Hi Guy's

How do mask a clean line between colors????
What kind of tape etc do you use??? I am working on a model with fiberglassed balsa wings and tail and a all fiberglassed body.

3-M makes a product for automotive painting called "Fine Line". It workes great for custom paint jobs! It is a thin plastic masking tape you can buy in various widths. Use the 1/8" for tight radius turns and the 1/4" for longer turns. This is used as the masking right up to the edge. Use regular masking tape to cover the rest of the model.

Steve,
I have used the 3M fineline myself but in all reality, it is nearly the same as electrical tape and the electrical tape is much cheaper. You can also use frisket tape. It doesn't hold that strongly if you are concerned about peeling the subsequent paint job off. I also use regular Scotch tape.

Whatever you plan to use, make sure that you don't leave the tape/tapes on too long. Some types come off without any problems, others not so.
Perry

RudderMan, I like your idea with the electrical tape, it would cut $$$ of a paint job. I do think that the Fine Line tape has a "Thinner" plastic film thickness than the other though. What the heck, I'm will to try it out. One thing that this discussion brings back to memory is that timing the tape removal is another key to getting a nice sharp "Edgefree" partline. I did a stint doing custom paint on vans when they were a hot commodity (70's, dates me doesn't it) and we would actually pull tape while it was still not fully dry. This allowed the paint edge a chance to "Lay Down" and made for less prep on the following coats. The paint should be just beyond tacky, not too wet. Man I miss the smell of Lacquer, NOTTT!

Agree with Greg & Perry - use good tape and take it off as soon as the paint is tacky.

When using regular (cheap) masking tape, one trick with models was to run a thin line of clear dope along the edge of the tape. That would seal it completely, no chance of colour 'bleeding'. But with plastic tape this shouldn't be necessary.

Another good cheat (though better for sport models than scale) ... if you do end up with a ragged line between two colours you can cover it with a pinstripe tape, either one that matches one of the paints (if you can get it) or a contrasting colour like black.

Thanks Guy's

Your replys have been a big help. I will try this out tonight on a test panel!!!!!!!!!!

Bill,
I have tried your method with great results. I only use it only when I have a surface that is irregular such as foam, coarse wood, or any surface that could pose a problem with "bleed through". I have also sprayed a coat or two of clear on a rough surface prior to final color coating to prevent the bleed trough from starting. Both methods work well. Make sure the clear and the color topcoat are compatable or else you could have a bigger problem to deal with. There is a rule of thumb to remember if you are using laquer based and enamel based paints. The rule is: Enamel over lacquer, not lacquer over enamel. If you go the latter, you WILL have some cleaning and scraping to do.

Hey Greg!
I remember those vans! By the way. Be careful with the vynil tapes being on a painted surface too long. The adhesive tends to leave a mark in the soft paint so make sure your paint is cured out before you proceed to do your other colors. (Test a scrap piece first). Also silver paint does not take to kindly to being taped to. All tapes leaves a REAL nasty mark on silver paint. Good painting to you all!
Perry

Steve_S

I recently read an article that addressed the problem you're having. The author said that he often shot a light coat of the base color along the masking line first, then the trim color. That way if there was any bleeding under the tape it would be the same color as the base and you'd have a sharp trim line. I haven't put this to practice yet, but it sounds like it would work.