So I just built the f-15 from post number 3, and It still need a bit more power. I had an outrunner, off brand, 1400kv, with a 3 cell 1200 lipo which ran it really slow on a 5x5 on the maiden, and then I kinda had this 9x5 so i tried that, and well, it was a little much...torqued it into the ground on takeoff. anyway, I got a size 370 inrunner to run with the 5x5, which is probably still too big for the motor but whatever. i'm learning. any good suggestions? i want good speed and some climbing power. here's my build log and a video under jet build... you will see my lack of power dilemna in the video..

a 2212/6 Motor with a 6 x 4 prop will work just fine.

http://www.giantcod.co.uk/221206-220...-p-402397.html

This is a link to a UK site but the motor is the same accross the Atlantic.

It powers all my Depron models which weigh from 16 - 22 ounces.

Originally I had a 2408 21 T with an 8" prop on my model which is similar to yours (Made by Foamy Jets over here) but it was a little underpowered and heavy tail end resulting in a lot of nose weight and bigger lipo.

I then came accross the 2212/6 and I use them all the time.

Also there is an alternative which is the Little Screamers Super Park Jet and use a 7 x 5 which I have on a Eurofighter Typhoon. They are very powerful but not as robust as the 2212/6 and can easily bend the stator out of shape which causes the magnets to bind.

http://www.littlescreamers.com/id73.html

I use BP 2216/6 And the BP 2217/4.
The / 4 is 3500 kv so I use a motor / calc to Guess Right.

Originally Posted by lavellr

So I just built the f-15 from post number 3, and It still need a bit more power. I had an outrunner, off brand, 1400kv, with a 3 cell 1200 lipo which ran it really slow on a 5x5 on the maiden, and then I kinda had this 9x5 so i tried that, and well, it was a little much...torqued it into the ground on takeoff. anyway, I got a size 370 inrunner to run with the 5x5, which is probably still too big for the motor but whatever. i'm learning. any good suggestions? i want good speed and some climbing power. here's my build log and a video under jet build... you will see my lack of power dilemna in the video..

2212/6 Motor with a 6 x 4 is ballistic for most models, for last few models I use same motor but with 7x4, lot of thrust, low amp at low throttle but still enough power.. try 7x4 with the same motor it will be much more easier to spin than 9x4 but still more thrust than 5x5 (for that I think that you need some little beast from 2600kv to 3000++ kv)

can i use a 72 mhz reciver in posher prop jets?
i mean for the long wire
it may get damage due to hit by prop
how i can fix this problem?

Yes, You can use 72 mHz.
You can use a base loaded antenna or an Azaar antenna.
I have even made by own base loaded antennas, the plans are
available online. I've even wound the long antenna arround a soda straw or coffee stirrer.
All you need to do if wrapping your long wire up is to be sure you don't cross the wraps ... Needs neet parallel wraps.

my doubt is the space between each wrap
the other is the range.whats the min range?

I have done it, on several models in fact. Wrap the antennae back and forth several times in a neat zig-zag pattern under one wing then hang a bit off of the wing tip, just not long enough to reach the prop. Worked fine, no range issues at all.

Rob...

Does anyone have F-8 cursader plans. If you don't want to post them here email me at greenheaddecoys@comcast.net

thanks

Originally Posted by hersch54

Does anyone have F-8 cursader plans. If you don't want to post them here email me at greenheaddecoys@comcast.net

thanks

Sent you the TIF files for the F8 plans yesterday... Didn't you receive them ?

No not yet but I will check with my friend that has that email address.

http://711c8ng3umu63q3mmbzqjbtm89.hop.clickbank.net

Plans

I already cut my foam, but I cant figure how to connect the motor to battery and reciever and servos and all those parts, Can somebody please send me a diagram for a single EDF foam plane. thanks
K1nouri@yahoo.com

Kayvannouri - I hope you will get this reply as an instant message by email, or it may be a while before you see this. Instant reply is an option if you select the "Go Advanced" option below. What you want to know is real basic and all RC models set up the same way. If you have one you have flown, copy the set up. If not, you have a lot to learn. First, notice the electric motor has three wires, and hopefully each already has a male end connected. If not, you need to learn how to solder, which is far beyond what I will say in this reply. Look for a thread about soldering in RC Groups and read every post, no matter how long it takes. There are a lot of little dos and don'ts you need to know about what is needed and heat management.

Now look at the ESC (electronic speed control). It should also have three wires with female connectors, ready to receive the male connectors on the motor wires. Plug them in, one at a time and hopefully you have a match. If not, you will have to find a proper match and resolder the wires. Again, too much to cover in this reply. Check the threads, read all the postings, and look for video on the topic in Youtube, or another video channel.

The ESC should also have a BEC (battery elimination circuit) plug for the receiver of your RC gear. You will see one socket on the receiver (Rx) marked "batt.", or battery. You should also see a socket marked motor or throttle. Insert the BED plug into the motor or throttle socket on the receiver. Take note you match the colored wires to the proper socket polarity. Normally the black wire is negative and the Rx should have a positive (+) marking on one side of the box, and a negative (-) on the other side of the box. If you plug the BEC in correctly, all is well. Otherwise things will get hot quickly once the battery is plugged in. Heat is the enemy.

The last thing you plug in is the battery. You plug it into the two wires with connectors on the ESC and the battery connector must match. If it doesn't, your best option is to construct or purchase a patch cord. The patch cord has a matching connector for the ESC, and on the other end of the wires, a connector to match the battery plug. Generally speaking, it is a huge mistake to cut off either the ESC connectors or the battery connectors. There are just too many things that can go wrong trying to solder on new connectors. The patch cord is your best option.

Assuming the servo are installed in the airplane model and ready to go, the last thing you need to do is plug the connectors on each servo to the Rx. Match the servo to the Rx label by function. Now the deal is to check you have everything pluged in correctly by polarity and by control surface. If not, you need to unplug the battery right away and find someone near you who flies RC airplanes. Have a club in your area?