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USA, CA, Chico
Joined Feb 2011
1,749 Posts
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Quote:
DAMM!!!! You guys are REALLY making me want this thing!!! I might just have to bite the bullet and dive in ,,,, pun intended. :-) |
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LI, New York, USA
Joined Mar 2003
22,167 Posts
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Airman 74,
Unless you are flying thermal duration contests, the DX8 will be more than adequate to fly a full house sailplane. If you want a low cost 2M full house get the Radian Pro. Horizon Hobby has templates for the Radian Pro that you can download for the DX8. And I would imagine you could use those templates as starting points for the Mystique. |
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USA, CA, Chico
Joined Feb 2011
1,749 Posts
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Quote:
Pretty impressive for a brain the size of a pea!!! It was estimated he had intelligence equal to about 5 year old human |
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USA, CA, Chico
Joined Feb 2011
1,749 Posts
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Australia, QLD, Beaudesert
Joined Jul 2008
445 Posts
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Hi guys,
I was looking at the radian pro, as I am after a plane with a bit of speed, handle a bit of wind,and is ldecent size. And for the money, I think would be good. Then found the Mystique, and was thinking that to spend the extra and have the size, speed, annd gliding for longer flights.And it sure is a nice looking unit Neal |
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Joined Jun 2010
14 Posts
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A Few Questions
Is it the 870 or the 1250 Power 25 that should be used? Little confused there.
The kit comes with the linkage protectors, but they dont show how they should be attached. It appears your cut them out of the molded form and expoxy them on, but the way they are pictured would lead me to believe there is very little surface that actually comes in contact with the wing surface. Almost like trying to glue a piece of paper on edge to a table, if you know what I mean. There are also 2 other pieces in the mold with a suggested round partially cut circles in the mold, but there is no explaination what those are recommended for. Are those something to protect the undercarriage from getting scratched up on surfaces other than a grass field landing? I would think there would be something protecting the underbelly from getting too beat up.
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Joined Apr 2012
1,577 Posts
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I remember Alex, Airman74. A remarkable animal. Although, it was a little disturbing that his trainer seemed to talk like a parrot too! Hmmm. Who was training who?
I used to live in a river valley that, at the time, was just about the biggest breeding population of Bald Eagles in the lower 48. I could sit in the yard or out in the boat and watch young eagles learning to soar. Make no mistake; they need to learn just like us even if their natural gifts are superior. |
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United States, CO, Lakewood
Joined Jan 2011
116 Posts
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--Jason |
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Dear Horizon
Has anybody there actually built this thing? Using the instructions that come with it?
The descriptions for the aileron servos are adequate. Take another look at the instructions for the flap servos. I presume we use the 3-inch extensions, but the instructions are silent. Page 13 - a glue stick? What are you talking about? Why does the flap servo cover have a slot in it? What should we use to glue the servo fairings to the wing? A little help here, guys. And, look at page 20. There are two sets of camber settings. What should I do? Frustrated. Rick |
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LI, New York, USA
Joined Mar 2003
22,167 Posts
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Quote:
I looked at page 13 and don't see any reference to a glue stick. In fact I can't find a reference to a glue stick anywhere in the manual. Perhaps you could be more specific. The "required" lists 2 kinds of epoxy and 2 CAs, but no glude stick. I don't see any camber settings on page 20 of the PDF manual. But on page 39 it lists: Camber Settings: Speed: 1mm up both ailerons and flaps Cruise: 1mm down both ailerons and flaps Thermal: 3.5mm down both ailerons and flaps Are these what you are asking about? These are typical sailplane camber settings. These mixes would be included in a typical sailplane radio. If this was a pure rather than electric, there would be a launch setting also. And some people have 2 thermal camber settings. If your radio can't provide both ailerons and flaps for your camber settings, then just do the flaps for your camber settings. This will work fine. On a standard 4 channel radio, before there were computer radios, they would just put the flaps on the left stick and had marks that would correspond to the camber setting, or they would use the throttle trims to set camber during the flight. If you are not familiar with camber settings, this may be helpful: Choosing a sailplane radio http://www.flyesl.org/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=223 Best Practices for camber settings http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=403126 Setting Surface Throws http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/vbgl...howentry&id=36 On page 18 of the PDF I see the slot in the flap cover. Good question about the slot. Only guess is that originally the control arms were going to be external and, when they moved them internal the did not redo the flap covers. Or these are covers they use for another model and they just reused them. Likely you can just tape over the slot. If you glued some 1/64 ply over the cover to cover the slot it would be stronger but probably not needed. Typically you don't glue servo covers/fairings to the wing. You tape them on so that you can remove them if you ever have to service the servo or the control arms. Clear packing tape works well. |
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