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Old Jul 10, 2014, 06:51 PM
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Build Log
RJM Systems Quicksilver wood fuse

This is a "retro" build of a wood fuse Quicksilver from laser cut sides, 1/64th doublers, and lite ply formers.
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Last edited by TomFlyer; Jul 11, 2014 at 01:02 AM.
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Old Jul 10, 2014, 09:43 PM
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Next steps: Add the 1/4 triangle stock to the edges of the sides, flush with the top / bottom of the fuse. I used gap fill CA as it give a few seconds of working time and enough time so you do not get your fingers stuck to the wood. I started and stopped the triangle stock at the changes in side wall thickness. The formers need a little sanding to fit and to remove the laser cutting flash.
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Last edited by TomFlyer; Jul 11, 2014 at 01:14 AM.
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Old Jul 10, 2014, 10:52 PM
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I sense a Quicksilver resurgence...I have two (one wood, on FG), plus a short kit, plus a set of plans.
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Old Jul 11, 2014, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slopemeno View Post
I sense a Quicksilver resurgence...I have two (one wood, on FG), plus a short kit, plus a set of plans.
And a new set of RG14 cores
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Old Jul 11, 2014, 01:20 AM
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The triangle stock needs to run past the end of the angled back of the fuse so it can be sanded at the correct angle.
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Old Jul 11, 2014, 01:24 AM
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Got 'em!
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Old Jul 11, 2014, 11:54 AM
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Nose former added on a simple home made "jig" . This is the time to get the fuse symmetrical.
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Last edited by TomFlyer; Jul 12, 2014 at 02:39 AM. Reason: Added pictures
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Old Jul 12, 2014, 02:38 AM
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progress

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomFlyer View Post
Nose former added on a simple home made "jig" . This is the time to get the fuse symmetrical.
Nothing fancy here.
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Old Jul 13, 2014, 03:24 PM
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Quicksilver tail group

While the fuse side reinforcements are drying, I started on the fin and stabilizer. Both are 1/8 inch thick Balsa with a 1/8 x 1/8 basswood LE.
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Last edited by TomFlyer; Jul 13, 2014 at 03:43 PM. Reason: more pictures
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Old Jul 13, 2014, 03:32 PM
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More Fuse work

The order of balsa from National Balsa came with 1/8" light ply to protect the balsa sheets that I ordered. It did the job as the box had signs of being beat up but the balsa in side was fine. Anyway, the light ply is perfect for the bottom of the fuse from in front of the wing to the nose. This replaces the recommended 1/64 ply covered with 1/8" balsa. BUT the light ply is not as flexible as the balsa, so I utilized some old build method to bend the light-ply. I soaked it in Ammonia but in a sandwich bag to avoid the fumes. The Ammonia penetrates but then evaporates faster than water, which can also be used.
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Last edited by TomFlyer; Jul 14, 2014 at 08:49 AM.
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Old Jul 13, 2014, 07:19 PM
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Elevator modification

Stock split elevator needs a torque rod to function. Since I am making the tail group removable for travel, the fin and stab and elevator will be all one unit. The continuous elevator needs to have the center section filled in. I did this with a piece of 1/8" balsa to match the two sides. I glued a strip of 1`/64 ply to one side full length and then sanded the balsa down to the 1/64 ply at the back edge.
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Old Jul 14, 2014, 08:45 AM
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Fuse almost done

Glued on the light ply with 5 minute epoxy and the 1/8" sheeting with gap filling CA. A new trick for me: When applying the gap filling CA to one surface, do it in a zigzag line and then use the side of the CA application neck to spread out the CA so you have 100% coverage.
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Last edited by TomFlyer; Jul 17, 2014 at 04:20 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jul 20, 2014, 05:58 PM
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Nose Block

For the nose block I used a piece of Doug Fir 2x4 that had been sitting around in my shop for a year or two, so it was dried out.
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 12:54 AM
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Now the question becomes, how do I finish a balsa fuse
1. Sandable Primer epoxy paint, then a final coat?
2. Cover the balsa with an iron on covering? (seam )
3. Cover the balsa with clear laminating film and paint that? (seams )
4, Cover with SolorTex iron on and paint that ? (seams )
5. Fiberglass sleeve and epoxy and use shrink tube for a smooth finish

Since I want the fin and stabilizer to be removable, maybe a combination of #1 with a removable fiberglass sleeve made over the last 6 to 8 inches of the fuse for the tail feathers to attach to? That should work?
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