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Old Oct 10, 2012, 06:07 AM
Team Mulikow 3D
Oxfordshire, UK
Joined Jan 2007
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Originally Posted by efx View Post
Mike, all the parts on the heli were new, so I wasn't getting anything, since I had never flown or tried to fly this thing. One of the links came off too so I'm not sure if that also had something to do with it this second time. I just finished putting in the new main shaft, gear, and servos. I readjusted my links as they are not very strong from what it looks like, so I put screw the end links all the way down and moved the base up near to top to get the same movement up and down. This part is something I think making it tough too since I have to look at the blades to make sure they are about the same. I'll have to adjust the servo links but I rather do these than the two long ones now after that. Oh I also moved the gyro on the top of the tail boom and will change that setting too. As for the correction, well it looks like it corrects fine, but it's after I spooled up that it decides to go to one side without any input from me instead of straight up.
How are you mounting the FBL unit - which tape? The wrong tape can cause issues.

Also I saw a picture of your 450 where you were using a cable tie to hold it - this will transfer vibes into the unit (unless you have the cable tie in fuel tubing or similar), also your FBL unit was not perpendicular to the main shaft
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 06:43 AM
almost hovering
r3dskull's Avatar
United States, FL, Homestead
Joined Feb 2012
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Originally Posted by MikeHRC View Post
How are you mounting the FBL unit - which tape? The wrong tape can cause issues.

Also I saw a picture of your 450 where you were using a cable tie to hold it - this will transfer vibes into the unit (unless you have the cable tie in fuel tubing or similar), also your FBL unit was not perpendicular to the main shaft
efx, I prefer to swap the RX and gyro locations (gyro inside frame, rx out) and like Mike says don't use tie with this gyro, I just use the double side foam tape.

Also have you check the gyro corrections on the bench, just move it hard to each side and check. I don't know if that gyro is like the zyx with an option for pirouette optimization also.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 11:21 AM
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Joined Jul 2012
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Hi does any one know the dimensions of the screws used on HK250GT? I'm thinking of replacing them with good quality steel screws, but don't want to order the wrong type.

Also any one know the source for good screws in the UK?
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 12:01 PM
Team Mulikow 3D
Oxfordshire, UK
Joined Jan 2007
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Originally Posted by geekystar View Post
Hi does any one know the dimensions of the screws used on HK250GT? I'm thinking of replacing them with good quality steel screws, but don't want to order the wrong type.

Also any one know the source for good screws in the UK?
The HK 250 (as does the Trex 250) uses a bizarre size called 0-80, I haven't found anyone in teh UK that does them, but Microfasteners in teh US does and will ship for sensible prices http://www.microfasteners.com/catalo...cts/SSCSCA.cfm

these are MUCH better than the Align or HK screws as they have a proper deep socket dead
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 02:09 PM
efx
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I like to use velcro and velcro straps usually and here a cable tie because I like to be able to move things around. Double sided tape is nice, but a pain if I have to take the heli apart. I have been doing this with all my gyros and haven't had a problem. I think the mounting location may also help. I had this inside the 250 and that was working fine just as a gyro but perpendicular to the main shaft, so we'll see. I would like to keep it inside, but I prefer the receiver inside. I rather loose the gyro and at least have some control just in case. Now I'm finding that this thing has the orientation in a way that makes mounting it a bit harder. It shows the connections towards the front which I don't like. So on top the connections are away from where the blades would hit if that happens. I'll test it like this and see how it goes. Will let you know.

skull, yes it's similar to that one, and I did check before, but will triple check again.

Geekystar, I got a list of suppliers for small screws somewhere on my blog here, but I think you'll have to look through it. I can't remember if it's in the shopping sites or the heli where I put it. Most are here in the US, but I think you will have better luck finding metric where you are probably at any local hardware store there.
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Last edited by efx; Oct 10, 2012 at 02:41 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 02:31 PM
efx
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Can you tell me if your swash moves back very slow or fast on yours when you tilt it yourself on the bench? Mine seems to go in slow motion unless I move the stick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by r3dskull View Post
efx, I prefer to swap the RX and gyro locations (gyro inside frame, rx out) and like Mike says don't use tie with this gyro, I just use the double side foam tape.

Also have you check the gyro corrections on the bench, just move it hard to each side and check. I don't know if that gyro is like the zyx with an option for pirouette optimization also.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 03:05 PM
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Can you tell me if your swash moves back very slow or fast on yours when you tilt it yourself on the bench? Mine seems to go in slow motion unless I move the stick.
i use the blackwidow FBL , it moves slowly if i tilt it myself . i also use mg90 servos and its on my 450 pro
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 03:13 PM
efx
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Sounds like mine has been working fine. I'm wondering if putting it on the side may have affected it, but I use the programmer to choose one of the three placements. At this point I'm not sure what's going on but I'm making sure things are tighter for next time on the head. I don't need anything coming loose. I'll just adjust the servos to make sure things are even. Still working on it.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 04:00 PM
Team Mulikow 3D
Oxfordshire, UK
Joined Jan 2007
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Originally Posted by efx View Post
I like to use velcro and velcro straps usually and here a cable tie because I like to be able to move things around. Double sided tape is nice, but a pain if I have to take the heli apart. I have been doing this with all my gyros and haven't had a problem. I think the mounting location may also help. I had this inside the 250 and that was working fine just as a gyro but perpendicular to the main shaft, so we'll see.
Sorry, but that just won't work with these - they are much more susceptible to vibes than normal gyros - you will need to firmly mount it using double sided tape to get it to work properly
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 04:45 PM
efx
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Thanks Mike, I will let you know how it goes, now I want to try it because you said it won't work. See what you did...lol. Uploading video of the head setup now...I'll let you guys know when it's done. Now I have to go check that tail because that servo just hasn't felt right since I got it. I hope I don't have to return it. Ugh...

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Originally Posted by MikeHRC View Post
Sorry, but that just won't work with these - they are much more susceptible to vibes than normal gyros - you will need to firmly mount it using double sided tape to get it to work properly
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 04:48 PM
efx
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I think I agree with you Pitchp, these things requires too much mocking around and helis already have enough of this as they are. If this flybarless doesn't work out, I don't think I'll bother buying anything more related to flybarless.

Phew! I put the servo tester on the servo and the servo looks good. I need to check the connections I guess and settings on the gyro.

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Originally Posted by pitchp View Post
yeah I'm also going back to FB on the 250 actually i'm thinking of just dissin this FBL all together. Just FB all the way
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Last edited by efx; Oct 10, 2012 at 04:54 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 05:16 PM
efx
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I just noticed one big difference on the manual from the programmer. Maybe someone can help. The programmer only has one setting which shows 90 as the default. The manual has a collective range pitch range and compensation of pitch to tail which there's only one compensation setting on the programmer and numbers are different from each other. In any case thanks guys, I've checked everything again and things seems to be up again, but we'll see. I apologize for those looking for 250 stuff, but the same thing applies on a 250 if you're using this same unit. Might as well see if I can make it work.

Also someone mentioned the computer program. I have that, but don't have the usb programmer, I use the big programmer on this unit. So I don't have to use a computer.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 05:37 PM
efx
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Here's the video, let me know if I got this right, or not.
Setting up the HK cheap flybarless arms and copter x flybarless gyro (5 min 28 sec)
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by efx View Post
Here's the video, let me know if I got this right, or not.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvXIs1Kjzmw
Ok , thats too slow . mine is slow but not like that .
on takeoff mine wants to tip over too but i just adjust it like a flybar heli. then after it takes off it flys fine . try upping the gain , and with mine it says it needs 8 degrees of cyclic . i just tame it down with dual rates and expo . i will post a vid of mine later .
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 06:22 PM
efx
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I set mine to beginner and it's 40 on pitch and roll and 100 on yaw. I have no idea why this thing is so slow either. I was just staring at the heli and you got me thinking about the servos. I don't know if these systems don't like analog servos. I'm only using them since I'm testing, but now I'm wondering. I'll test the other settings on the programmer first to see if that movement changes on them.

I tried all the settings from the programmer and they still move the same when I move the heli. Weird because when I move the sticks they move fine though.

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Ok , thats too slow . mine is slow but not like that .
on takeoff mine wants to tip over too but i just adjust it like a flybar heli. then after it takes off it flys fine . try upping the gain , and with mine it says it needs 8 degrees of cyclic . i just tame it down with dual rates and expo . i will post a vid of mine later .
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Last edited by efx; Oct 10, 2012 at 06:43 PM.
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