Originally Posted by Aros

v8, The painting is done. All that's left is adding Callie decals once the paint is completely dry. This particular paint (A new brand of spray enamel I got at Home Depot since it was the only paint I found that was a dark navy blue) is taking forever to completely dry. Of course, it's not Summer here any more so the lack of warmth isn't helping but it's likely going to be another day or two before I feel comfortable applying the vinyl decals without too much paint sticking to the paper as I pull away.

I used my Sharpie metallic silver pen to color the rivet lines...Looks fantastic! Holy cow I was pleased with the initial results. FMS has these rivets raised in the mold so all I did was lightly circle the tops of the "bumps" and man-oh-man, that alone makes it look like a composite!

I'll take photos tomorrow or Sunday depending on weather and when I get the decals applied.

If THIS plane crashes from a non-pilot error I am going to throw up.

Aros can you be specific on the paint you got from Home Depot, brand, name, etc. Is it from a spray can? I'm usually concerned with those because they are petroleum based and attack the foam. Any info would be appreciated thanks!

no problem Brandon ,
by the way did you install the FMS retracts in the LX ???? P40 ?
I did not know LX made a bid Corsair

Oh I get it , that must be the one with the folding wings from "Blitz RC " opps I am sorry I mean LX

Originally Posted by Ldm

Oh I get it , that must be the one with the folding wings from "Blitz RC " opps I am sorry I mean LX

LMAO...Yup, that would be the one....

How good are these retracts. They might be good to go in the HK 1700mm P40n ??

These the ones you used in the lx corsair?

http://rc-castle.com/shop/product_in...oducts_id=2540

Originally Posted by Dangaras

These the ones you used in the lx corsair?

http://rc-castle.com/shop/product_in...oducts_id=2540

Yup...that would be them along with the struts and wheels.

Awesome BM!

Originally Posted by orvel

Aros can you be specific on the paint you got from Home Depot, brand, name, etc. Is it from a spray can? I'm usually concerned with those because they are petroleum based and attack the foam. Any info would be appreciated thanks!

It's Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2X Coverage Gloss Navy Blue.

Says wood, metal, plastic but it's fine on foam. Even heavier coats didn't harm the foam in the least.

Question for you guys...

This is by far the most detailed job I have ever done on a foam warbird. Not to the point of Brandon Moon airbrushing excellence (if only!) but for me, the attention to detail has been better than usual. The paint is done, the trim is done, the Callie decals are set. The paint I chose SUCKS for the record (Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2X Coverage Gloss Navy Blue).

Do NOT use that paint. I let it sit for 3 days and it still peels the vinyl decals like you painted 20 minutes ago. Terrible!

I spent three hours going over all the peel-up paint and it sucked. SUCKED!

Mind you, it looks GREAT now that I did all that work but I would never recommend that kind of work from anybody.

So the question is, now that I have all the paint and decals in place, what do you guys recommend for a great sealer...The base paint is tacky and the rivet work I did is susceptible to weather...I want a good sealer that will seal the tackiness of the paint and protect the decals in the process...

Thanks in advance!

Hi Aros becareful becaferful and did I say becareful ? I also used the same paint on my platt Dora D bash as a primer on the fuse , same results as you but with one more disaster , I started to add the color coat and it "snaked like a river" , chemical reaction between Rustoleimum and color coat .
I have used (on foam ) Testor Flat coat , LOwes Satin flat coat all with good results but if you choose any of them please test on a old part .
If you take the Rustolium to the store they may tell you your options as i know my problem is simple chemistry that I ignored .

I know now that Valspar is superior to this crap that I used. Valspar has this dusty F4U-1 color that is wonderful that sprays light and dries in seconds. This Rustoleum SUCKS. Do not use it, ever.

Problem is, Valspar doesn't have the dark navy blue that I covet for the F4U-4.

So back to my sealer Q...What's a good sealer?

Originally Posted by Aros

I know now that Valspar is superior to this crap that I used. Valspar has this dusty F4U-1 color that is wonderful that sprays light and dries in seconds. This Rustoleum SUCKS. Do not use it, ever.

Problem is, Valspar doesn't have the dark navy blue that I covet for the F4U-4.

So back to my sealer Q...What's a good sealer?

From my experience, do not attempt to seal a paint finish that is tacky. It remains viscous and will react negatively no matter what you put over it.

Give it more time to cure out is all I can advise. Take a breather and enjoy what you've done to this point!

I have found that the expensive tamiya or testors works best. I tried the low odour matte version of Krylon on my H9 corsair as well and it worked well then I could not find it again so I tried the regular version of matte on my A-26 and it made the tamiya acrylic bleed!!

Originally Posted by Aros

Question for you guys...

This is by far the most detailed job I have ever done on a foam warbird. Not to the point of Brandon Moon airbrushing excellence (if only!) but for me, the attention to detail has been better than usual. The paint is done, the trim is done, the Callie decals are set. The paint I chose SUCKS for the record (Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2X Coverage Gloss Navy Blue).

So the question is, now that I have all the paint and decals in place, what do you guys recommend for a great sealer...The base paint is tacky and the rivet work I did is susceptible to weather...I want a good sealer that will seal the tackiness of the paint and protect the decals in the process...

Thanks in advance!

I've never had good luck with Rust-Oleum paint, it seems to take forever to cure, and that was on steel! I can only imagine how it would react on EPO foam? You definitely do not want to try and apply sealer over it till it does cure! By doing so it will never cure out, and you might run the risk of lifting.

How did you prep the surface? Because EPO has a somewhat oily surface do to the molding process I use either lacquer thinner or Acetone to get rid of any contaminants that might poss a problem. "F4U Corsair: My Marines Dream Re-Paint"

I like to use Testors MM enamel paint on my planes. I found their Testors ModelMaster Insignia Blue #FS35044 to be a perfect match for the Corsair dark blue.

Gary