I could not have done it without your tutorial.
Will post photos as soon as I figure out how to do it from the iPad.

Merry Christmas Freddie! Thank you for sharing your techniques in this thread (and many others) and for being a gracious friend to us all at such different stages in the hobby.

Hi guys.

What would be the UK equivalent of Krylon? Is it an acrylic clear rattle can from the motor factors shop, like the clear coat you use on metallic painted plastic bumpers?
I've just hand painted my roundels on my Blenheim, and although they're not too bad, they would've looked a million times better with this method, and I like the cheapness of this too!
If there are any UK readers of this that can answer the above I would really appreciate it.

Thanks

Daz

Daz,

Krylon is Lacquer paint. I am sure Lacquer is available there. Light weight, goes on thin, very fast dry, and not awfully expensive. Usually used in automotive finish on custom jobs, because they can do the'Candy Apple' type finishes. Rattle cans are available in most box stores as 'Lacquer' and most have Krylon also.

Fred

Hi Fred.
That sounds like what I thought it was. Clear coat automotive paint.

My concern is that will this stiffen the tissue too much? I will be trying this out soon and will post pics.

Thanks

Originally Posted by Daz393

Hi Fred.
That sounds like what I thought it was. Clear coat automotive paint.

My concern is that will this stiffen the tissue too much? I will be trying this out soon and will post pics.

Thanks

Some people actually use "Krylon Paint" (Lacquer) to finish tissue airplanes instead of Dope. Spray on a few light coats letting it dry in-between with a light sanding. It does not shrink as much as dope does, but works for many builders.

Fred

Originally Posted by jeffsch

Merry Christmas Freddie! Thank you for sharing your techniques in this thread (and many others) and for being a gracious friend to us all at such different stages in the hobby.

And the same 'Merry Christmas" and a "Happy New Year" to you also Jeff! You are welcome BTW, and I am happy to have you as a friend also! Take care buddy.

Fred

Lozenge mounting update - lessons learned.
1) Minwax has its advantages. After first dismissing Minwax, I've done a 180 and think it is the best solution for adhering the lozenge sheets. I'd made up a test portion of wing and experimented with Minwax, white glue diluted and dope. Initially, I thought the dope was the best since it gave a quick and firm seal of the transfer to the underlying airframe. Additional work however showed that Minwax takes longer to dry and thus allows more time to reposition the panels into place. Dope also, especially when "hot" with thinner, allowed the undercoat of Krylon to seep through. If not using an undercoat, this would not be a problem. The dope also gave the most matte finish. I'd meant to try using dope straight, I.e. with no thinner, but ran out of test space.
2) the white undercoat, again Krylon sprayed directly onto the surface of the airframe, gives the best color making it more vivid than the transfers placed over clear doped airframe. I later remembered Freddie suggesting undercoating the transfer but did not think to do this in time. I can report that the lozenge looks much better with white undercoat. I also tried light gray but preferred the white as it made the colors stand put more.
3) wrinkles are kept to a minimum if you attach one side of the lozenge strip, for me it was the trailing edge, with a simple glue stick. This gave enough tack to pull the strip taut and then lay a coat of Minwax or dope under it. Then roll the strip down tight and most wrinkles disappear. I think the dope did a better job of pulling out the wrinkles over the Minwax, but the difference is pretty close. The transfer film, if you will, does not seem to shrink with heat gun or iron. I guess this is good since it does not distort the lozenge pattern. Downside is that some wrinkles were impossible to get rid of.
4) overlap. If you overlap portions of the lozenge you will end up with a much darker almost solid line where the two pieces cover each other. I'm planning to use this effect to simulate rib tape, an idea I saw in another build log.

Well, that's what I've learned so far. I'll try to upload pictures later.

Thank you Mike. That was great information and very through! Much appreciated!

Fred