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Old Sep 28, 2014, 02:08 PM
Registered User
Deer Park, Tx (East side of Houston)
Joined Oct 2009
152 Posts
Question
Cutting cowl for exhaust, cooling air, and mixture screw access on my 1st gasser?

OK, the instructions in my ARF leave a lot to the imagination or they assume you have the experience...I have neither...

I'm using a DLE35RA...

1. ) I assume you don't want to take the cowl off every time you want or need to adjust the mixture screws so I assume I need to cut a hole to access them through the cowl. I assume circular holes are less likely to crack from vibration and then I thought I'd pop a grommet in just to make for a neat, clean finish look, right?

2.) Is the plug a high maintenance item? ... To get enough cooling air flow and allow exhaust pipe to pass through cowl I cut a pretty darn big rectangular hole from just in front of exhaust almost back to the firewall again with radiused corners.

The cowl clears the plug wire but to maintenance the plug I would have to take the cowl off.

So what are all of ya'll doing? Should I cut the hole further forward were plug could be removed without removing cowl?
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Old Sep 28, 2014, 07:55 PM
The Prez....... again
kenh3497's Avatar
United States, IA, Rockwell
Joined Jul 2011
4,084 Posts
Sounds like you have a handle on things. A search here on RCG will/should net you a thread or two on cowl cutting for cooling and access for maintenance. The spark plug should not be a high maintenance item. If this were my airplane I would not cut the cowl for access. Others will argue the point, but using 3 times the exit area as compared to cooling inlet should net you a cool engine.

Ken
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Old Sep 29, 2014, 07:09 AM
Illegitimi non carborundum
grosbeak's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Mar 2011
1,257 Posts
If you plan to tune your engine while it's running I suggest using plastic push rod tubes to guide your screwdriver to the needle screw. Use some heat shrink to join them together at both ends and they'll stay put. Here's how I did it for the DA 50 on my SBach 342.







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Old Sep 29, 2014, 08:31 AM
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Jacksonville Fla.
Joined Mar 2007
2,214 Posts
Gassers don't need a lot of foolin with once the mixture is set. Spark plugs don't need to be changed often either.
I've got two horizontal opposed engines both DA one is a hundred the other a 170 neither has a hole in the cowl to change spark plugs
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Old Sep 29, 2014, 10:50 AM
NITRO !
Gary Cee's Avatar
United States, MI, Marysville
Joined Apr 2010
2,514 Posts
May not "need" adjustment often ...but having an easy access may allow for an
adjustment when/if needed doesn't hurt . Could stave off the temptation to run lean when a tweak is in order .
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Old Oct 01, 2014, 07:01 PM
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Deer Park, Tx (East side of Houston)
Joined Oct 2009
152 Posts
Thanks

This is excellent help, my thanks to all who take the time to read and post. I think I better add an access hole for screw driver...
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Old Oct 04, 2014, 11:59 AM
supreme being of leisure
ZAGNUT's Avatar
Tel Aviv, Israel
Joined Jul 2004
2,440 Posts
try removing the plug cap once it has been seated correctly and you'll see that the only real option for plug maintenance is to remove the cowl...
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Old Oct 07, 2014, 03:10 PM
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los36's Avatar
United States, TX, The Colony
Joined Nov 2012
374 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanWard View Post
This is excellent help, my thanks to all who take the time to read and post. I think I better add an access hole for screw driver...
Noticed you are in TX. The popular saying on the board is that gassers are set-and-forget. I've just gotten in to gas but almost all of the guys at my field have extensive experience with gas engines. In TX, the weather varies so much (temp and humidity), we rarely go more than two or three weekends without needing to make a small tweak here or there. You will want the access hole.
Spark plug caps will require the cowl to be removed. They are usually only removed when the engine starts running poorly and carb adjustments don't fix it. It's a 2nd or 3rd step on the diagnosis flow chart.
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