Glue your motor in so that the Spinner and the fuselage are parallel if looking from above and from the side.

The front of the fuselage isn't 90° to the side, look at it and you will see.

Here you can see that spinner and fuselage are parallel :





Rolf

What's a good place to get batteries for the Flyzone WWI planes?
Thanks,
Ray

Originally Posted by kostuk

What's a good place to get batteries for the Flyzone WWI planes?
Thanks,
Ray

The Nanotech 160's from Hobbyking work good in all of the flyzone WWI planes.

Thanks UNGN and Merry Christmas!
Ray

PSo you know if the Flyzone 1S batteries have the same plug as the e-Flite and Parkzone batteries?

;23610175 NN 1 - /E=kostuk;23610175]Thanks UNGN and Merry Christmas!
Ray

PSo you know if the Flyzone 1S batteries have the same plug as the e-Flite and Parkzone batteries?[/QUOTE]

HH batteries work perfect in Flyzone planes.

I think they may be in stock at HK, too.

Albatros is out of the box and ready to maiden (...if the 17 mph steady "breeze" dies down soon). Applied Foam Tac to the plastic>foam contacts, vented the motor through the faux #1 cylinder, glued CF rod to underside of top wing between supports and bound the Tx. Only thing left to do is toss it in the air...
Wish me luck!

Maiden flight this morning. Three good flights...a little squirrelly since I bound it to my Tactic 404 instead of my DX7s (AnyLink was free with the plane but didn't include the cable for my Spectrum). I like three channel planes with rudder & elevator on the right stick for coordinated movement (e.g.; Champ, Piece O'Cake motor glider)...this set up has rudder & throttle on the left and elevator on the right. Guess I'll bite the bullet and get the $15 cable so i can program it. Last landing...um...crash was on the spinner. Apparently something is no longer aligned as the prop speed is significantly slower at full throttle. Looks like I'm going in....something I was hoping to avoid.
Regardless, the flights were fun and I look forward to more of them!

Hi,
I was wondering if it were possible to paint the FZ micros with a brush and still get good appearance and flying performance? I don't have an airbrush.
Thanks,
Ray

Ray,

That should not be a problem. I did my mods to two Albatros somewhere back early in this thread. I hand painted both of mine (wings were tissue covered by Speedy01 for me) and mods to the recent SE5a bottom surface and to the Dr-I I hand brushed various paints on these planes. Some of mine were up graded also with the P-51 motor/gearbox but the SE5a & two Dr-I's have the std e-gear.

I've kept the weight down as much as possible 35-36 gr's on the Albatros and Dr-I's and 38 gr's on the SE5a Mods. On the SE I also made a mistake and had to add a different color to the bottom fuselage by hand & brush still not a problem.

Pete

Thanks Pete!
The engine and MG details are really cool!
Ray

You guys are doing some wonderful paint jobs and modifications on your Albatros! I sent mine back to TH to fix a pushrod that kept popping off (could have fixed it myself if I had some Naphtha to unglue it) and they sent me a new plane. (great service)
There is quite a bit of down thrust on the motor... does that look right? Also... I'm sure I'll take the plane apart (found some lighter fluid)... what kind of glue are you using to put it back together?
Thanks for the reply,
Steve

Originally Posted by swcushing

I'm sure I'll take the plane apart (found some lighter fluid)... what kind of glue are you using to put it back together?

Steve,

You'll have "stick" left over as the Naptha quickly evaporates. Since you'll be opening the fuselage again, just use that residual stickiness, and use several small (3/4 in) pieces of clear tape to hold the fuselage together. Then when you need to get back in, just slice the tape along the seam, and again use a little Naptha. Close it back up by putting some more tape over the old tape. For subsequent openings/closings, remove the last layer of tape (saves the paint job and foam).

Gene K

Originally Posted by speedy01

Steve,

You'll have "stick" left over as the Naptha quickly evaporates. Since you'll be opening the fuselage again, just use that residual stickiness, and use several small (3/4 in) pieces of clear tape to hold the fuselage together. Then when you need to get back in, just slice the tape along the seam, and again use a little Naptha. Close it back up by putting some more tape over the old tape. For subsequent openings/closings, remove the last layer of tape (saves the paint job and foam).

Gene K

You can also get a Scotch brand double sided tape if original tape isn't sticky enough to reuse. It is not easy to work with, but looks a LOT better than clear tape pieces over the seam.

I've also used 6 'dots" of canopy glue to join the halves of a FlyZone DR.1 I assembled from parts. That one should come apart with a little water and some patience.

FWIW: There were a bunch of WWI planes at an indoor session I flew at this morning. 3 Albatros', 2 Dr.1's, a couple SE5's, a DH-2, and a Sopwith Triplane. Maybe more than that. We had a great time flying in formation 5-6 at a time.

Thanks for the tips... I got the 1st flight in on the new Albatros and it flew beautifully right out of the box! The down trust is perfect for scale slow flying. Neat little plane, and think I'll get the SE5a next...

Hi,
Is the Naptha lighter fluid also used to remove the glue holding the gear box/motor in place or do you need to cut it out?
Do you use the naptha for removing the struts and landgear?
Thanks,
RAy