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Old Apr 07, 2012, 01:38 PM
RC Reviews & Tx Setup Guides
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benboy207 View Post
Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear. I need to know which way the red and copper wires connect to the red and blue tail motor wires. I'm assuming its red to red, but I want to make sure.

Ben
No problem.
Your correct, red to red and copper color to blue.

Tom
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 01:47 PM
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Well after waiting one month I finally recieved these batteries http://www.aliexpress.com/product-gs...olesalers.html. These are the wk017 350mah h25c batteries.

I bought 10 total but one lipo was under voltage meaning that my charger would not charge it. I hooked it up to my parallel cable with 4 other lipos and the voltages averaged out to 3.76. This set of batteries only charged to 4.16 and took 55min, so I then charged it again to 4.18. I think that first battery might be bad but not sure yet. My second set of five batteries were stored at 3.8 and charged to 4.18 in about 35 or 40min. They were all charged at 1c.

So far I'm getting around 6-7min flight time with genius main motor and stock mini cp main gear. I've only flown indoors this weekend as it's too windy here. The lipos weighed 10.2g. I also ordered a c05m so hoping to get somewhere around the same flight time.
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 02:51 PM
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look what i got in the mail today!
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 03:00 PM
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Jeez, the power from that C05xl will probably be unnecessarily ridiculous
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 03:09 PM
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As if that ever stopped anyone before
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 03:34 PM
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yeah and it's only 6.8g. width is about 0.10mm smaller than c05. might try a 9T or 10T and see if it doesn't rip my head or tail off
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 05:00 PM
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I had heard power levels were not that good with the c05xl, hopefully you get decent power.


Peteair, you should of gone with these! http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm...olesalers.html 5 for 20$ shipped. The reason i say those is because "I havent had much luck with the Walkera 350mah 25c battery that comes with the double brushless. it was great at first but now doesnt charge to its fullest compared to rcecho/ebay 350mah 20c, and now my zippy 350 20c. My stock mini 240mah 25c is the best battery I have though. I was really happy about having the 350mah 25c battery but it isnt performing all that great now. Thats only after about 15 cylcles. I had read a few people felt that way too
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 06:33 PM
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I found this stuff from a chinese website. This is all about the little screw on the Mini's rx!

The following is the younger brother a little parties finishing touch for your reference and choice!
<1> about 1 to 2 o'clock direction = slippery feel, but also quite stable. (For the master the rippling soared machine mode)
<2> about 3 to 4 o'clock = flybar feel more hammer-like feel, close to the G-CP feel than its more stable and not easy to drift machine. (For advanced novice & veteran mode)
<3> about 5 to 6 o'clock = with a hammer-like feel, flying fairway and novice learning to practice flying OK, very stable. (Suitable for novice-level learning to fly mode)
<4> about 7 to 8 o'clock = ibid those who feel, super-stable flight is only suitable for flying fairway, but the wind to spin shaking paddle. (Only suitable for indoor flying the fairway mode)
<5> about 9 to 10 o'clock = also regarded as on the handle, but heavy hammer feeling more intense other Ibid. (Only suitable for indoor flying the fairway mode)
<6> the remaining 11 to the 12 o'clock direction ibid.

i just tried flying it at the 6 oclock (the flat part of the screw) and its crazy with mannys settings. My stock mini was 12 oclock , the flat part was. The 3 oclock was slow as the 1/2 was too. i am liking mine at the 10/11 The 9 is intense too.
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mescalinedream View Post
I had heard power levels were not that good with the c05xl, hopefully you get decent power.
just tried it. has tons of power.. A LOT more than the co5m. in fact, so much the tail blows out more. it uses a tad more battery than the c05m but not by much. eg: after flying 5 minutes with c05m my battery (350mah zippy) are 3.79v, with c05xl same flight time = 3.74v.

i need to extend my boom for sure.. also noticed a little more vibrations which is probably due to the increase in head speed, i need to balance the blades and fine-tune head tracking. i only tried 8T, head speed will probably be nuts with 9T.. i know smaller pinion = less head speed but more torque while larger pinion = more speed but less torque.. so my understanding is i'll get less blowout with a larger pinion. correct me if wrong..
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 09:42 PM
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Mini's RX Pot

Quote:
Originally Posted by mescalinedream View Post
I found this stuff from a chinese website. This is all about the little screw on the Mini's rx!

The following is the younger brother a little parties finishing touch for your reference and choice!
<1> about 1 to 2 o'clock direction = slippery feel, but also quite stable. (For the master the rippling soared machine mode)
<2> about 3 to 4 o'clock = flybar feel more hammer-like feel, close to the G-CP feel than its more stable and not easy to drift machine. (For advanced novice & veteran mode)
<3> about 5 to 6 o'clock = with a hammer-like feel, flying fairway and novice learning to practice flying OK, very stable. (Suitable for novice-level learning to fly mode)
<4> about 7 to 8 o'clock = ibid those who feel, super-stable flight is only suitable for flying fairway, but the wind to spin shaking paddle. (Only suitable for indoor flying the fairway mode)
<5> about 9 to 10 o'clock = also regarded as on the handle, but heavy hammer feeling more intense other Ibid. (Only suitable for indoor flying the fairway mode)
<6> the remaining 11 to the 12 o'clock direction ibid.

i just tried flying it at the 6 oclock (the flat part of the screw) and its crazy with mannys settings. My stock mini was 12 oclock , the flat part was. The 3 oclock was slow as the 1/2 was too. i am liking mine at the 10/11 The 9 is intense too.
The Mini RX's Pot is "marked" differently from all the other Walkera RX Pots I've seen before. All my other Walkera RX Pots are "marked" at the location of the Pot's wiper; however, the Mini is "marked" by a flat spot on the opposite side of the Pot's wiper.

If a person takes a very close look at the Mini's RX Pot, they'll see a dark/black resistive pad is exposed underneath the metal "tweaking" cover. The Pot's dark/black resistive pad almost makes a complete circle. When viewed from the front, with the Mini resting upright on its Landing Skid, and 12 O'Clock as high, the Pot's dark/black resistive pad only exists from 1 through 11 O'Clock, and no resistive pad exists between 11 and 1 O'Clock. Also notice the Pot's "Wiper" arm (the part that actually makes electrical contact with the dark/black resistive pad) is located directly 180* opposite from the Metal's "flat" spot.

Because of how the Mini's RX Pot is constructed, IMO using the Metal's flat spot as a "direct" position indicator will give a "false" sense of where the "Wiper" is. IMO, the actual location of the "Wiper" (180* away from Metal's Flat), is a better way to describe where it is positioned. Using the "Wiper" as the Pot's position "indicator" when the "Wiper" is at 1 O'Clock (Metal's Flat is at 7 O'Clock), the Pot is adjusted to MIN setting (i.e. most CCW position), and when the "Wiper" is at 11 O'Clock (Metal's Flat is at 5 O'Clock), the Pot is adjusted to MAX setting (i.e. most CW position).

I don't think the Mini's RX Pot is designed to have its "Wiper" adjusted past and in between the 11 to 1 O'Clock area (Metal's Flat should not be between 5 and 7 O'Clock). In other words, the Wiper should only be rotated back and forth between 1 through 11 O'Clock, not past 11 O'Clock, or before 1 O'Clock. I say this, because if I'm careful and pay attention watching the Wiper's location as I turn it, I will feel a "detent" at each CCW/MIN and CW/MAX extreme end of the resistive pad. I'm guessing many unaware owners (gorillas? ) may have already tweaked/forced their Pot's Wipers past the extreme CCW/MIN and CW/MAX detents on to the un-resistive "zone", and the Pot may still work once the Wiper is forced back on to the resistive pad, but I wouldn't try making a habit of forcing the Wiper over the CCW/MIN and CW/MAX "detents", because it may cause the wiper to prematurely wear and over time result in it no longer being able to make good electrical contact with the resistive pad?

Also, there seems to be some confusion as to what the Mini's RX Pot does? The Mini's Owner Manual states the Pot is to adjust the AIL/EL Gyro Sensitivity. Just like all my other FBL Walkera micro helis, my Mini came with its Pot at "MID" position (i.e. Wiper at 6 O'Clock, Metal's Flat at 12 O'Clock), and just like all my other FBL Walkera micro heli's, I thought it was too unresponsive to AIL and EL TX stick movements, so I tweaked the Pot more CCW to make the heli more agile. Right now I have my Pot set to MAX CCW (i.e. Wiper at 1 O'Clock, Metal Flat at 7 O'Clock). I believe the more CCW the Wiper, the better the Mini will be able to change directions, and the more CW the Wiper the more the Mini will be on "auto-pilot" and want to resist changing its existing movement from its "past" direction heading and/or speed.
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Last edited by i812; Apr 08, 2012 at 02:09 AM. Reason: grammar and clarification
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 09:51 PM
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My mini cp drifts right, even when I adjust the swash quite a bit to the left. Is this common?

ben
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 11:24 PM
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AIL & EL drift

Mine drifts a few feet per second in one direction or the other; however, if I give it the tiniest TX stick "nudge" (or Trim) in the opposite direction, then it will drift in the other direction, so as best as I can figure out, even after numerous crashes mine has always been able to automatically "zero" itself into a level hover without requiring any Servo Arm, Link, Trim, and/or SubTrim adjustments, and the small drift of a few feet per second is just the nature of the "beast".

Are you stating you're unable to make the drift change direction by using either TX Trim and/or AIL/EL Stick movement?

Have you verified the Mini's CoG is along the Main Shaft in both the AIL and EL directions? Mine is still stock configuration, and I've verified the AIL CoG is OK; however, noticed that the EL CoG can easily be changed a large amount by LiPo positioning. If you've modified yours, and are using heavier/lighter Motor (or anything else), then that also may be skewing the CoG?

Also, I haven't completely understood how the Walkera FBL AIL/EL Gyro stabilization functions; however, I'm fairly certain they have a "memory" of what "zero" is. If so, and maybe if the heli is binded/initialized from a "skewed" angle such as on one side of a sloped "hill" and/or bent Landing Skid, then maybe once binding/initialization is complete the Gyro's will determine the "skewed" tilt as the "zero" and try to maintain the Swash in that "skewed" position, regardless of how the Servo's and/or Links are adjusted? After numerous crashes, out of curiosity, I've inspected the "squareness"/plumbness of my Landing Skid by placing the heli on a horizontally "plumb" surface, and verifying the Main Gear is also parallel with a horizontal plumb surface, and so far as close as I can tell the Landing Skid appears to still be "square" (i.e. the Main Gear is horizontally level, and Main Shaft is vertically plumb when the Landing Skid is placed and the Mini takes off from a horizontally level surface).

BTW, my stock Mini will only hands off hover from the center of my draft free living room before reaching one of the walls about 10 feet away within about 5 seconds.
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Last edited by i812; Apr 08, 2012 at 01:43 PM. Reason: grammar and clarification
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 01:39 AM
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? How to seperate plastic and CF parts bonded by CA, without damaging?

Is there something that dissolves/loosens CA, but not effect plastic or CF?

I've used CA to re-attach a broken piece of Canopy Post and Servo Holder back on to their mating parts, and the repair doesn't hold as well as I'd like it to, so I'd like to redo the repair using an unbroken full length Canopy Post (1 mm CF Rod); however, now that I've used CA at the broken end of the original Canopy Post, I'm unable to remove it out of the Servo Holder any more. Only the very end of it is CA'ed inside the Servo Holder. Any suggestions on how to get the CA'ed broken Canopy Post out, so I can get a full length new one in?
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 01:50 AM
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heat works.. try a blow/hair drier, a heat gun will work but obviously be careful as too hot can deform/melt plastic.
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 08:53 AM
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I812, I was a gorilla yesterday with the minis rx screw. I spun it 1 1/2 turns thinking it would stop. I didn't feel the indentation while turning it slowly.

Is it possible to list your radio settings? I could barely control the heli with the flat part at the 6 o'clock setting. I am using Mannys settings which are extreme. I barely touched the aileron stick and the heli jerked in that direction. I am so glad I found that article about the screw. Adjusting it for indoor flight is quick. With extreme settings this heli is a handful.

Makes you wonder about all those newbies who messed with the screw without knowing what it does. They are either flying a very lethargic heli or an almost uncontrollable one without knowing why. I wish i knew how to read Chinese because the site I had found had lots of info. I will post the link if I can find it.
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