Originally Posted by Mr. Wiz

Hugh,

I haven't installed anything yet. It's all just set in there. I don't want to start fastening things down until I know what's all going to go in there... as in how much lead and how much space does it take up.. That said, I intended to install the stuff like the guy did that built my first Polaris. That being, battery all the way forward, servo in about the middle of the hatch opening and then the RX tucked in under the aft part of the hatch. Now the old plane has a switch jack between the battery and the servo but I want to use my Shred battery and avoid the necessity of the switch jack. I suppose I could go to a 1 cell lipo and use the switch jack but what's the advantage? Not having to open the canopy to turn on and off the plane... That's not much of an advantage for an additional failure point and a more crowded pod.

I RARELY go into my hatch after planes are built. I'm not a Shred guy but my setup is 600ma 1S LiPo in the nose. Elevator servo pushed all the way up to the battery(holds the battery in place and is still removable). . 3/32" tungsten rods on top of the battery . Receiver on top of tungsten(on top of battery) in front of the servo. My switch jack(sorry) is on top of the forward part of the servo holding the receiver and wires in place. I chose to go with a switch jack because I think plugging in and unplugging wires that were not intended for this repeated process is not good in the long run(just my personal opinion). With this set up my heavy layup CG at 68mm (with a heavy full carbon vertical) comes in at 280gr , a click under 10oz.. The key is to push everything as far forward as possible.

HUGH

Originally Posted by Mr. Wiz

You can't buy lead shot any more, can you? I might have a little left from my old skeet shooting days. I'll have to go digging.

Mcmaster Carr sells it.

Mix the lead shot with rubber cement. It's more secure and compact than the plastic bag and you can easily remove a bit with a screwdriver, unlike epoxy.

Interesting. The only reason I have to go into the hatch is to access the jumper on the Shred. What 600mah 1 cell do you use and where to you get that tungsten?

Mike

Originally Posted by HHARRIS

I RARELY go into my hatch after planes are built. I'm not a Shred guy but my setup is 600ma 1S LiPo in the nose. Elevator servo pushed all the way up to the battery(holds the battery in place and is still removable). . 3/32" tungsten rods on top of the battery . Receiver on top of tungsten(on top of battery) in front of the servo. My switch jack(sorry) is on top of the forward part of the servo holding the receiver and wires in place. I chose to go with a switch jack because I think plugging in and unplugging wires that were not intended for this repeated process is not good in the long run(just my personal opinion). With this set up my heavy layup CG at 68mm (with a heavy full carbon vertical) comes in at 280gr , a click under 10oz.. The key is to push everything as far forward as possible.

HUGH

Alright, Hugh... With the help of a friend I located some 3/32" tungsten welding rod.

http://weldingdirect.com/10pactc2cert.html

I still have a switch jack from my pre Shred days but what I don't have is a source for single cell 600 mah lipo that I think will fit. in the pod. I like the idea of taping the hatch closed and not having to get in there but once every so often to inspect things.

Mike

Originally Posted by Mr. Wiz

Alright, Hugh... With the help of a friend I located some 3/32" tungsten welding rod.

http://weldingdirect.com/10pactc2cert.html

I still have a switch jack from my pre Shred days but what I don't have is a source for single cell 600 mah lipo that I think will fit. in the pod. I like the idea of taping the hatch closed and not having to get in there but once every so often to inspect things.

Mike

I use the Lectron pro 600mah batteries. Also you can use the Eflite 500mah battery. I fly comfortably for 1.5hrs with either of those. The tungsten is what I use. I make 4 small pieces to add up to the weight that I need. Then I tape them to the top of the battery as far forward as possible. The middle two pieces will hang off the battery a bit in the front.

HUGH
:-)

That sounds like a good solution.

Thanks Hugh!

Originally Posted by Mr. Wiz

That sounds like a good solution.

Thanks Hugh!

No problem! Also if your winter drags out to long ship that thing to me and I'll break her in nice and easy for ya... That's right, I'm a giver

HUGH

Oh gee... Thanks for the generous offer but I think I'll have to decline.

For cheap tungsten check out derby car sites like this. http://www.derbychamp.com/Pinewood-D...ights-s/51.htm

I wrap the slugs in putty and press them into the nose cone. This usually puts the entire weight farther forward than I can get the battery.

I am using a nanotech 1200 mAh 1S (23g) battery in the nose. Works perfect with no added noseweight. More capacity than I can use without taking a break...

Joe,

Are you using one of their round lipos? I'd much rather carry a bigger battery than a hunk of otherwise useless metal.

that is indeed a round Lipo.

Thanks...

It's also out of stock. I'm going to try to get a couple of the 900 mah ones.

I was able to finally maiden my Polaris today!

What a great flying airplane even without a rudder! I set mine up as per the Jonas setup sheet and she flies great. It is a medium layup with the molded in servos and am using a MKS 65 for the elevator with pushrod. With the Craig Robinson seagull peg it came out to 9.8oz balanced at 69mm. It felt like I could move the cg back a little more, will have to try that later. What it the farthest aft cg anybody is using for the Polaris?

Looks like I am going to have to order another one and sell my Stobel's!





The receiver and 2 cell lipo are in the nose with the PLD regulator just in between the servo. I am using Airtronics and was able to put one antenna behind the servo on the floor and the other one taped to the hatch. No range issues what so ever!

Mark Gauding