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Old Aug 13, 2012, 04:35 AM
If it moves - I can fix it :D
United Kingdom, England, Weston-super-Mare
Joined May 2006
20 Posts
Build Log
Another Robbe U-47 i'm afraid !

Hi guys !

Just got my grubby paws on a U47 from Robbe last week ( not as easy as it sounds BTW!) Thought I'd start my build log to keep tabs on things.

Finished a Krick kit last week - wasn't very pleased with it TBH - the plans weren't as detailed as i'd liked and the connig tower doesn't look right.
She sails OK i Guess, but Dynamic diving makes her look like a whale during the final push under water, and the Ballast tank seems to have an annoying habit of trapping air. Still needs setting up methinks

Still working on My Bugsier 3, and finally finished my 1/72 Empire Susan ( awful kit, but awesome results !).

Aaaaaaannnnnyway. Kit due to arrive this week - very excited !
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 09:18 AM
Dive and Surface's replacement
United States, IL, Naperville
Joined Jul 2012
9 Posts
Sunktwice,

Are you going to convert it to a static diver? Reason being that you sound like that you aren't fond of dynamic diving. The most common way to convert this kit is to use a Engel tank custom made along with a switch unit, the one I'd recommend is the UNIpro, which differs from the other switch unit (SBTS) by allowing complete control of the ENTIRE volume of the cylinder, not just the last 30mm of travel.

Note: using switch units TMAX and TAE (which is designed for use with two piston tanks) with only one piston tank is NOT recommended, it wastes space and is more expensive. There is no benefit to using TMAX and TAE in this case.

Another note: A custom made piston tank isn't much more expensive than the 'pre-defined volume' piston tanks. In this case, you will need a tank with 900ml capacity or greater (this is a assumption, actual capacity may differ).

The Engel site also sells bayonet rings designed to hold the end cap in place. This ring is designed for the Robbe U-47 and the type XXI. It replaces the central screw which needs to be removed for the piston tank to fit.

In your case, converting isn't too hard. There are many sites/threads on how to do this conversion.

Besides the dive system, you should also add some photo-etch brass plates to the upper deck. There 'plates' are available and shouldn't present a challenge to you.

Also, you may find that you may want to replace the conning tower with a Accurate Armor type VII tower. It is much more accurate than the one supplied with the kit.

Please post your build here.

Regards
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 09:30 AM
Dive and Surface's replacement
United States, IL, Naperville
Joined Jul 2012
9 Posts
Dang it! Forgot to post something.

The Engel website: http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalog/index.php

UNIpro: http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalo...oducts_id=2261

SBTS: http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalo...oducts_id=1206

Bayonet rings: http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalo...oducts_id=1801

The switch units mentioned above are the proportional types. These offer the most control and don't require re-trimming due to different waters. Also, the ones I posted are in 12 volts. There is a 6 volt version of these units.

Depending on the width of the WTC, you may need a tank that uses 380 motors, rather than the standard 540 motors. But, when you can, get the 540 motors one. It allows you to install additional capacitors. It comes with the capacitors installed inside the motor, allowing to install additional capacitors external of the motor. It also has more torque and less current drain.

Piston tanks: http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalo...php?cPath=2_29

Note: To use the switch unit UNIpro, you need piston tank type EA. To use SBTS, you need piston tank type XP.

Regards
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 11:36 AM
If it moves - I can fix it :D
United Kingdom, England, Weston-super-Mare
Joined May 2006
20 Posts
Hya, thanks for the info -Ive been trawling the forum for ballast ideas for a few days - ordered myself the 750TAengle tank, uni control and the bayonet rings this morning. The only thing i can't find easily over here in blighty is the armour detail conning tower. also the supplier of the etch decks doesn't reply to the emails I've sent, so I'm kind of put off from an overseas supplier I can't get hold of, but I'm in no huge rush atm - need to have her built first
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Last edited by sunktwice(again); Aug 15, 2012 at 06:44 AM.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 11:53 AM
Dive and Surface's replacement
United States, IL, Naperville
Joined Jul 2012
9 Posts
Sunktwice,

That's right, get her built first. Unfortunately, I do not know where to get the new conning tower and brass deck. I've only heard of them. However, if you type it into a search engine, results should appear.

Have fun!
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 02:22 PM
If it moves - I can fix it :D
United Kingdom, England, Weston-super-Mare
Joined May 2006
20 Posts
I've gone for the 6V system for my Sub - i'm going to run twin 7.2 4200mah ni-mh packs in parallel.

One thing i can't seem to find documented, although i know i've seen it are details on fitting the bayonet

I've tried Model Brass for the decks - no response from them so far. As for the conning tower, I hear dream Art might do something,but their site doesn't list any reference to conning towers ?
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Last edited by sunktwice(again); Aug 14, 2012 at 02:58 PM.
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 06:32 AM
If it moves - I can fix it :D
United Kingdom, England, Weston-super-Mare
Joined May 2006
20 Posts
Bummer. Seems although the Model Brass website is still there, they're no longer doing the decks - I'm hoping i'm wrong - but the more I dig the more I draw a blank

Ordering the Accurate Armour Conning tower in a week or two, though
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 07:51 AM
If it moves - I can fix it :D
United Kingdom, England, Weston-super-Mare
Joined May 2006
20 Posts
Woot ! It's here at last.......what the hell have I let myself in for

I love opening boxes for my kits, very therapeutic in a weird kind of way - until it gets to that point during the frenzy of torn packaging and polystyrene shrapnel that you stop and think "Christ...this things massive". then it sinks in that the next few months are going to be spent in the workshop ( again) and that "budget" so carefully planned before will more than likely go out of the window in, say 3 weeks minimum.

I'll post some pics later of the obligatory box opening ceremony and bits of ship strewn across the bench, but for now, i'm going to make a big mug of the queens finest tea, and digest the ( frighteningly thick) build manual.
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Old Aug 16, 2012, 05:36 PM
If it moves - I can fix it :D
United Kingdom, England, Weston-super-Mare
Joined May 2006
20 Posts
Started work tonight, mostly cutting out bulkheads and building the tray. Started off with the important things 1st though - a nice brew and then on to clearing a suitable space in the already crowded workshop.
A few helpful bits if anyones interested:

A lot of the older kits still quote "Stablit Express" which was great stuff in it's time - sadly it's like rocking horse poo nowadays, so I found some awesome alternatives.

An expensive option is "Super Crylic" by Deluxe, which is a std 50-50 acrylic based resin kinda deal - retails appx 14 - very easy to source, BUT it's kinda runny being a resin type system - ruddy good grab on it.

As a direct replacement for good ol' Stabilit I found a product by UHU called "Plus Acrylit" it's almost identical and is nice and thick, but parts need holing in place to bond properly as it doesn't like being disturbed. It's starting to get hard to obtain, but at appx 9 its worth hunting around a bit for it ( cornwall model boats have it at the time of writing this).

Some pics. I won't bore anyone with the intermediate build pics - there's enough threads on this awesome sub already

I still can't get over how big this thing is - i keep looking at the shells and giggling....this is gonna be GREAT !
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 04:27 PM
If it moves - I can fix it :D
United Kingdom, England, Weston-super-Mare
Joined May 2006
20 Posts
Got lots done tonight - most of the Mid section hull is complete, after a long time double and triple checking I finally committed to bonding everything in place.

I'm gong to plod ahead until the Engel kit arrives and then go back to modify the tech tray and fit the bayonet.

I'm going to have to make more room on the workbench methinks.
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Old Aug 17, 2012, 05:01 PM
Registered User
United States, GA, Marietta
Joined May 2012
14 Posts
You brought back memories of when I started my Robbe and all the cutting fitting I really enjoyed the journey
Enjoy
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 12:27 PM
If it moves - I can fix it :D
United Kingdom, England, Weston-super-Mare
Joined May 2006
20 Posts
gotta say - there s alot of head scratching going on ATM. Some of the translation makes for some mild disjointed reading in places.

Still working on the hull centre section today, I would of finished it, but ended up taking the Krick ( Type Viii ) and Bugsier up to the lake for a few hours.

Decided i'm going to have to rework the Krick. I really don't like dynamic diving.

More pics Later.
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 07:09 PM
Dive and Surface's replacement
United States, IL, Naperville
Joined Jul 2012
9 Posts
Just a tip;

Get the Robbe boat done before you work on the Krick. It will prevent you from getting off track and never finishing the boat.

Good progress so far...
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 11:20 AM
If it moves - I can fix it :D
United Kingdom, England, Weston-super-Mare
Joined May 2006
20 Posts
Thanks
The Krick will be reworked, once my Robbe is up and running. All my efforts are going in to getting the U47 as near perfect as I can get.

I've currently got 3 build ongoing ATM:
Restoring an old Cargo cruiser ( seems to be a scratch build)
Finishing the Bugsier ( ongoing detailing)
The U47.

Still waiting on Engel to ship my parts - until they turn up, I can't go any further, as I need to get the Bayonet rings fitted before i do any more work on the rear of the WTC - which includes the running gear, decks, hydros,rudders and fore hydros etc.

Still, gives me a beak from the nightmare of ABS plastic
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 03:24 PM
If it moves - I can fix it :D
United Kingdom, England, Weston-super-Mare
Joined May 2006
20 Posts
NOT a good night tonight

I'm at the point of aligning the proptubes and rear support brackets. Because the ruddy rear hull section needs tickling as it doesn't quite match the centre hull profile ( i've heard this on a few other threads) it's a pain the arse to get everything to run nice and free.

I'll attack it again tomorrow.
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