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Old Jan 13, 2011, 04:31 PM
Gravity - It's the law
Yabba's Avatar
USA, CO, Denver
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[QUOTE=Tom Frank;17095080]
Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post
You've got two of these already? Are you sure it's not just double vision from all the Vodka?!

OK, assuming you really do have two of them, have you done the date stamp removal on both of them? I thought maybe the power wiring diffences might be a telltale for whether the firmware flash works or bricks the camera? Can you see any difference in the video (other than maybe minor focus differences) between the two, like color saturation, contrast, brightness, etc?
Quote:
assuming
?

Yes, I have done the timestamp removal on both of them.

Differences? Hard to say but I really like the second one better (since it's still working )

Camera 1

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=245

Camera 2

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...2#post17061771

can't do a side by side comparison but number 2 seems better, especially after I focused it

Oh well, what's 40 big ones down the drain for an old retired guy on a fixed income

Yabba

edit, BTW, you might notice the last line of text in the camera 1 post. It should tell you all you need to know
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 04:40 PM
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Prof100's Avatar
Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Ha... not uncommon problem with tiny plugs lugged all over outside and plugged/unplugged hundreds of times. Were you able to isolate and fix your problem?
A couple of new USB cables allows me to charge off my computers. The factory charger is useless now.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 04:42 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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[QUOTE=yabbadaba2;17095386]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post

?
...
Oh well, what's 40 big ones down the drain for an old retired guy on a fixed income

Yabba
Oops.. I forgot the smiley

But about "what's 40 big ones...?"

That's a life time supply of lens cleaner! Or a month of evening "recovery breaks" for thread starters...
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 05:22 PM
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finster's Avatar
Michigan
Joined Feb 2006
502 Posts
Tom- actually I mean refurbished as in rejects from factory fixed and sold...it does look like they were tring to bypass something...maybe the charging circuit...who knows...im not that much into eletronics to say for sure...the videos werent much better than my #3 cam so I figured something was wrong after seeing other videos surface...I did swap firmware but it did nothing to make video better...It wasnt bricked it just had very bad video...strange colors, slower reaction to light, grainy video...
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 05:26 PM
define("BEASTMODE", "1");
KeithLuneau's Avatar
United States, LA, Moreauville
Joined Jan 2002
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I was curious about the car charger, and what was going on with the other pins in the plug, so I opened mine up... There is only two wires coming out of the cable into the charger. So I opened up the USB connector, and still only found the same two wires. All the other pins are just open and not connected. It seems this is just another dumb charger...

Be careful if you open it up though, the red wire pulled off the connected when I opened mine. The wires were glued in very well! It's a simple fix, but still something to be aware of...
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
I was curious about the car charger, and what was going on with the other pins in the plug, so I opened mine up... There is only two wires coming out of the cable into the charger. So I opened up the USB connector, and still only found the same two wires. All the other pins are just open and not connected. It seems this is just another dumb charger...

Be careful if you open it up though, the red wire pulled off the connected when I opened mine. The wires were glued in very well! It's a simple fix, but still something to be aware of...
Can someone explain why the red wire goes in Pin 4 and not Pin 1?
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 06:57 PM
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Hmm... Good point, I didn't even realize that!

I just double checked with the actual contacts in the connector, and pin 5 is ground, pin 4 is positive. Normal pinouts for mini-usb show pin 4 as "not connected"... Maybe they're using an otherwise "extra" pin for charging?

Also, the outer metal part is not connected to ground. Not sure if they usually are on mini-usb, but I would have thought so.

Searching, I found some more...

Quote:
galapogos <goister@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm wondering what the pinout of the mini USB connector is?

There's more than just one mini USB connector.

> I googled for this and found the following 2 standards:
> Pin 1 - VBUS
> Pin 2 - D-
> Pin 3 - D+
> Pin 4 - unconnected
> Pin 5 - GND

> Pin 1 - VBUS
> Pin 2 - D-
> Pin 3 - D+
> Pin 4 - connected to pin 5
> Pin 5 - GND

> So is Pin 4 unconnected or grounded?

You see both approaches.

> I tried probing the mini-USB connector of a 2.5" HDD enclosure that I have with
> a multimeter and pin 4 is apparently grounded as well. Does it even matter?

Nope, doesnt matter if you ground an unconnected pin.

> Also, is the shell also grounded directly

Usually not, but it sometimes is.

> or does it have any capacitors?

Varys.
So, if some cables have pin 4 grounded, wouldn't that be bad for out little cameras? Good reason to watch what cable you use on it, and possibly why some camera are getting hot when used in webcam mode for a while?

Edit - On second thought, I'm now wondering if the red wire did in fact come off of that pin... I assumed it did because there was a little solder left on it, but it also looked like the wired had been hand soldered. Maybe it didn't come off of pin 4 afterall... Anyone care to check the output on their charger and verify it for me? If I've given some bad info I'll edit the post to reflect that...
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Last edited by KeithLuneau; Jan 13, 2011 at 07:55 PM.
Old Jan 13, 2011, 07:16 PM
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Joined Dec 2010
25 Posts
[QUOTE=yabbadaba2;17094741]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I knew I had seen the wires separate like in Finsters images somewhere.

It IS the second camera I got that has the same wiring as yours (Tom's).

Opening the first camera reveals wiring like Finsters. The pos wire goes thru the hole in the circuit board and solders to the opposite side from the neg wire .
Hmmmmm - I am now gettin' a picture.

When I volunteered to risk bricking my first cam, I did open it and noticed that the red wire to the LiPo was going through a hole on the PCB and terminated on what appears to an SMD resistor or diode. This was the poor sucker that had to be returned to China because the date stamp removal program bricked it butt good.

When I received my replacement cam, I opened it again and voilą, the red wire to the LiPo is now connected to an SMD component on the same side of the PCB!

Did we just crack the v1 / v2 mystery?? That v1 are "at risk" units and v2 are safe to update with the firmware supplied? Can someone verify this?? BTW, after focusing, my v2 cam is sharper and has more resolution than anything has a right to be at $39.95 delivered.

clx1
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 07:20 PM
Gravity - It's the law
Yabba's Avatar
USA, CO, Denver
Joined Jul 2008
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[QUOTE=clx1;17096802]
Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post

Hmmmmm - I am now gettin' a picture.

When I volunteered to risk bricking my first cam, I did open it and noticed that the red wire to the LiPo was going through a hole on the PCB and terminated on what appears to an SMD resistor or diode. This was the poor sucker that had to be returned to China because the date stamp removal program bricked it butt good.

When I received my replacement cam, I opened it again and voilą, the red wire to the LiPo is now connected to an SMD component on the same side of the PCB!

Did we just crack the v1 / v2 mystery?? That v1 are "at risk" units and v2 are safe to update with the firmware supplied? Can someone verify this?? BTW, after focusing, my v2 cam is sharper and has more resolution than anything has a right to be at $39.95 delivered.

clx1
Huh, that is interesting. I was able to remove the datestamp on both however so that may be a good clue but there must be more to it.

Yabba
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 07:29 PM
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[QUOTE=yabbadaba2;17096840]
Quote:
Originally Posted by clx1 View Post

Huh, that is interesting. I was able to remove the datestamp on both however so that may be a good clue but there must be more to it.

Yabba
Yes - so when I say the v1 cams may be "at risk", I mean that these cams might not be flashable by the user but could have been updated at the factory by flashing the EEPROM properly or simply had it replaced, as the vendor suggested to me to do myself. However, it sounds like the cams with no red wire going through a hole in the PCB have consistently been able to be flashed successfully by the user.

It would be fun to know if there is fact-based support for this hypothesis without having to brick too many v1 cams.....

clx1
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Last edited by clx1; Jan 13, 2011 at 07:36 PM.
Old Jan 13, 2011, 07:58 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,619 Posts
[QUOTE=clx1;17096802]
Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post

Hmmmmm - I am now gettin' a picture.

When I volunteered to risk bricking my first cam, I did open it and noticed that the red wire to the LiPo was going through a hole on the PCB and terminated on what appears to an SMD resistor or diode. This was the poor sucker that had to be returned to China because the date stamp removal program bricked it butt good.

When I received my replacement cam, I opened it again and voilą, the red wire to the LiPo is now connected to an SMD component on the same side of the PCB!

Did we just crack the v1 / v2 mystery?? That v1 are "at risk" units and v2 are safe to update with the firmware supplied? Can someone verify this?? BTW, after focusing, my v2 cam is sharper and has more resolution than anything has a right to be at $39.95 delivered.

clx1
I just asked Yabba that question, and he confirmed then, and again just now, that he has one of each and both were converted successfully. So we can rule that out as the tell tale, which confirms what the vendor told me... there is no way to tell visually!

I have also asked My Camera Guy about the two different battery wire termination schemes, and why the two different methods. It may be something simple, like one way is easier or faster to do without risking accidentally shorting the battery wires during soldering (mine are very close together and could be easily bridged with solder if not careful)! If you look closely, both schemes terminate the wires in about the same location, just on opposite sides of the circuit board, and those points may have continuity through the board.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Jan 13, 2011 at 08:24 PM. Reason: clean up wording
Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:00 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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[QUOTE=clx1;17096933]
Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post

Yes - so when I say the v1 cams may be "at risk", I mean that these cams might not be flashable by the user but could have been updated at the factory by flashing the EEPROM properly or simply had it replaced, as the vendor suggested to me to do myself. However, it sounds like the cams with no red wire going through a hole in the PCB have consistently been able to be flashed successfully by the user.

It would be fun to know if there is fact-based support for this hypothesis without having to brick too many v1 cams.....

clx1
Only one other person other than yourself has posted in this thread that they bricked their camera from the date firmware swap.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:12 PM
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Joined Dec 2010
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[QUOTE=Tom Frank;17097223]
Quote:
Originally Posted by clx1 View Post
Only one other person other than yourself has posted in this thread that they bricked their camera from the date firmware swap.
So it must have had something to do with ME and my fiddly fingers. The other poster's description of his bricked camera was identical to mine...only a short flashing of the Red LED and nothing....the silence is still vivid im my mind.

If everyone is able to flash then it is indeed happy times for everyone. Thanks, Tom!

clx1
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:20 PM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
Hmm... Good point, I didn't even realize that!

I just double checked with the actual contacts in the connector, and pin 5 is ground, pin 4 is positive. Normal pinouts for mini-usb show pin 4 as "not connected"... Maybe they're using an otherwise "extra" pin for charging?

Also, the outer metal part is not connected to ground. Not sure if they usually are on mini-usb, but I would have thought so.

Searching, I found some more...



So, if some cables have pin 4 grounded, wouldn't that be bad for out little cameras? Good reason to watch what cable you use on it, and possibly why some camera are getting hot when used in webcam mode for a while?

Edit - On second thought, I'm now wondering if the red wire did in fact come off of that pin... I assumed it did because there was a little solder left on it, but it also looked like the wired had been hand soldered. Maybe it didn't come off of pin 4 afterall... Anyone care to check the output on their charger and verify it for me? If I've given some bad info I'll edit the post to reflect that...
Well first off, the red wire in the car charger cable must have the +5V on it (assuming black is ground) from the other end that plugs into the car 12v port. So it has to have been connected to a pin somewhere, or there is no completed circuit to the camera. And if other USB plug chargers do in fact charge the camera battery, then their pin with +5V on it has to be the same in the car charger, or have a jumper to the same pin, or the camera would not charger from a generic charger.

Yet, there is some definitive difference in the car charger from all other USB plug chargers I have tried, and I say that because I just did a car charger test with the HD camera cord. When I plug in the car charger, the red LED does NOT come on (as it does with all other USB plug chargers I've tried, including the PC USB port), but reportedly the camera IS still charging.

Further, when pushing the power button again, the yellow LED lights with all the chargers, but when then pushing the record button, ONLY the HD car charger will start a recording. The others just do nothing (other than continue to charge, presumably).

I'm sure some one will soon confirm the definitive car charger pin/shroud configuration scheme.

The camera gets considerably warmer when connected to its car charger and is shooting video at the same time, but this is expected... the video processor chip is working hard and consuming more current!

I think we will find the "emergency charger" accessory works just like the car charger.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Jan 13, 2011 at 08:50 PM.
Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:23 PM
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Joined Nov 2010
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I'm getting all about who posted what and who is quoting who.

Yabba, What exactly happened to camera 1? or is it a secret?
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