Originally Posted by Isoprop

Motion detection and time lapse are a conflicting pair, so you can't combine them.
Both motion detection and time lapse work separately.

The #11 only supports time lapse of 10, 20 or 60 seconds. If you want a wider range (from 0.5 sec. to 60 secs.) then the #16 is the better choice.
You also have more control over motion detection on the #16 (duration and sensitivity), but you also cannot combine the two, for obvious reasons.

If you don't already have a #11, I strongly suggest you take a look at the #16 thread. The #16 is by far the most versatile and supported camera in the 808 size.

Maybe you just misunderstood my question or maybe my english is not that good lol but i did not asked about the combination of both or recording both features at the same time. I just asked if it supports motion detection and time lapse. Anyway you already answered it. Thank you.

Originally Posted by massimopaolo28

Maybe you just misunderstood my question or maybe my english is not that good lol but i did not asked about the combination of both or recording both features at the same time. I just asked if it supports motion detection and time lapse. Anyway you already answered it. Thank you.

No problem with you English, it was me who falsely read in-between the lines

so which keycam (#11 or #16) is better in terms of video quality like sharpness? i watched some youtube videos comparing #11 and #16 and most of them finds that #11 is better in video quality.

Originally Posted by massimopaolo28

so which keycam (#11 or #16) is better in terms of video quality like sharpness? i watched some youtube videos comparing #11 and #16 and most of them finds that #11 is better in video quality.

Sharpness will depend how well the lens is focused at the factory. My guess is it's pot luck if your lens is 100% focused. You can focus the lens yourself but it's fiddly and you can easily crack the wires in the ribbon cable rendering the lens unit useless. I know the #16 developer has analyzed many, many, lenses for his camera and is always looking for alternatives. I don't think the #11 developer has done this, but I may be wrong.

I don't know which comparison videos you have found on youtube, because there must be hundreds, but it's almost impossible to do a true comparison because of the different lens' used and the different AOV which each lens type has. The #16 developer currently offers 3 different lens types, the #11 only has one.

If you are comparing video quality, then you may well be looking at older video material. The quality has always been almost identical, but there are definitely color and saturation differences between the two models. Since these can be individually configured, it makes a comparison all but impossible. For many months it's been possible to adjust the #16 color settings and lately it's also possible to adjust the #11 color settings. If you are comparing older video material, then the #16 used to show much more natural colors whereas the #11 used to have more saturated colors. Some people prefer the unnatural colors. Today's firmware allows you to adjust the colors, so these comparisons are no longer valid.

In a nutshell I would say both cameras are very similar and are fine for general-purpose use. If you dig deeper you'll find big differences which greatly affect the final results. I have been using and testing both models ever since they were introduced, and I prefer the #16 in all instances. I just find it the far better camera in terms of flexibility and simplicity, but that's my personal opinion.

I also like it how the #16 developer has all the good firmware ideas and is truly innovative. The #11 developer copies these ideas.
On the other hand, the #11 developer is innovative as far as hardware design is concerned. He designed the "smiley" #11 and I believe the latest #18 MD80 is also his design. Now it's high time to develop a Gumpack model which has a flat surface unlike the MD80. The MD80 is all but impossible to attach using the front side, but I'm diverting....

Before I got my #16 I bought an #11. I don't use it much now as quality is way behind the #16, But, I wondered if I could update the FW etc. Now, How do I identify if I have a genuine #11 before I try updating it? What do I look for? It works OK but I would hate to brick it.

Originally Posted by Grantham Kid

Before I got my #16 I bought an #11. I don't use it much now as quality is way behind the #16, But, I wondered if I could update the FW etc. Now, How do I identify if I have a genuine #11 before I try updating it? What do I look for? It works OK but I would hate to brick it.

There are lots of different versions of the #11
Some have a 5-pin mini USB socket, some have an 8-pin mini USB socket, some have a Hynix DRAM chip, others have a Samsung DRAM chip, some are marked #18 under the lens cable, some are marked with www.htinter.com....

The recorded file naming convention also differs...

Anyway, the #11 is compatible with the #18 so that makes things easier.
Also, the #18 has two LEDs, red and yellow.
Which leaves the final test: If the red LED turns on while charging but never turns on if the cable is disconnected, then you either have a #11 or a #18, which are identical as far as firmware goes.

But not quite
Some cameras have a different bootloader installed. If the old bootloader is installed, you won't be able to update to the latest firmware.

I have replied to a similar question on the #18 thread. However, I just googled for the loader I mentioned and it is no longer available. Well, that's tough. Maybe the developer has asked all the posters to remove the file, I don't know.

Thanks Isoprop. I will check those points.
Edit: It uses the same mini USB as my 16 v2 but it only has a yellow LED at all times. It takes avi. video. It works OK, just not as good as the #16.
If nothing else, I have a spare case. :-) (and mem card)
The box it came in is probably the best part.....

Originally Posted by Grantham Kid

Thanks Isoprop. I will check those points.
Edit: It uses the same mini USB as my 16 v2 but it only has a yellow LED at all times. It takes avi. video. It works OK, just not as good as the #16.
If nothing else, I have a spare case. :-) (and mem card)
The box it came in is probably the best part.....

If it came in a box, then I don't think it is a #11, #18 or #16. I don't recall that these were ever sent in a box. BTW, I forgot the most important part - check that the processors is a Novatek, see picture below.


Your layout may be completely different, but the processor is the same in all of the above mentioned cameras. The picture above is from a V2 #11 with the 2 LEDs situated below the lens cut-out.

My close up cam isn't as good as yours Isotrop. It looks like a junker. I emailed the fellow that sold me this and told him he was misrepresenting these cams. He claimed in his ads that it was a HD cam. Funny thing is he agreed with me and told me he was changing his supplier but he didn't offer a refund.
Cam.


Box

Originally Posted by Grantham Kid

My close up cam isn't as good as yours Isotrop. It looks like a junker. I emailed the fellow that sold me this and told him he was misrepresenting these cams. He claimed in his ads that it was a HD cam. Funny thing is he agreed with me and told me he was changing his supplier but he didn't offer a refund.
Cam.


Box
.....

You should try and get your money back and/or report the seller to eBay.
The cam he sold you has absolutely no resemblance to the #11. It's most probably some cheap $9 camera.
The tell-tale is the 16 pins connecting the CMOS module. Not nearly enough for 720p!
Chuck Lohr's site may help you in finding out what junk you have been sold.

Note: If the camera was advertised as HD and not as a #11, then the ad was correct. HD is not HD, what you want is 720p.

[EDIT] Also the box clearly states 720x480, and even that is most probably inflated from the original resolution by software. Low-res at the best! [/EDIT]

Did a little flying this morning. Just a little square of velcro holding the #11 on the Easy Star's wing. I've done it before with similar results, haven't lost it yet!

Xmas Eve Easy Star FPV 2 of 3 - 808 HD #11 (12 min 24 sec)

Does anyone have any bright ideas for a custom-made case replacement for a Jumbo 808, or where to pick up an original, empty case?

I've stepped on mine. Camera works fine, case looks like it partied too hard.

Seeing nice mods of normal 808's, but not of Jumbos. eBay stores that I could find do not seem to carry empty cases...

Originally Posted by SteveCB

Does anyone have any bright ideas for a custom-made case replacement for a Jumbo 808, or where to pick up an original, empty case?

I've stepped on mine. Camera works fine, case looks like it partied too hard.

Seeing nice mods of normal 808's, but not of Jumbos. eBay stores that I could find do not seem to carry empty cases...

I would think your best bet would be to email the seller from whom you bought your camera. Failing that, you'll most probably have problems in locating a spare case. Maybe send him a picture so he knows what you're talking about, or post your picture here and send him a link.

Does anyone elses camera not go into standby mode if you turn it on and don't hit the shutter button to record? I could have sworn it turned itself off in the past, but now it just stays on until i manually turn it off.

. The picture above is from a V2 #11 with the 2 LEDs situated below the lens cut-out.[/QUOTE]

I´ve been asking for advice on the #18 tread but now when I came across this
pic........ maybye.... Isoprop you don´t happen to have a pic of the flipp side?

Does the #11 cam also have 2 led´s (red charg/yellow on)?

My Problem will remain seens I can´t load any firmware anyhowe, but at least I´ll know why if I can confirm it´s not #18 but an #11 v2 cam I´ve got