I'm also going to redo the stab mount and take the rear most bolt out...the one under the fin...and replace it with a pin so the stab/elevator can be removed without taking the fin/rudder off.
I would advice against this. Because of the conical shape of the recess in the underside of the stab and fuselage you would have to cut off a lot of material in order to be able to slip the horizontal stabilizer under the front of the vertical stabilizer. Guess how know. I had to build everything back after trying to do the same.

The only way this works is taking off the bottom front angle of the vertical stabilizer, leaving an ugly opening when everything installed.
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 11:36 AM
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One thing that I really don't like is the unsupported section of the rudder. I am going to install a couple of large flat style hinges in the bottom with a piece of music wire that can be removed when I take the assembley off. Maybe I'm paranoid but it just does not seem right to have the bottom half or the rudder unhinged.

Mark
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 11:38 AM
Vintage wood is the best!
SZD16's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harm View Post
I would advice against this. Because of the conical shape of the recess in the underside of the stab and fuselage you would have to cut off a lot of material in order to be able to slip the horizontal stabilizer under the front of the vertical stabilizer. Guess how know. I had to build everything back after trying to do the same.

The only way this works is taking off the bottom front angle of the vertical stabilizer, leaving an ugly opening when everything installed.
Well damn.....as I looked at it last night I thought that might be a problem...taking the rudder/fin off is a pain.....that needs to be made easier to do. Need to think on it for a bit.....
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 11:41 AM
Vintage wood is the best!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Anderson View Post
Maybe I'm paranoid but it just does not seem right to have the bottom half or the rudder unhinged.

Mark
That's a good idea.....I always try to put a hinge right next to where a control horn goes....but with the way this rudder/fin comes off you can't...so a hinge with a removable pin is a good idea.
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 03:32 PM
Electric Airplane Junkie
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United States, CA, San Mateo
Joined Jun 2000
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Tom

What did you use as the nose skid? That piece of red plastic is not going to last.

Brian, an EAJ
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 03:59 PM
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Holland
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The plastic part is an excellent mold for a glass fibre skid.
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 04:55 PM
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United States, WA, Tumwater
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Thats a great idea.
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 09:28 PM
Vintage wood is the best!
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That is a good idea......
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Old Jul 09, 2012, 09:25 AM
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United States, WA, Tumwater
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We maidened two K8s yesterday. We both shimmed the stab, one 4mm and one 5mm,and c.g. @ 135mm. Both flew very nicely the plane with 4mm shim had very slight down trim the one with 5mm was neutral. C.G. could come back a little, but felt good. The planes will circle very tightly in a thermal and indicate lift well. We are very happy.

Mark
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Old Jul 09, 2012, 09:35 AM
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New York
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Great to hear so many positive experiences with the K8. I'll be starting mine once I get a bit further along with another project and can clear some space in the shop.

Would greatly appreciate if you all would post some photos of the mods you've worked out so we can all benefit.

Thanks,

Steve
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Old Jul 09, 2012, 04:56 PM
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Holland
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Some mods I did on my K8b:

-Made the tow mechanism in the nose block, so I don't have to open the cockpit and fiddle each time connecting the tow line;

-The cockpit is retained by one 2 mm wire on the top of the back plate .The wire is operated from the fuselage side, under the trailing edge of the left wing, just like we often do in our glass ships;

-The rudder retaining bolts can fall out easily when getting unscrewed, falling into the fuselage. Getting them out is a real pita. I took longer bolts with a one cm long plastic washer glued on. When getting unsrewed the bolt heads stick out of the fuselage and can easily be taken out;

-I made a sturdy tail wheel, the plastic former is cut up to cover the construction;

-I did put in a larger and much sturdier FEMA main wheel, the wheel size looks much more scale. This wheel fits without problems with only minor dremeling out some wood;

-For fastening the wings to the fuselage, only the middle black plastic bolt (under the front aluminium tube) is more than enough. With four stiff and long joiners the wing doesn't have any tendency to loosen itself;

-Instead of the fibre hinges I used strong plastic standard hinges with metal pins. I did take out the pins and used one long combined pin. This way I can easily loosen any rudder when needed;

- I made a wedge lifting up the front of the horizontal stabilizer 5mm. In combination with a CG of 140 mm my K8 flies beautifully. I am not ready with optimizing though;

-The vertical fuselage ribs between the wings and main wheel have been strengthened in order to better transfer the forces of an ocasional hard landing.
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