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Old May 16, 2015, 09:47 AM
CerealKiller159 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterCATZ View Post
what’s actually physically smaller / lighter DPS-600PB or the dps-1200fb
so far they are the best options for charging up the capacitors I have found
The 1200fb is quite a bit smaller overall. It is much shorter in depth, a little shorter in height and a tad wider. It's also much more powerful and much quieter. I got a pair for $40.

The 600pb can be set to a bit higher voltage without excessive modding. Others say they can get up to 13.8v but mine could only reach 13.2v without being unstable. I really only picked up this unit because I got it for like $9.
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Old May 17, 2015, 01:43 AM
150 db is offline
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MasterCATZ

as for power supply....idk abt small ones. i use JD200 6800 model that makes 120amps 12v-15v for my use lol....but anyway
JW whats those caps uses for? are they maxwell? beacuse im here for audio use an they use maxwell 2.7v 3000F caps 6 in sereis to make a bank of 6 with max voltage of 16.2 but DC car batterys are 15.1 so there good. i kno
can you inbox me?
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Old May 18, 2015, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by xandrios View Post
Hey R.Gareau.

I can't see the rest of your PSU from the pics.
Does your DPS-660AB look similar to the DPS-600RB??

If so then check to see if any of the pins match up even before you try to power it up.
Plug your DPS-660AB into the wall and check to see if you get 5V from pin C3 and pin D3 as shown below.
You may get a blinking green light when AC input is present.
Pin B3 may be shorter than the rest.



Quote:
Originally Posted by R.Gareau View Post
I was wandering if anybody would have the pin out information on these power supplies

Delta Electronics DPS-660AB
Thanking you all in advance
after a bit of trial and error with the 660ab i finally got it to power on using pins a-2 and c-4 to ground and momentarily jumping a4 and b4, not sure if there is a better way but i only found out when my meter lead slipped out of the positive clip
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Old May 22, 2015, 09:55 AM
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Obsession, not a hobby
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DPS-1200FB Fan Control

My fans don't seem to increase soon enough or are not sensing temp as well as when they're in a rack.

Does anyone have numbers on how long it takes for the fans to come on or how much current is being put out for how long before the fans come on?

Besides a load between 33 and 36 to power on, does the rear card edge connector have fingers that control or effect the fan? Has anyone found a pinout diagram or figured out fan control on the HP DPS-1200FB supplies?
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Old May 22, 2015, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerobear View Post
Here is a summary of my DPS-1200FBA experiments so far. I'm very happy with my G3 version but this one us much smaller and attractive for a mobile charging station.

A bare bones 12V supply is very simple, needing only a single resistor soldered across two pads. 560 and 680 Ohms both worked. Output wires are easily solder on. It would be good to have some kind of cover to keep the pads from shorting accidentally. Search for DSW's posts for an idea (or a ready made unit). This thread has lots of good ideas for binding posts etc.

See post #2236 for info on floating the DC output.

The fans are very quiet at no load and not terrible at full speed. It takes quite a load and some time before the fan will speed up. With a 19A load it took about 15 minutes before the fan sped up and only to about half speed. A 68A load took 2 minutes to bring the fan to full speed. I could not maintain that load as the shrink tubing was melting off the deans connectors. There are two thermistors (at least) inside and it seems it takes some time for the heat to get to them. This G5 runs much warmer than the G3. If you plan to use this unit for high power use then it would be good to keep the AC supply on after the load is removed so the fan can stay running. The fan stays running fast for a while after a large load is removed. Killing the AC supply and fans may result in heat soaked components. Most RC chargers seem to ramp down their current toward the end of the charge rather than an abrupt cutoff, so probably OK there.

Strapping two units together resulted in one running warmer than the other and the fan coming on faster. The placement of the internal thermistors is the reason for this. I plan to keep an air gap between the two. Mine will eventually be side by side, flat on the bottom of a Harbor Freight case with about a 10mm gap all around. A push-pull fan system will keep cool air flowing past the units.

I never could find the current sense or current sense return points and so was not able to improve the output regulation like Xandrios did with the G3 version. The pics will show the voltage drop with increasing load. Regulation seems pretty good, I'm just use to seeing the rock solid G3. The Fluke meter shows voltage measured directly at the output. The Watts Up meter shows a lower voltage since it is losing a bit through the Deans and skinny 14g wire that comes supplied.
Did you happen to get a pic of the two thermistors on your 1200?
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Old Yesterday, 12:43 AM
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I purchased a pair of Dell 700 AB supplies for only 12.00 from Ebay. And I also got a couple of 4mm bullets, 3 pins connectors and heat shrink tubing for negative and positive color coding.

Whole thing cost me less than 20 dollar so far and now I am looking for a good size case to put both supplies in.

Attach is a photo how I put it all together.

Bill
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