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Old Jul 03, 2014, 06:00 PM
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central AZ
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Old Top Flite nylon props

I happen to have quite a few of these, especially in 7x6. I'm aware of the need to boil them, as well as their deterioration with age. Whether I'll run them or sell them to a collector, I haven't decided just yet.

That being said, I have two types of the 7x6. One is natural nylon without any tip markings at all (size and brand info being molded in). The nylon of these appears whiter than the others. Anybody have any idea as to why?

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Old Jul 04, 2014, 01:18 AM
Sticks, Tissue & old Diesels
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This is just my opinion, but it's based on a lot of experience.
One of my main interests and activities is "playing with engines".
I have a lot of Topflite nylon props (maybe around 200), and many other similar (e.g. Tornado).
I've never boiled one, never had any problem, and I'm still using a 10x6 that I know I purchased in 1961...
The only breakages I've had were in cases of a plane crash with the engine running.
For that reason, I think the "boiling" was probably invented by control line combat fliers.
My only action is to make sure they're reasonably balanced, and my only safety precaution is to never use them with modern schnürle generation engines.
They're excellent on any engine up to the "Cox TD" generation or equivalent.
The "white" color does vary a bit. As you say, most are "creamy", but some are whiter and slightly more transparent. Must be due to variations in the plastic composition, maybe they dyed the creamy color.
Cleaning the propeller with acetone or similar will remove the red markings. If your "plain" propeller really has "Topflite" molded in, then I think that's probably the reason. BUT Topflite (and Tornado) patterns were produced under license by several other manufacturers (no red markings and only the size molded in).
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Old Jul 04, 2014, 07:40 AM
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I would agree with BrokenEnglish. I would not use the propellers on a more modern Schnuerle ported engines. The old cross flow scavenged or baffled piston engines would likely work fine with the propellers. I think that the big problem with the propellers was that you cannot tell if one is damaged or not. Thus the damaged prop could fail and shed one or two blades when you don't expect it.
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Old Jul 04, 2014, 08:48 AM
Edubarca
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I also agree!!! I love nylon props. I'm extremely sorry that they don't make them any more. Naturally, no good for a screaming ASP .61 engine or similar but for nice little humble engines like a .09, .12, .15 up to perhaps a 25 are excellent. They seldom break, last forever and look very nice.
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Old Jul 04, 2014, 03:10 PM
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Thanks for the comments, all.

I have a healthy number of these 7x6 props, about 12 of which are the brighter white with no markings (just the size molded into the prop blade, and Top Flite's info molded into the front of the hub), the rest being the usual cream color with red markings.

As for what engines I'd use them on, they'd primarily go on either Cox engines (though the 7x6 may be a bit much for the .049/.051, and perhaps the .09 is too powerful), maybe an old baffled Enya .09 or OS .10, or on 1.00cc diesels or smaller (PAW55, PAW80, PAW100, ED Bee, OK Cub .074, etc). I'm not looking to extract a ton of power out of any of them right now, so I think they'll be fine. They do include instructions to boil them, though I've heard dropping them in hot water and leaving them there for 24-48 hours can accomplish the same thing. For what it's worth, all the ones I've "tested" so far with bending seemed fine. None of them snapped, and all felt rather pliable for their age. They do look great, and should compliment the likes of a Vic Smeed Tomboy or the FlyLine Quaker Flash I have, so we'll see.
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Old Jul 04, 2014, 03:18 PM
Edubarca
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As you say, a 7 x 6 is too much a prop for Cox or any .049/.051 engines, These were all designed to give their highest power with high reving, contrary to diesels. As for boiling them I have never done that and never had a problem with them By the way, anybody knows whatever happened to Grish Brothers and Tornado props?
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Old Jul 04, 2014, 03:49 PM
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Grish are still sold on eBay, as I picked a few of those up recently as well. I believe Jennifer Grish is the lady selling them these days, goes by the username "jlg511" on eBay. Real nice lady with good service. I got a few from the Tempest line (have a bit of flex), and a few Magnum (black reinforced ones). Not run any yet, but plan to soon.

As for the TF nylon props, I guess my comment on the .049 was referring to a few other sizes I have (such as 5.25x4 and 6x3). They're classic looking props, and I really enjoy the look of the wide paddle the blades have.
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Old Jul 04, 2014, 05:24 PM
Edubarca
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Thanks for the info. I'll try to contact Jennifer.
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Old Jul 05, 2014, 06:41 AM
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The 7x6 size prop was/is commonly used on .15 glow engines. But some small diesels might use them as well.
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Old Jul 05, 2014, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earlwb View Post
The 7x6 size prop was/is commonly used on .15 glow engines. But some small diesels might use them as well.
The 7 x 6 nylon used to be the prop of choice for use in 1/2A (1.5cc) combat with such engines as the Frog 150 - gave just the right combination of speed and pull and didn't usually break when you stuck the model in the ground.
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Old Jul 05, 2014, 12:56 PM
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The 7 x 6 nylon used to be the prop of choice for use in 1/2A (1.5cc) combat with such engines as the Frog 150 - gave just the right combination of speed and pull and didn't usually break when you stuck the model in the ground.

That's great news, given that I'd like to try 1/2A Combat and I happen to have a few 1.5cc diesels.
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Old Jul 09, 2014, 12:15 AM
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A 7x6 prop provides a similar load as an 8x5 or 9x4.

I too have old nylon props going back to the 1960's. The limitations are the rpm, so the engine size should perhaps be such that you don't go much past 12,000 rpm, or less on the bigger 11,12 inch props. I've seen 11x7.5 wood come apart and loose their blades at high rpm, so I certainly wouldn't used a nylon with the same motor.

Boiling seemed to help keep the prop flexible. Also boiling with a dye to colour the prop worked well

I found this 7x6 size a bit too much for a 2.5cc (.15). An 8x4 on glow or a 9x4 on diesel usually worked best for me on a model of 300 to 350 sq in and around 30 oz auw.

My MVVS 2cc works best on a 7x4 or 8x3,and my
Cox TD .09 likes a 7x4
Webra Speedy 1.8cc likes a wide blade MAS 7x4.

Cox 0.049 , 6x4, 6x3 down to 5x3.

1/2A used to be less than 0.051 and
0.051 to .19 used to be A class. Not sure what the range is to-day.
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Old Jul 09, 2014, 01:50 AM
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1/2A used to be less than 0.051 and
0.051 to .19 used to be A class. Not sure what the range is to-day.
Not in the UK John. 1/2A combat has always been 1.5cc (.09 ci) and way back 1/2A team race started as 0.8cc (.049 ci) but almost immediately changed to 1.5cc which it has been ever since. Strangely and confusingly enough, the 0.8 cc speed class is often referred to as "1/2A"
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Old Jul 09, 2014, 11:03 PM
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My understanding is that boiling was for relieving stresses in the nylon after the molding process. I don't think it does anything now because all the existing nylon props left their molds a long time ago! The nylon does not absorb water so it is not hydrating it or anything like that. I do sometimes still use them on my oldies.

Jim
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Old Jul 10, 2014, 01:19 AM
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At the time we did read in magazines to boil the nylon props to avoid breaking due to drying out. Nylon, by the way, does absorb water indeed.
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