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Old Mar 09, 2013, 02:58 PM
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curious....motor reverse?
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Old Mar 11, 2013, 10:57 PM
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Hi Yancovitch. I'd assume it can reverse direction. Our local r/c club does fun runs in the winter at an indoors swimming pool. Probably good to be able to back up a bit then.
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Old Mar 16, 2013, 05:23 PM
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Week 29: Bottom painting

Coppering. I flipped the Theresa Marie upside down and applied two coats of black paint. That was the easy part. Transferring the exact measurements for the waterline from the two dimensional plans to the three dimensional ship via masking tape was more of a challenge. I basically just measured off one foot distances and connected them with tightly stretched tape.

I applied three coats of the same bronze paint I had used to cover the copper tape on the gun port lids. Going for that shiny new copper look. Everything looked good until I flipped it over and removed the tape, then the waterline didn't look so straight along parts of the curvy hull. So I applied more tape along the edges, using my Mark I eyeball this time, and applied three coats of bronze to the needed areas. Good enough for now.

And no, I wasn't about to spend dozens of hours painstakingly scoring simulated copper plate lines on the bottom.

Rudder and drive unit. Meanwhile up in Minnesota... Dan was kind enough to help drill a removable pin in the metal rudder axel and craft an attachment for the drive pod (that Rick at Scalemodelcastings.com had made for me over half a year ago). This was the part of the build that I would probably have voted "Most likely to fail doing it by myself". What a guy! If the propulsion system has to have a name, I guess it would now be "The Danrick Drive".
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Old Mar 17, 2013, 12:55 AM
Taking care of the pond.
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I like it.
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Old Mar 18, 2013, 01:22 PM
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Question. Anyone got a favorite ESC they would recommend for my Theresa Marie?

Here was the info Rick from Scalemodelcastings.com gave me:

"Whatever ESC you choose it will need to be able to handle 12 volts @ 12 amps max. You may use lower voltage as the unit may be powerful enough with 7.2 volts. But inversely dont go over the 12 volt of the 3s pack. "

"The unit as tested pulled 7.5 amps at full load."

"Hobbyking does not sell brushed motor esc's that have reverse, so thats coming form somewhere else."
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Old Mar 18, 2013, 08:18 PM
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Since you will not need the precision, try a mechanical one. It's a lot cheaper than electronic ones, and simpler. It's about $20, and has two speeds forward and one reverse. Check Jerry Todd's Constellation thread for more info. I use it in Kruzenshtern, but it has not been tested yet.

Alex
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Last edited by yalex; Mar 18, 2013 at 09:54 PM.
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Old Mar 19, 2013, 12:27 AM
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Alex has a good point that precision speed control isn't needed, but I've used mechanical speed controllers. They waste power with a load resistor that can get hot. Also, in a boat environment with possible water exposure, I would pay a bit more and go with a waterproof electronic speed controller.
I think you are using LiPo batts to run your brushed motor. LiPo's DO NOT like to be run low - it can destroy the batt and even cause them to fail on attempted charging.

This Mtroniks Viper Marine 15A ESC is specifically for boats and can be set up to efficiently and safely run with your motor and LiPo batts:

From the UK for $38 plus $3 shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mtroniks-Vip...679#vi-content

Same ESC, but from US supplier for $46 plus shipping (about $8):
http://www.mikessubworks.com/page1.html (look under Electronics: Speed Controls on the left side menu)

It's a great ESC - I have many of them and they work great. Have one in Syren. Read the safety features that this ESC offers that a mechanical controller can't touch. It's OK to order from the UK - shipping is only $3 and you get quick delivery.
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Last edited by DanL; Mar 21, 2013 at 09:17 AM. Reason: added US supplier
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Old Mar 19, 2013, 08:03 AM
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good point about waterproofing and power wasting, Dan.
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Old Mar 19, 2013, 10:46 PM
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Andrew,

She looks great with the paint!! Very nice.

best regards
Tim
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Old Apr 30, 2013, 02:23 PM
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Week 35: Rudder

After a short break from working on the Theresa Marie...

Rudder time. Finally got around to drilling the hole in the deck for the rudder. Had to shave the plastic a bit just below the rudder shaft adapter to get it to fit. Dan did a good job in cutting the metal shaft and attaching the adapter just right to allow everything to fit snug.

Now to figure out exactly how to mount everything. I'm planning to try the SC&H recommended way first, in which you mount the servo upside down directly over the rudder shaft adapter.

ESC learning time. Per Dan's advice I bought a Viper Marine 15 ESC. All new to me. Time to learn the differences in the world of r/c plug types. Viper is a Tamiya style. Servos are HiTech. All my Beagle stuff were Futaba. Drive unit has some kind of a three prong type.

Paint rudder? Not sure the clear rudder extension is going to look right with the drive unit mounted. So I might consider actually painting it copper and black like the hull, and probably also paint the drive unit.
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Old Apr 30, 2013, 03:02 PM
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Good to see the progress again. Some comments....

"ESC learning time. Viper is a Tamiya style. Servos are HiTech..."

The Viper plugs into the receiver, not servos. Be sure the red wire (and only the red wire) on the Viper signal cable (the flat cable with three wires, not the fatter red power wire) is cut. Your receiver is getting power from the main battery. You don't want the Viper to also be feeding power to the receiver. See diagram in the Viper instructions. The battery feeds drive unit power to the Viper thru the heavy red and black wires. The controlled power out of the Viper to the drive unit is thru the yellow and blue wires.


"Drive unit has some kind of three prong plug"
It's a 3-pin mini-Dean's plug. One pin is "dead" - it serves only to align the correct pos/neg pin orientation for the two powered pins. Both the male and female plugs are there. The female permanently attaches thru a hole in the hull. That wire goes back to the blue and yellow of the Viper. The male plug is at the end of the wire that goes to the drive unit, allowing it to be unplugged to allow the drive to be taken off if necessary.


"...also paint the drive unit"
Get no paint anywhere near the prop shaft and seal.
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Last edited by DanL; Apr 30, 2013 at 03:07 PM.
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Old May 06, 2013, 12:51 PM
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Thanks Dan.

Need some advice on the rudder.

The SC&H instructions warn never to turn the servo by hand or you'll bust it. But if its attached directly to the rudder and the rudder gets bumped during transport, won't that be bad? I seem to recall some people disconnecting their rudder connection during transport.

So now I'm thinking of maybe mounting the servo upside down on the inside wall I added for the captain's cabin, and just run lines directly from the rudder's arm to it.

But then I have to figure out how to secure the arm to the rudder shaft adapter.
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Old May 06, 2013, 01:26 PM
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Andrew,
I think I used a screw instead of a pin to lock the rudder shaft adapter onto the rudder shaft.
You can just unscrew that screw and the rudder will swivel freely in the adapter.
When ready to sail, just screw it back in.
Another option is to use a clamp across the bottom of the rudder and the hull to keep the rudder from swinging.
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Old Jul 12, 2013, 06:14 PM
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Arrr....

Just wanted to give everyone a quick update. For the last two months my hobby time has shifted to playing a couple of computer games, Eve Online and Pirates: Tides of Fortune (a Facebook game). I'm having a lot of fun with them both (though I cringe whenever one of my Brigs gets sunk in the Pirates game) so I'm not sure how much longer it will distract me. Arrr... pirates....

The next step on the Theresa Marie will be figuring out how to deal with the different plugs, affixing the keel and getting her first powered sail test.
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Old Jul 12, 2013, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpop Andrew View Post
Thanks Dan.

Need some advice on the rudder.

The SC&H instructions warn never to turn the servo by hand or you'll bust it. But if its attached directly to the rudder and the rudder gets bumped during transport, won't that be bad? I seem to recall some people disconnecting their rudder connection during transport.

So now I'm thinking of maybe mounting the servo upside down on the inside wall I added for the captain's cabin, and just run lines directly from the rudder's arm to it.

But then I have to figure out how to secure the arm to the rudder shaft adapter.
I never had any problems with leaving the rudder swing side to side. In fact it was heavy enough that when transporting on the launch cart it would turn the servo. I really do not think this is a problem as I have pulled the braces a number of times and turned the winch drums without any power and I never had a problem with those either.
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